Monster Cable Powerbar 1100

pjdami

So yesterday I get to ride in my brother's new truck and we head out to Best Buy. I had a stage two filtration system on my mind. I saw the Monster 3500 but settled for the Monster Powerbar 1100 because it has a trigger input that I wanted to use to power up my cd player from my receiver.

Well, first thing first, when I get home, the switched outlets are amp, receiver, and cd player. I didn't notice this at the store, but when I got home. So one needs the damn receiver to be on standby power to start up the sequence and turn on the cd player but since the receiver is on the switched outlet, it doesn't work this way..

Okay. So the cable video definitely improved on some channels I was having problems with "waviness" and just poor analog cable on some channels. Digital cable channels looked sharper. I liked this a lot. Definite improvement.

Now for the audio. I hooked up all my components in system one, Rotel receiver, amp, and cd player to the outlets on this thing. Turned it on and put in a cd... as I walked away I thought to myself sounds bright... but it will burn in. I was sitting here in my office for a couple of hours and thought it sounded like the bass was tighter so I go and listen. The music sounded different to me. Dull and dry. I felt imaging had collapsed and the music sounded veiled. I could tell the music background sounded darker but it seemed to be at the expense of detail. I turned off the system and went to bed for the night.

Today, I get home from work and turn the system back on. I'm listening again. Same thing; it sounds different and I don't like the way it sounds. The benefits of adding the Transparent interconnects seem to be gone. The microdetails are gone... music sounds muddier. So I unplug all of the audio components and plug them back into el cheapo Woods Technology surge protector I bought from Wal Mart. Well, all of the detail and spaciousness has returned. More detail and isolation of instruments in specefic parts of the soundstage instead of being smeared or muddied up with the Monster hooked up. Also it seems like the music is more dynamic without the monster hooked up. At the same volume level, the difference between the softest music and the loudest is greater.

I'm wondering what the deal is here. This was done on the LSi 15s which I got last week and seem to have broken in a lot faster than my LSi 9 did.

Is it just that the Monster Powerbar 1100 is just an entry level power conditioner? I mean stage two conditioning is stage two or is it? It definitely is quieter, but makes my system sound to dull for my tastes.

Anybody else have an experience like this? Should I allow for more burn in time? About 10 hrs so far..

Sorry for the long post but right now I'm kind of in shock. I have a lot of power failures in this neighborhood I'm in. So far no problems with equipment due to surges; looks like the cheapo surge protectors work just fine.

PJ

Airplay355

id be lost without my cheapo surge protector, my house likes to get hit my lightning and becaue of that a modem and a phone have been fried, extra crispy. sorry i can't help u bout the monster thing, i have no expirence with those things at all...i think i heard once that they made everything the same voltage, so maybe ur receiver isnt getting as much power as it used to?

VR3

Yes, power conditioners make everything the same voltage - I believe so neways....but this wouldnt degrade the sound I dont think - it would make my room flicker like a **** though.....

Airplay355

mine already flickers like a ****...lol when i turned on my blacklight my rti100s woofers used to make a popping sound, thats gone wth the rti150s but still lol. not to mention the power has gone on and off in my neighboorhood so fast that it didnt even make my computer restart, the gap in the power was that quick...we need some better wires or something lol idk

pjdami

Just switched back and forth between the two again. I'm using a Jazz cd Patricia Barber "cafe blue". Track two has a lot of very dynamic piano, strings, cymbals, hi-hats, the works. I mean these Jazz musicians can jam.

My system sounds great on the cheap surge protector but lacks the detail when I switched back to the Monster.

This could be a mating problem again. The Transparent / LSi combo is laid back but detailed. The Monster seems to kill the detail. Sounds like it smears all the detail together more. Without the Monster, it sounds wonderful, very open and airy with instruments delicately placed in the soundstage.

On some piano notes, you can hear the notes go right to left in like five different points in the soundstage without the Monster. With the Monster the piano keys sound like they are just coming from a general center sound.

I've heard about these problems with some power conditioners and just wanted to experience it for myself. I mean I really want to like this product because of what the potential is and the warranty that comes with it; but I'm not going to sacrifice this level of sound quality and ambience that it definitely takes away in my opinion at least. Could be gear matching related I'm sure.

PJ

VR3

My room, when i turn the music up to about 100db - the lights turn off, flicker.

The reason why your RTi150 dont cause things to pop is because they dont plug into the wall, which means it dosnt draw current from the wall......I think so neways.......

