RTI A7 Bi Amp Impedance / Resistance
Comments
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Dig it. Can you post some pics of what you have. Is it a sub-satellite system?
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I... ...don't... ...have them any more. Ozone ate the surrounds about 7-8 years ago. Further the company from whom I purchased the drivers & plans, while still in the retail business, stopped selling drivers, etc long before then. And as any DIYer knows, you build the closure around your goals & driver. Trying to match driver(s) to closure rarely works out.
I so miss, w/NO EQ*, their ruler flat-to 20hz, 16hz w/a little "help*" before they BEGIN to roll off. And POWER?! Power that wouldn't quit regardless of system input. Oops forgot something else! Several years before their untimely deterioration I bought another amp of the same make model. That safely upped available power ~30-40% per driver. Impedance per channel changed to nominally 8ohms, low point 6 ohms, solving the WARM amp issue.
Got married late in '93. Wife LOVED their sound. Not too crazy about their bulk. You fill in the rest. The Audio Pro won't go subterranean like the Earthquakes or keep up w/my system when I go all active. I see an SVS or HSU w/the 2016 refund.
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
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Is the cabinet a band pass or 2nd order sealed-ported array?
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BTW...my name is Russ. Let's dispense of the formalities.
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aahh... sealed? 1 driver's magnet about 3" from the floor, the other... ...well you know. Tall, square, low WAFSamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Is one of the drivers in sealed enclosure and the other in an opposing vented enclosure? There are many variables in the designs in isobaric sub cabs.
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My recipee for these isobaric subs:
Start w/a perfectly sealed 14" X 14" X ~42" (LWH) closure.
Cut a 10-10.5" diameter opening in a small (14" X 14") baffle.
Drill ~3/4" hole near one corner of top baffle
Feed a 5'-6' wire through hole
Solder wire to to driver's tabs
Lower 12" driver into opening, cone up.
Add an identical driver, cone down.
Line up the (screw) holes of the two drivers with each other
Drive 4-8 screws through the above holes till gasket compress slightly
Solder ~5' wire to other driver's tabs
Attach a 4" long leg to each corner around the driver
Invert
Connect lower driver wire to power amp taking care it's the same Polarity as other system speakers
Connect upper driver wire to other channel (or same*), taking care polarity reversed from other driver
(*Optional: repeat for a second sub to ensure higher output w/less distortion)
Connect 80hz 4th order XO LP output to amp
Power up your system
Power up amp
Adjust XO LP out for system tonal balance and Enjoy!
Hope this paints the picture you
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Tony, do you have this cabinet in your possession or are you looking to build two different cabinets. I really am trying to help, much against my past posts. But give be something to work with.
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After reading in this thread all the garbage going back and forth about bi-wiring and AVR bi-amping I thought I'd throw my bi-wire sub experience into the mix on hope some one might have an answerare you looking to build two different cabinets.I... ...don't... ...have them any more. Ozone ate the surrounds about 7-8 years ago. Further the company from whom I purchased the drivers & plans, while still in the retail business, stopped selling drivers, etc long before then.
Got to crash. Helping w/streaming my church's services early am tomorrow,, maybe we'll pick up in the pm.
TonySamsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s