Reccomendations for Speaker Wires

Drunkcaballo
Drunkcaballo Posts: 24
Alright I just upgraded from my LSi9s to some B&W 805Ds for my 2 channel system. The next upgrade for them is some real speaker cables. Right now I am just using spooled Monster XP wire. I have been looking at some of the Transparent products, but am unfamiliar with what else is out there at similar quality levels. I have heard some transparent cables on these same type of speakers and they really open up with them, so I am already leaning towards them. I plan to buy used from Audiogon. Would be willing to spend somewhere in the $1500-2500 range. Also is there any good source for individual wires? My AV rack is in the corner, so my speakers are not equally spaced from the rack so I will need a ~8 foot cable and a ~20 foot cable.

Home Theater
RTi A7: Front Channels
CSi A6: Center Channel
FXi A6: 4 Surround speakers
JL Audio Fathom 212 Sub
Onkyo 706: Receiver/Pre-Amp
XPA-3: Front Channel Amp
Samsung 50" Plasma: PN50A450
Samsung Blu-Ray

2 Channel
Pre-Amp: Rogue Magnum 99
Amp: B&K Reference 200.2
B&W 805D
DSW Pro 400 Sub
Pro-Ject RPM 1.3 Genie Record Player

Pictures: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=94116
Post edited by Drunkcaballo on
«1

Comments

  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,201
    edited February 2011
    I suggest a nice pair of Kimber Kable 8tc's, replace all Interconnects with Hero's and call it a day.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited February 2011
    With that budget I would go with revelation audio labs Testament Cryo-Silver™ Reference Loudspeaker cables.(My next upgrade)...Maybe not the best choice though since you want different lenghts for each speaker.Check out audiogon for some of those 8tc's.You cant go wrong with those.

    link to the testaments. http://revelationaudiolabs.com/cables-loudspeaker/index.htm
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited February 2011
    I would run two equal length runs and loop back the shorter run.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,717
    edited February 2011
    MIT Shotgun's. Contact Joe Abrams on Audiogon.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • crazytasty
    crazytasty Posts: 18
    edited February 2011
    How much of a difference do speaker cables make? I had a very nice system using regular 12-gauge speaker cable and it sounded fantastic to my ears, what are the benefits of more expensive speaker cable?
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited February 2011
    crazytasty wrote: »
    How much of a difference do speaker cables make? I had a very nice system using regular 12-gauge speaker cable and it sounded fantastic to my ears, what are the benefits of more expensive speaker cable?

    They look pretty.
  • janmike
    janmike Posts: 6,146
    edited February 2011
    I second the MIT option.
    Michael ;)
    In the beginning, all knowledge was new!

    NORTH of 60°
  • acmf74
    acmf74 Posts: 936
    edited February 2011
    WilliamM2 wrote: »
    They look pretty.

    :biggrin:
  • polkfarmboy
    polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
    edited February 2011
    Alright I just upgraded from my LSi9s to some B&W 805Ds for my 2 channel system. The next upgrade for them is some real speaker cables. Right now I am just using spooled Monster XP wire. I have been looking at some of the Transparent products, but am unfamiliar with what else is out there at similar quality levels. I have heard some transparent cables on these same type of speakers and they really open up with them, so I am already leaning towards them. I plan to buy used from Audiogon. Would be willing to spend somewhere in the $1500-2500 range. Also is there any good source for individual wires? My AV rack is in the corner, so my speakers are not equally spaced from the rack so I will need a ~8 foot cable and a ~20 foot cable.

    Thats alot of money for cables budd

    I would put the cash to somthing in the amp department for the biggest sonic improvement

    Why not go with nordost cables, they have really good reviews in the cheaper lines they reproduce like the blue heaven
  • jcandy
    jcandy Posts: 501
    edited February 2011
    WilliamM2 wrote: »
    They look pretty.
    LOL!

