Another set of SDA-SRS's

audio_alan
audio_alan Posts: 770
edited February 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Ok, so I "stumbled upon" (as if I wasn't looking) and bought another set of SDA-SRS's. From listening to both sets, they sound virtually identical, as you would hope and expect. At this point I can already hear everyone asking:

"Why the heck do you need/want/have 2 sets of those monsters?! Isn't one set enough?!"

... to which I answer: I don't have a wife, so I can :biggrin::wink:, and having a second set will allow me to mod one set, while keeping a true "original" to which I can compare the tweaks.

Now that I've explained the method of my madness, on to my question: In order to quickly A/B between the two sets, which of these three options would you choose?

1) Y-split the main pre-outs to two common ground power amps (preferrably of the same make/model), one amp to each set. Then I can turn amps on/off to do rapid comparisons.

2) Find a speaker switcher that can handle 300-400 watts running through it. (Do they exist with that much power handling? I've only seen ones that say 75 - 200 watts)

3) Crawl behind my setup and swap cables back and forth, so all pieces of the hardware are identical.

Other options or suggestions?

As always, thanks for your insights...
Post edited by audio_alan on
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Comments

  • analog97
    analog97 Posts: 328
    edited January 2011
    Excellent idea!! Perfect! No you are not mad. I would opt for any modification of #3. You should easily be able to take your time and draw valid conclusions. This is about as close to a perfect comparison as possible. Same room, same equipment, etc. Please post your resuslts. I assume you are going to do x-over mods?
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  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited January 2011
    Russound has some that handle that much power.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited January 2011
    I like the option where you ship them to me..jk...

    I would go with option 3 till you figure out which you like best...then decide if you want to move them around
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • intangible
    intangible Posts: 262
    edited January 2011
    Congrats on the new speakers. Option 3 is probably the best out of those, but the delay in switching will make it hard to AB. The best option would probably be to put a speaker selector in, allowing you rapid switching between the two while still driving both with identical gear.
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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    edited January 2011
    i have an adcom speaker switch. I have never used it but, I thought it handled 500 or 600 watts.

    When I get home, I will take a look at the model.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    edited January 2011
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&hash=item19c213297f&item=110630218111&nma=true&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&si=eVdIK3TlVqvTtWL1XNN1V4UC64g%253D#ht_500wt_1156


    gfs4 found it. Except the one i have is white.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
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  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited January 2011
    Stack 'em... :biggrin:
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited January 2011
    Tour2ma wrote: »
    Stack 'em... :biggrin:

    LOL...

    I saw where somebody stacked Klipsch KLF30's......I believe the owner said it was like being at a concert except it's in your living room.:tongue:
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    I appreciate the responses, guys. Yeah, I'm kind of leaning towards option #3 because it is the most "pure", but it's also the most time consuming in between auditions. I like the idea of pushing a button or flipping a switch and *bang*, I'm listening to the other version...

    Thanks to a couple of you guys for pointing out more power tolerant speaker switches. From the few searches I did, I couldn't find any over 200 watts. Going that route, I'm somewhat concerned that the switch would slightly degrade the sound, but I suppose it would slightly degrade the sound for both pairs of speakers...

    BTW, I thought you might like to see clothed and naked pictures of the twins! :biggrin:

    P.S. I think this setup officially (and permanently?!) makes me a bachelor. lol
    P.P.S. Oh, and EndersShadow - "Ship them to you"... hahaha, funny guy. :tongue:
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    Oh, and Tony, just in case you were wondering what SRS's would look like stacked. :biggrin: :rolleyes:

    Any volunteers to help me left them up on top of the other set for a real picture?
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2011
    http://www.cshunt.com/pdf/kpg9.pdf

    Get some "Frankenstein" knife switches, instant, hi amp A-B switching.:wink:
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    http://www.cshunt.com/pdf/kpg9.pdf

    Get some "Frankenstein" knife switches, instant, hi amp A-B switching.:wink:

    Haha But seriously, I wonder how well that could actually work? Possibly fairly well if the switch made a tight connection. And just think of the cool factor over a couple puny buttons too. :biggrin: But then again, that would create a monster, prompting me to build a device that could flicker the lights, play the sound of distant thunder and sends sparks shooting out of the switch.... It's alive! :rolleyes:
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2011
    You wanted a viable solution, you got one !:biggrin:
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2011
    There are smaller models made that would do just fine. 800amps is a little excessive, I'll admit.:biggrin:
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    You wanted a viable solution, you got one !:biggrin:

    Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Ok, you convinced me, I'll add "Frankenstein Switch" at Option #4. :biggrin: Now if only I can find a hunch-backed friend to throw the switch on command....