F1nut

While I'm not familiar with your power bar, it sounds like it's choking (filtering) the power. Return it and try something else.

polkatese

Paul,
F1 could be right on the money there..the amp should be on an outlet that does NOT have the filtering on. On my Pana 5500, there are four outlets for the high current gears that are not subject to filtering. On my MC HTS800, I plug in my Rotel on the designated Amp outlet and it seems to do fine with the details. of course, I haven't really spend the time to A/B w/ and w/o. Have you tried a different MC such as 5100?

pjdami

Thanks for the responses guys. I think this is a newer model. I kind of bought it for experimentation purposes and for the trigger. I plugged the amp into the socket labeled power amp. I agree that it may be robbing some power and that may be why it is affecting dynamics. I was just reading some stuff over at Audio Asylum about others having this same problem and they recommend plugging the power amp straight into the wall or a non-filtered outlet. I will be returning this unit as I feel that it is not "burn-in" related at all and the trigger doesn't work like I want it to.

This power conditioning / surge suppresion thing is the last step in my upgrades. I still have to get a better sub but that can be done in parallel with this. I felt that I needed to get all my gear, speakers, and wire in order and do the power conditioning thing last. I guess it makes me kind of nervous having all this gear plugged into a cheap surge protector but the damn thing sounds just as good as plugged straight into the wall. The Monster just is doing something that I don't care for. Not that it sounds bad .... just not as good as resolution as I'm getting without it. When you compare with and without it it is very very obvious and it sounds bad then in comparison.

It seems like a lot of the audiophiles at audio asylum like a product called "brickwall". It is supposed to be "bullet-proof" against surges. That is really all I am after here. I like the way the rig sounds with the Transparent / LSi / Rotel and really just want protection and better video filtering. I'm not really after altering the sonics of this system at all. It sounds fabulous to me. Just with all the damn thunderstorms we have daily here in La. during the summer and stuff I just want good surge protection.

Wow. I thought I was done on this audio journey and this last power conditioning / surge suppresion thing was going to be a breeze. Well, I have been corrected again. It never ends does it.

F1nut

NO, it never ends...lol.

Could you get somemore info on that "Brickwall", I'm interested in looking at it.

pjdami

Sure F1. I'm reading about it right now.

http://www.pricewheeler.com/

I'm also considering Richard Gray Power Company and there was a thread a while back where someone here on the forum actually reviewed a bunch of these items. Balanced Power is another one that I recall that he like the best I think? I'm going to have to go back and find that thread.

I'm looking for something "inexpensive" if possible around the $200 - $300 range. I can't take spending $700 for something that I just want surge suppresion for and better video for the tv. Then I need two of these because I have two systems...

Do a search on Audio Asylum for "brickwall" too in the general asylum and you will get a bunch of hits as well.

P.

pjdami

okay. found post by jmierzur from a month ago or so.

http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10567&highlight=balanced+power

He's got two links to threads he started where he tested some equipment. Now I think I know what he is talking about.

Man, this can be just as heated as a debate as wire, cables, bi-wire or just about anything else in this hobby..

Paul

mantis

pjdami,
all wrong here my man.For the 2 channel rig,you need to look into Transparents power bricks.The quality of your system demands it.You can get one for 2 channel audio.

For the Theater,Monstercable HTS5100 is where you need to be.700.00????Hey it's a price to pay for higher fidelity and video quality.

Email me and we can talk my man......
Dan

Shame you missed out on my sale of my HTS5000,reeltrouble snagged it up before I could even put it up for sale......

pjdami

Mantis,

I hear ya man. I'm just experimenting a bit and thought I could get by "on the cheap". Well ironically my manager at work sent us this quote today...

"Luck affects everything. Let your hook always be cast; in the stream where you least expect it there will be a fish." - Ovid

Well, I might have caught a fish here but it ain't the kind worth eating with the Monster Powerbar 1100. I thought I was going to get lucky and get what I was looking for on the cheap but it ain't happening. You've steered me on the correct path so far so I trust that this will continue with confidence.

You know what I'm after... if it's the Monster 5100 reference that I need to get then that will be it. I definitely want to reduce any noise level without losing the expense of detail that my system can provide and the magic that the Transparent provides.

Actually, I've moved the LSi 15 over to the main rig for home theater because I want to see what the 15s can do since they are located in the center of the house and I can turn up the volume a little more without my neighbors thinking I'm too crazy or anything even though I live in a house.

The 5100 is the entry level reference Monster it seems designed by Richard Marsh. So far I like what I've read about it.

mantis

pjdami,
your learning and I dig it.

My guidence isn't always the answer here.Your ears will tell you more.
The powerbar is a cheap way to protect your gear with low level of detail retained.I know I have Installed power bars in the past.Not my favorite product they have built.........

The HTS5100 is a very good piece,but the HTPS7000 is much much better.It splits the voltage across 2 60 volt bars and cleans them.Then combines the power back with pure clean power.Get your read on with the HTPS7000 before you buy anything.The HTS5100 is the alternative,a great one but nonetheless cheak into the 7000.

