Cloth for waxing?

audiobliss

I cleaned up my car yesterday. Spent about four hours between washing it, drying it off, vacuuming it out, wiping down the dash and center console, waxing it, and cleaning the windows. I've always used a paste wax and done it by hand, and I have no desire to change that. However, I was reminded of something yesterday that always bugs me. After I let the wax set for a few minutes to haze and then start to buff it off, the wax grabs my microfiber cloth that I have folded up into fourths, making it hard to buff it off and unfolding it at the same time. I find that incredibly annoying. If it weren't for that, it's really a pleasant experience that I enjoy.

Could this be due to the type of towel I'm using? Would a different towel be better? What about a nicer microfiber? These were pretty cheap at walmart if I remember correctly.

Just for reference I've been using Turtle Wax Ice paste for the last while now.

Jstas

I've always used just old but cleaned cotton T-shirts or other cotton rags. Never saw the sense in microfiber when it doesn't really get you much.

Now I use a random orbit buffer. I apply the wax by hand with a hand sponge and then it gets taken off with a terry cloth pad and buffed out with a foam buffing pad.

The 4 hours of waxing time gets old after a while. The buffer brings it down to about an hour to an hour and a half.

exalted512

I use these:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=42
-Cody

treitz3

From the link above....

"They work on this unique principal: Within every pad, are a series of metal spikes. When the pad is worn out, the foam breaks down, then the metal spines penetrate the cloth, and leave a visual indication on your vehicle, so you know when it's time to replace the pad!"

:eek:

They may want to reword that a tad....

Sherardp

I use both botton Tshirts and Micofibers. I understand your pain, that wax gives you a good workout for sure. Zaino is alot easier to work with so I've made the switch.

Jstas

treitz3 wrote: »

From the link above....

"They work on this unique principal: Within every pad, are a series of metal spikes. When the pad is worn out, the foam breaks down, then the metal spines penetrate the cloth, and leave a visual indication on your vehicle, so you know when it's time to replace the pad!"

:eek:

They may want to reword that a tad....

Ummm...you do realize that that site is fake and satirical, right?

I'm hoping Cody does too.

treitz3

Um......yeah, *clears throat* Of course...

thsmith

ALWAYS use a towel that says made in USA. Only way to make sure it is 100% cotten.

Purist will use only white.

I find it best to knock the heavy stuff off first and then come back with a clean towel to get the final layer of wax off.

Here is a great link.

http://www.waxdepot.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WD&Category_Code=K

exalted512

Jstas wrote: »

Ummm...you do realize that that site is fake and satirical, right?

I'm hoping Cody does too.

No buddy, the o-pipe is real!
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2
-Cody

Earthy

That KaleCo site is a hoot. Great pricing on blinker fluid.

audiobliss

Thanks for the input, folks. Appreciate it. I think I'll cut up an old cotton tshirt for next time. Front side for removing hazed wax, then the back half for buffing it smooth.

I've also been looking online for the Original California Water Blade to help dry it off, as a friend has one and it works wonderfully! I can't seem to find the original one with the t-blade. Looks like this new one with a supposed 'v-edge' is what's currently available. Might grab that from amazon here soon.

exalted512 wrote: »

I use these:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=42
-Cody

I had forgotten all about that site! Hilarious stuff! You think they really sell the t-shirts they have on their site? There's one on there a friend would LOVE to have.

thsmith wrote: »

ALWAYS use a towel that says made in USA. Only way to make sure it is 100% cotten.

Purist will use only white.

I find it best to knock the heavy stuff off first and then come back with a clean towel to get the final layer of wax off.

Here is a great link.

http://www.waxdepot.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=WD&Category_Code=K

Thanks for the info and the link. Assuming it's a reputable site, I definitely learned quite a bit. I've never used a true 'polish' before. Will have to look at them at Walmart next time I'm there. I have a clay bar kit that I used, only once, and I'm pretty sure I didn't have enough motivation to do the whole car. I have used (and did just yesterday) some Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound on really stubborn or rough spots, or where paint from something else has gotten rubbed onto my car.

blueboxer

I agree on the 100% cotton made in the USA or a microfiber towel. Turtle Wax paste is a pain to remove, the only thing harder is maybe Collinite, which is a great wax. Zymbol, Menzerna FMJ, or P21S are much easier to apply, remove, and leave a better finish IMO. If you want to stick with Turtle Wax, you can use a detail spray as you remove it. Just mist the paint surface with the wax still on it and it will decrease the amount of elbow grease required.