    Good thing I'm single, this would never pass the WAF.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited January 2011
    audio_alan wrote: »
    Oh, and Tony, just in case you were wondering what SRS's would look like stacked. :biggrin: :rolleyes:

    Any volunteers to help me left them up on top of the other set for a real picture?

    I have to admit I like the side-by-side look better. I've had a few hernia operations already and know I'd need another for sure after helping with that idea.:tongue:

    The top Klipschs were upside-down in his set-up. He had the total of four horns near ear level on each channel. I'll look for it now.
    I owned the KLF-20's and could only guess the hearing damage that could be had blasting four bigger ones in an enclosed room.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • kefranklin
    kefranklin Posts: 141
    edited January 2011
    I could not imagine stacked SRS or KLF-30. My old monitor 10Bs stacked is about all my house can take. It is not the ideal detup, but I had four monitors and not much room.
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  • grimmace19
    grimmace19 Posts: 1,429
    edited January 2011
    Alan, if you really want to stack them I will be on my way over shortly... as long as you help me move out of my apartment this weekend which requires 3 flights of stairs and a bunch of furniture.

    Looks great man, can't wait to come by and see/hear everything.
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  • civilian
    civilian Posts: 357
    edited January 2011
    Well God forbid I had no wife I would opt for the quad setup, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. If you were considering 2 amps you have got to be able to find a power amp with an A/B switch on it.
    ________________
    2 Channel-Denon AVR-4520/SDA 2.3TL's
    5.1-Denon AVR-4500h/RT3000P's/CS1000P/RT2000P's/
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    grimmace19 wrote: »
    Alan, if you really want to stack them I will be on my way over shortly... as long as you help me move out of my apartment this weekend which requires 3 flights of stairs and a bunch of furniture.

    Looks great man, can't wait to come by and see/hear everything.

    Nick - Nah, even though I *could* stack them, that would just be ridiculous - not to mention a liability! Side-by-side works for now, with one pair probably being relocated (or sold) at some time down the road after all of the mods have been completed.

    Back to the real question - Any other opinions on what the best way to A/B between the mod/original set would be? Would a speaker switch cause less of a signal degradation vs. having a Y-splitter to two separate power amps (each driving their own set)?
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  • wayne3burk
    wayne3burk Posts: 939
    edited January 2011
    i'd try the cheapest solution first...

    and whatever degradation you get from the Y splitter cables will be equal on both pairs of speakers... so the A/B comparison is still valid.

    i think

    -- wayne --
    Yamaha RX-V2700, EMI 711As (front), RCA K-16 (rear), Magnavox Console (Center & TV Stand), Sony SMP-N200 media streamer, Dual 1249 TT =--- Sharp Aquas 60" LCD tellie
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2011
    Two separate amps equals two separate systems and won't give a true A-B comparison. For all things to be the same, I'd suggest just quickly swapping nanner connections on the back of your speakers. Same amp/pre,source,cables,etc. only variable is the speakers.:wink:
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  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited January 2011
    audio_alan wrote: »
    Oh, and Tony, just in case you were wondering what SRS's would look like stacked. :biggrin: :rolleyes:
    LOL... That's not the official Polk SRS stack. The official method is invert the 2nd pair. Inverted you place the 2nd right-ch atop the bottom left-ch so the direct are all to the inside.Both these then get the left-ch feed. Vice versa for the right-ch... Mathew Polk actually did this at his house for a party...

    I'll be right over to help as soon as I get my new truss...

    As for the question.... I'd opt for the speaker switch. If you clean it up, degradation should be minimal and it makes swapping easy. You can pre-mod base-line test to be sure differences are insignificant...

