RTI A7 Bi Amp Impedance / Resistance

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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
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    Dig it. Can you post some pics of what you have. Is it a sub-satellite system?
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited May 2016
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    I... ...don't... ...have them any more. Ozone ate the surrounds about 7-8 years ago. Further the company from whom I purchased the drivers & plans, while still in the retail business, stopped selling drivers, etc long before then. And as any DIYer knows, you build the closure around your goals & driver. Trying to match driver(s) to closure rarely works out.

    I so miss, w/NO EQ*, their ruler flat-to 20hz, 16hz w/a little "help*" before they BEGIN to roll off. And POWER?! Power that wouldn't quit regardless of system input. Oops forgot something else! Several years before their untimely deterioration I bought another amp of the same make model. That safely upped available power ~30-40% per driver. Impedance per channel changed to nominally 8ohms, low point 6 ohms, solving the WARM amp issue.

    Got married late in '93. Wife LOVED their sound. Not too crazy about their bulk. You fill in the rest. The Audio Pro won't go subterranean like the Earthquakes or keep up w/my system when I go all active. I see an SVS or HSU w/the 2016 refund.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
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    ???
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
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    Is the cabinet a band pass or 2nd order sealed-ported array?
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
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    BTW...my name is Russ. Let's dispense of the formalities.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    aahh... sealed? 1 driver's magnet about 3" from the floor, the other... ...well you know. Tall, square, low WAF
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
    edited May 2016
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    Is one of the drivers in sealed enclosure and the other in an opposing vented enclosure? There are many variables in the designs in isobaric sub cabs.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited May 2016
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    My recipee for these isobaric subs:
    Start w/a perfectly sealed 14" X 14" X ~42" (LWH) closure.
    Cut a 10-10.5" diameter opening in a small (14" X 14") baffle.
    Drill ~3/4" hole near one corner of top baffle
    Feed a 5'-6' wire through hole
    Solder wire to to driver's tabs
    Lower 12" driver into opening, cone up.
    Add an identical driver, cone down.
    Line up the (screw) holes of the two drivers with each other
    Drive 4-8 screws through the above holes till gasket compress slightly
    Solder ~5' wire to other driver's tabs
    Attach a 4" long leg to each corner around the driver
    Invert
    Connect lower driver wire to power amp taking care it's the same Polarity as other system speakers
    Connect upper driver wire to other channel (or same*), taking care polarity reversed from other driver
    (*Optional: repeat for a second sub to ensure higher output w/less distortion)
    Connect 80hz 4th order XO LP output to amp
    Power up your system
    Power up amp
    Adjust XO LP out for system tonal balance and Enjoy!

    Hope this paints the picture you

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
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    Tony, do you have this cabinet in your possession or are you looking to build two different cabinets. I really am trying to help, much against my past posts. But give be something to work with.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    After reading in this thread all the garbage going back and forth about bi-wiring and AVR bi-amping I thought I'd throw my bi-wire sub experience into the mix on hope some one might have an answer
    lightman1 wrote: »
    are you looking to build two different cabinets.
    I built two identical subs, completed in January 1991. About mid '91, I bi-wired them - you know the rest. Then...
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    I... ...don't... ...have them any more. Ozone ate the surrounds about 7-8 years ago. Further the company from whom I purchased the drivers & plans, while still in the retail business, stopped selling drivers, etc long before then.
    So I tossed them... ...sorry.

    Got to crash. Helping w/streaming my church's services early am tomorrow,, maybe we'll pick up in the pm.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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