    Seriously, how about these for longer runs:

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=109-062

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-025

    and this for shorter runs:

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-021

    Put the money saved into better speakers and/or a microphone plus measurement software to optimize your in-room response.
  • Mr Glide
    Mr Glide Posts: 29
    edited February 2011
    jcandy wrote: »
    LOL!

    Seriously, how about these for longer runs:

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=109-062

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-025

    and this for shorter runs:

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-021

    Put the money saved into better speakers and/or a microphone plus measurement software to optimize your in-room response.

    JCandy, I am with you. btw, could you recommend some names of software products to measure and optimize in-room response? Thanks.
  • jcandy
    jcandy Posts: 501
    edited February 2011
    Mr Glide wrote: »
    JCandy, I am with you. btw, could you recommend some names of software products to measure and optimize in-room response? Thanks.
    A very popular (free) package is Room Equalization Wizard (REW):

    http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

    You'll also need a (calibrated) microphone, mixer, sound card, etc. A good description of the hardware requirements is here:

    http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/42829-current-rew5-hardware-recommendation.html
  • Mr Glide
    Mr Glide Posts: 29
    edited February 2011
    jcandy wrote: »
    A very popular (free) package is Room Equalization Wizard (REW):

    http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/

    You'll also need a (calibrated) microphone, mixer, sound card, etc. A good description of the hardware requirements is here:

    http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/42829-current-rew5-hardware-recommendation.html

    wow, whole new adventure in sound tuning! Thanks for the info. Wish some expert here creates cheat sheet or so explaining how to do this without spending much time. Will look into it.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited February 2011
    An SPL meter and a tape measure is all you need to set levels and delays. There is a steep learning curve and a fair amount of money needed to be spent to use REW(which I have used) REW is better suited to designing speakers. Take some pictures and post them. The guys here can help you out with speaker placement. Also move your sub around if you can for best sound.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Drunkcaballo
    Drunkcaballo Posts: 24
    edited February 2011
    Thanks for all the recommendations everybody. Creating a nice long list for me to research...and yes an amp upgrade is in the not so distant future once the cables and sub are upgraded....

    Home Theater
    RTi A7: Front Channels
    CSi A6: Center Channel
    FXi A6: 4 Surround speakers
    JL Audio Fathom 212 Sub
    Onkyo 706: Receiver/Pre-Amp
    XPA-3: Front Channel Amp
    Samsung 50" Plasma: PN50A450
    Samsung Blu-Ray

    2 Channel
    Pre-Amp: Rogue Magnum 99
    Amp: B&K Reference 200.2
    B&W 805D
    DSW Pro 400 Sub
    Pro-Ject RPM 1.3 Genie Record Player

    Pictures: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=94116
  • Mr Glide
    Mr Glide Posts: 29
    edited February 2011
    ben62670 wrote: »
    An SPL meter and a tape measure is all you need to set levels and delays. There is a steep learning curve and a fair amount of money needed to be spent to use REW(which I have used) REW is better suited to designing speakers. Take some pictures and post them. The guys here can help you out with speaker placement. Also move your sub around if you can for best sound.

    Sounds good. Will do it once things (setup) settles down. Thanks.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited February 2011
    Parts express has an SPL meter for around $20 if you need one.
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=390-722
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • On3s&Z3r0s
    On3s&Z3r0s Posts: 1,013
    edited February 2011
    jcandy wrote: »
    LOL!

    Seriously, how about these for longer runs:

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=109-062

    ...

    I bought some of this when PE was blowing it out even cheaper than they have it now. It's not good cable in my opinion. For the price it's ok, but for some bizarre reason they put a non-conductive polyester core in the middle of the copper wire. I assume it's for marketing reasons (makes the cable appear to be a lower gauge than it really is) and they try to spin some crap about the polyester is a dielectric that improves the signal? Doubt it. It just makes the cable a pain to work with.
  • stillen
    stillen Posts: 43
    edited February 2011
    For speaker cables look at Kimber 8pr and use there SBAN connectors and buy from audioadvisor.
    Interconect maybe Kimber Hero hb.
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited February 2011
    Take that $1500 and get some room treatments. Foam by Mail is a great place to source from if you are into a bit of DIY panels.
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited February 2011
    Keiko wrote: »

    In case you missed it, the OP is looking for cable upgrades.