VR3

Get zaino and you won't have that problem

Fongolio

I've always used soft cotten baby receiving blankets and brand new cotton diapers. For drying after wash and removing wax.

Sherardp

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

Get zaino and you won't have that problem

Some of the best wax out there. Zymbol is supposed to be good also. I'm a big fan of Zaino, the stuff does magic.

bsoko2

Used cotton baby diapers (washed first of course).

amulford

I use the kid up the street...

billbillw

Switch to Meguires or one of the 3M products if you want an easier time applying/removing. Turtle Wax has always been hard work to remove. I don't think it matters what type of towel/cloth you use. Spray will help though.

I think car detailing was a common activity this weekend around the South (since it was in the 70's both days). My shoulders are sore today from doing the same thing on my car Saturday and Sunday. Wash, clay bar, and a coat of 3M Performance Finish.

However, I need to get rid of some swirl marks and other paint defects. My new car is black and it really shows the flaws badly. So, I'm with Jstas and I will be buying a dual action orbital polisher to help me out. Probably the Porter Cable 7424XP. These 40 year old shoulders just can't do the heavy polishing.

Oh, and here is my new ride:






No more Mazdaspeed. Wife couldn't stand the car, and frankly, I was getting tired of it as well. To loud, to rough, too much torque steer. The dealer gave me an outstanding trade-in price so it was worth it. Its a one previous owner '07 C350 Sport with AMG package.

quadzilla

oh thank god... I thought this was going to be a thread about hair removal when I saw the title

mantis

Fongolio wrote: »

I've always used soft cotten baby receiving blankets and brand new cotton diapers. For drying after wash and removing wax.

I have also used these , they work very good. I made the switch to high quality Micro Fiber and have not looked back. I really like the way Microfiber works as I can use a signal Towel and "wax off" my entire truck with ease.

I use to be a Detailer way back in the day and have used many different kinds of wax. For home and professional use , these are the waxes that work best and are easy to remove.
Mothers Gold Pure Caranuba max with no cleaners. Excellent wax , stays on for weeks and is very easy to remove. This is a fantastic "home" wax.
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05550-05750.html
As a Professional I used 3M products for compounding , polishing and waxing. There products work very good and give a super clean finish. This wax was my favorite overall.
http://www.autogeek.net/3mpershowcar.html

One thing you gotta keep in mind , if your finish isn't perfect , wax tends to stick to it more making it harder to remove. Prep work makes all the difference in the world , removing contaminates before waxing. I suggest taking your car or truck to a professional detailer and let him do a full outside detail. This will remove all tar and road scum , compound off any oxidized paint and give you a very nice surface to work with. Once you have this glass type surface , waxing becomes very easy.
Also wax often , it makes a huge difference. During the spring summer and fall , I usually wax 5 to 6 times. Every few weeks I put on a fresh coat. It takes usually 15 to 20 minutes tops to do the entire truck. I own a Nissan Pathfinder.

Joe08867

My cars are a bit older now but I still like to get them as clean as I can.

The 00' Impala gets Mothers Wax and Detailing Sprays the 94' VW Golf gets Meguiars Cleaner Wax since it sees more highway miles and is a hard to clean white car.

Cotton Tee's or White Cotton Towels. Preferably s broken in towel as they seem to get wax off better IMHO.

Mike Reeter

billbillw,Nice lookin' Benz...Nothing more stunning than black...when it's clean...and has been recently waxed and detailed by hand...when I say recently,I mean a few seconds ago.

Black is beautiful,but what a PITA to keep it that way!!!

billbillw

Mike Reeter wrote: »

billbillw,Nice lookin' Benz...Nothing more stunning than black...when it's clean...and has been recently waxed and detailed by hand...when I say recently,I mean a few seconds ago.

Black is beautiful,but what a PITA to keep it that way!!!

Yeah, dust seems to be visible within about 5-10 minutes. I've always stayed away from black, but I couldn't resist when I saw this car. I hope I'm up to the challenge of keeping this one looking nice. Pollen season is going to be a headache.

Mike Reeter

Yea,been there...done that also,that's why our vehicles are white....but my motorcycle is black!! guess I'll never learn