Just to fill you in on my system,I will be using a AVS2000 along with a HTPS7000 for the ultimate in clean power.

RuSsMaN

Just FYI, there is a Panamax for sale in the flea market.

Fastmerc

Mantis,

I was considering getting an AVS2000. I also noted as you said that it is best to use it in conjunction with a power center. My question is why use both? If the AVS does its job and conditions the power to keep the voltage the same then should the components on the other end of it be surge protected by default?

Also after reading some of these sub threads linked above, I now wonder if one of these other units that combines the two functions of conditioning and surge protecting might be the better way to go??

I am building my home entertainment wall currently and I am sending a dedicated 20amp line for A/V use. I also wondered if I should make the incoming wire from the breaker panel larger than standard and make the outlet using one of these hospital grade outlets. Or maybe even better hardwire the power conditioner straigt to the breaker panel?

Thanks,
Brett

ezc

pjdami,

mantis is right. Your not getting enough amps to your amp. the power bar is much too small for your equipment. I had a Monster power ht800 conntcted to my equipment while I waited for my avs2000 sig ser & my htps7000 sig ser ( I upgraded from the standard htps 7000 & avs 2000 to the same but signature series) & it seemed to choke everything down. The sound from my lsi15 went from full to flat. Once I got my avs 2000 & htps 7000 the speakers wokeup. The htp 5100 & the htps 7000 has dedicated hi current outlets for high power amps. Im a firm beliver of clean ac power. I have spent lots on my ac conditioners & feel if the ac is bad all my equipment will not preform as intended to.
Here is a pic of my rack with the avs 2000 & the htps 7000. My purchase of the 2000 & the 7000 was money well spent! I do have a HTPS 7000 for sale, I used it in my system for about 6 mo before buying both sig series modles. Let me know if your interested.

pjdami

Thanks ezc,

Its cool that you are an actual Monster Power dealer. You also have a very similar setup that I do with LSi 15 and Rotel gear. I also have Transparent wire (interconnects and speaker wire) as suggested by Mantis and man it is a killer combination. If you get an opportunity you should try it out. I believe gshisme also had this setup and loved it but unfortunately he is selling all his gear.

I have a question about the Monster gear for you. I have read that they use MOVs for surge protection and that these devices fail slowly over time until one has no protection. Is this true? Have you ever had a customer complain that their equipment was damaged by a power surge / lightning when hooked up to Monster Protection and how good is Monster in backing up their warranty?

Thanks for the offer on the HTPS 7000. Would this come with the Monster Warranty if I bought it from you? Interesting that you upgraded to the reference series. I know that you are trying to sell your regular 7000 but how much of a sonic difference between the regular and the signature series? Or did you upgrade for other reasons?

Thanks and sorry for all of the questions. I know some of them are kind of tough to answer but I know that you will respond with truth:)

Paul

ezc

pjdami,

I personally havnt heard from my customers about failing surge portection. I asked one of the monster reps at our last training how long will the surge & clean power last & his answer was with nornal use a lifetime, thats why monster offers a lifetime gurantee. If the unit takes a lightning strike or other large surges it will sacrifice its life for your equipment, & at that point the unit may need to be sent in for service. We do not get may lightning strikes here in Hi. but we do have dirty power. The htps 7000 has a $750000 equipment gurantee & a lifetime warranty agenst defects. The $750000 gurranty is good only if all equipment is plugged into the 7000 or other covered monster power conditioners. I have the 7000 & my sub is plugged into a monster SW200, so all my connections are plugged into & protected. This unit is like new I posted a while back but now my wife wants me to sell it so we can take a vacation at the end of the year. Here is the post http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10308 I wanted to bring the 7000 to my shop & use it here but I just dont have enough room. Im willing to sell & ship this unit for $800 via UPS ground & insured. I upgraded to the sig series beacuse Monster offered the dealers a chance to buy the limited sig series. I purchased the AVS2000 sig ser first & than the HTPS 7000 sig ser. I just wanted it to match. The standard has red led readout & the sig has blue. I couldnt hear any sonic differences between the standard & the sig. This unit is in great shape. There are 2 very small scratches that I didnt know about unitl I was taking pics for sale. I dont have the original box but I do have the box for the sig ser. I will use that box & all packing material to ship. There is a warranty by monster. The buyer will get a sales invoice from my comapny & it will be a regular sale. Let me know if you have any questions.

pjdami

ezc,

Thanks for the great and prompt response. I am interested in knowing more about the 7000. Shoot me an email at so we can exchange emails. Its kind of late tonight and I want to think this over some but I will let you know by email very soon.

Thanks,
Paul

pauly_70@cox.net