    No matter what you do that the two pair cannot occupy the same space means some relative difference in the room responce to each pair is bound to be in play. Hopefully can minimize by setting up (from left to right):
    Lch1 - Lch2 ---- Rch1 - Rch2

    Even the baselining should be fun...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    Two separate amps equals two separate systems and won't give a true A-B comparison. For all things to be the same, I'd suggest just quickly swapping nanner connections on the back of your speakers. Same amp/pre,source,cables,etc. only variable is the speakers.:wink:

    True. Especially if I were to just get another used Adcom 555mkII (to match my current amp). There's probably a slim chance that their deviation from their brand new spec would be the same across amps.
    Tour2ma wrote: »
    LOL... That's not the official Polk SRS stack. The official method is invert the 2nd pair. Inverted you place the 2nd right-ch atop the bottom left-ch so the direct are all to the inside.Both these then get the left-ch feed. Vice versa for the right-ch... Mathew Polk actually did this at his house for a party...

    I'll be right over to help as soon as I get my new truss...

    As for the question.... I'd opt for the speaker switch. If you clean it up, degradation should be minimal and it makes swapping easy. You can pre-mod base-line test to be sure differences are insignificant...

    No matter what you do that the two pair cannot occupy the same space means some relative difference in the room responce to each pair is bound to be in play. Hopefully can minimize by setting up (from left to right):
    Lch1 - Lch2 ---- Rch1 - Rch2

    Even the baselining should be fun...

    Interesting tid-bit on Mathew Polk actually trying that.

    Good suggestion on the "Lch1 - Lch2 ---- Rch1 - Rch2". That should make them more "equal" by each set having one speaker closer to a wall and one speaker closer to the center. The only downside is the relative sweet spot for each set would be a couple feet to the L/R of each other. Even something as little as that could affect how I perceive reflections in the room. To be fair, I might need to A/B them as:

    Lch1 - Lch2 ---- Rch1 - Rch2

    ... and then swap them to:

    Lch2 - Lch1 ---- Rch2 - Rch1

    ... just to rule out any room anomalies.

    Optimally I should just move each set of speakers in/out of the room, but that sounds like a lot of work, and the time between auditions would be too long.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2011
    You really need a stage crew.:wink:
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  • evilgenius68
    evilgenius68 Posts: 23
    edited January 2011
    Take it from someone who had a pair yes I said A "pair" of Electro- Voice Georgian 400s in his apt...That two pairs of monoliths are every mans dream.lol...as far as switching?.Id go for the "Second amp" scenario.. I mean you do have to power them on their own at sometime why not now.?Id also like to add a picture of 4 in a room would do all our hearts good..Good luck!
    Read thspecs,

    read the reviews, do the research but most importantly...Listen and make your own decisions.
    Polk SDA 1Cs.
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  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited January 2011
    gdb wrote: »
    You really need a stage crew.:wink:
    LOL... but then there'd be booze and drugs and... where do I sign up?

    aa,
    Yeah, approaching equal is about all you can do, but knowng what your room does to the single pair you've had is your biggest advantage. That plus base-lining should be enough... just be sure to write down your relative impressions at every stage...

    Again, it sounds like a fun time to me...

    Late thought.... an spl sweep of each, pre- and post-mod, would be a nice addition. Even a slight dB difference could sway the comparision to the "louder" pair...

    I'll stop now before it ceases to be fun... :tongue:
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,244
    edited January 2011
    MAD AUDIO_ALAN !!!!! dude you crazy!!! J/K The set you upgrade give it at least 400hrs play time they will open up,and the soundstage will get wider.not that they sound like crap out the gate but they do start to sound sweeter..

    After that you will sell the other set or keep them for spare parts.You won't look back!!

    Good Luck,and have fun!!!

    Larry.
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »
    MAD AUDIO_ALAN !!!!! dude you crazy!!! J/K The set you upgrade give it at least 400hrs play time they will open up,and the soundstage will get wider.not that they sound like crap out the gate but they do start to sound sweeter..

    After that you will sell the other set or keep them for spare parts.You won't look back!!

    Good Luck,and have fun!!!

    Larry.

    I have several friends who would agree with you on the "crazy" comment. :wink:

    I'm really looking forward to hearing how good these speakers can sound! I figured buying the second set will help me learn as much as possible at each step of the upgrade process, so I can say which mods made how much of a difference...
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  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited January 2011
    analog97 wrote: »
    Excellent idea!! Perfect! No you are not mad. I would opt for any modification of #3. You should easily be able to take your time and draw valid conclusions. This is about as close to a perfect comparison as possible. Same room, same equipment, etc. Please post your resuslts. I assume you are going to do x-over mods?

    Sorry Analog97, I realized I didn't answer your question. I haven't decided on a modding order yet, but yes, the x-over mods are in the plan.
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