    I'm in with the MIT camp. Good luck and welcome to CP, Drunkcaballo.

    I know he is asking about cable upgrades. You better tell Ben that also. I mean what the hell is he doing recommending getting a tape measure and SPL meter:rolleyes:

    Mr Glide and Jcandy obviously don't under stand either. Better get on them.

    Don't forget Polkfarmboy, he recommended an amp. Try not to be so selective.

    Now if you are done derailing the thread...
  • jcandy
    jcandy Posts: 501
    edited February 2011
    Keiko wrote: »
    I'll decline to challenge this load of bs. That's your MO, but by all means, continue on with your hissy fit. :wink:
    Why are so many of the "regulars" on this forum so consistently rude? What purpose does it serve?
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited February 2011
    I have used the AQ 14/2 wire. Very nice sounding considering how cheap it is.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • jcandy
    jcandy Posts: 501
    edited February 2011
    On3s&Z3r0s wrote: »
    I bought some of this when PE was blowing it out even cheaper than they have it now. It's not good cable in my opinion. For the price it's ok, but for some bizarre reason they put a non-conductive polyester core in the middle of the copper wire. I assume it's for marketing reasons (makes the cable appear to be a lower gauge than it really is) and they try to spin some crap about the polyester is a dielectric that improves the signal? Doubt it. It just makes the cable a pain to work with.
    Its definitely not easy to work with. Honestly, despite the fact that this wire is very cost effective and more than adequate for most any home audio application, I am nevertheless moving to the use of North American and European products as much as possible.

    Is there a preferred US/Canadian/European brand of wire that is cost-effective?
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited February 2011
    jcandy wrote: »
    Why are so many of the "regulars" on this forum so consistently rude? What purpose does it serve?

    Probably because we all have nothing better to do than write endless posts in one audio company's forums... :biggrin:
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

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    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

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  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,604
    edited February 2011
    jcandy wrote: »
    Why are so many of the "regulars" on this forum so consistently rude? What purpose does it serve?

    Where have you been? The facts that Juju is always out to stir the pot around here. And the fact that the admin/mods have not banned him yet somehow escape you? :rolleyes:
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • Mr Glide
    Mr Glide Posts: 29
    edited February 2011
    jinjuku wrote: »
    I know he is asking about cable upgrades. You better tell Ben that also. I mean what the hell is he doing recommending getting a tape measure and SPL meter:rolleyes:

    Mr Glide and Jcandy obviously don't under stand either. Better get on them.

    Don't forget Polkfarmboy, he recommended an amp. Try not to be so selective.

    Now if you are done derailing the thread...

    Jinjuku, I am in NO shape to claim to be audio expert, hence, I am here to get advise from seniors/old timers such as you and others (for audio only though - if you want to discuss software design principles, proj. mgmt methodologies- the bet is on!) It's free country to express opinions, though politely!:smile:
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2011
    jinjuku wrote: »
    Take that $1500 and get some room treatments. Foam by Mail is a great place to source from if you are into a bit of DIY panels.

    As usual, more awful advice from you.

    http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass-traps-acoustic-panels-foam-etc/347215-foam-factory-foam-mail-dilemma.html

    http://supersoundproofing.com/forum/index.php?topic=2278.0
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited February 2011
    if you budget does not allow for the newer MIT's,, try some MIT Terminator 2 with the grey color boxes.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited February 2011
    Face wrote: »

    You better run and tell Jim Holtz and Curt Campbell:rolleyes:

    To the OP: if you don't know who those two guys are google them.

    Foam by mail is one of many places. If you don't mind working with OC 703 it is a good way to build bass traps with. For higher frequency traps you simply don't need a ton of dampening.

    Don't even know if you need traps. That's why Ben's suggestion is the first thing to do. Have to find out what the room looks like to your speakers first before you take any extra measures.