Setup and Rti A9s

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Comments

  • PiG
    PiG Posts: 35
    edited January 2011
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Bottom line: get your electronics up to snuff. I'd start @ the beginning w/the source but...
    1. this seems a "speakers versus amps" debate...
    ...upgrade your SSP/AVR* so you CAN drive 'em**w/higher quality/quantity power.
    * important to get the SSP part right along the way. Doing so will give you aural immersion
    ** regardless of which speakers you settle on

    2. Get your source right (e.g. Blue Ray) & CONNECT it*...
    "You MUST retrieve those one & zeros CORRECTLY! NOTHING you do after that can make up for any failing here." See 3. below.
    * ... correctly! That's as far as I'll go with that. Any further will ignite thread derailing mud slinging!

    3. Don't connect mediocre sources w/cheap ICs to great electronics and expect great results. Consider:
    a. VCR connected, via coax, to THE state-of-art 50" TV.
    b. middle to upscale market Blue Ray player connected to a middle to upscale market 50" TV using aftermarket IC(s).
    My $ is on "b" as the better viewing experience. This applies to sound too.

    4. Saved the end for last. Looked into what RTi8/10s are. The RTi A5s & 'A7s replace them respectively; its no accident their driver complements are the same. RTi & RTi A series speakers [inside] are far more similar than different. Don't quote me but I believe both product lines use the same tweeter, very similar, if not the same, mids & woofers. They do have slightly different XOs*. The CSi A5 matches your '8s & '10s hence your first choice for a center speaker ensuring the (very critical) best possible, to quote an earlier post, timbre match.
    * you could upgrade all 5 channels' XOs** for way less than used A9s & retain 5 channel timbre match!
    ** XO caps. Click on http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61727&highlight=capacitor+shootout

    5. Connections. If you don't have it covered, Parts Express sells 30' rolls of 12 ga OFC speaker wire for $9.80 each; a mere $.33/foot! W/tips! Ye-a-h I know, some reading this will say "So-and-so company's wire..." Heavy OFC speaker wire that's real cheap! I'll PM you my experiences with wire.
    1. It's becoming very clear what LOGIC demands. I need the brains to back any of these puppies up.

    2. The source would be blue ray and connected via HDMI but the current AVR is a bit too stupid to deal with Master Audio... +1 for the logic of item 1.

    3. I take it this is another +1 to item 1...

    4. That's the centre I think I need to invest in regardless.

    5. I take it you would think I'd benefit from using the lower gauge wire to connect from speaker to AVR regardless OR where you specifically thinking for rewiring the speakers themselves?

    Thanks again
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited January 2011
    Pig

    Click & consider the info:

    http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64331

    I'll PM why later. Gotta go
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited January 2011
    from post #33
    PiG wrote: »
    ...I'd benefit from using the lower gauge [heavier] wire to connect from speaker to AVR ...
    Thanks again
    Yes, yes, YES! ...if you don't already have something better/heavier.

    At the risk of igniting a debate, in my experience re-wiring speaker internals, while questionable by some and a LOT a work, would kick it up another knotch.

    Either/both squeezes more out of every watt.

    cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Buggy166
    Buggy166 Posts: 17
    edited January 2011
    ive gone with 12 gauge wire for all of my rti system and its a good choice. think but not overly thick not to fit most banana plugs. ordered some plugs from amazon canada (20 for $50, 5 speakers 4 per) and it went well.

    10 gauge is too big imo and a bit overkill unless you live in a mansion and need extremely long wires. dont go higher than 14 gauge either since you may lose quality in terms of length as well so pick from 12 or 14 imo. i paid roughly $100 for 100 feet of 12 gauge color coded wire.
  • DJaxx
    DJaxx Posts: 15
    edited January 2011
    Buggy166 wrote: »
    ive gone with 12 gauge wire for all of my rti system and its a good choice. think but not overly thick not to fit most banana plugs. ordered some plugs from amazon canada (20 for $50, 5 speakers 4 per) and it went well.

    10 gauge is too big imo and a bit overkill unless you live in a mansion and need extremely long wires. dont go higher than 14 gauge either since you may lose quality in terms of length as well so pick from 12 or 14 imo. i paid roughly $100 for 100 feet of 12 gauge color coded wire.

    Hey Buggy.....were you able to get the second A9 yet? Hopefully the solution is better than what you described last week. :eek:
    HDTV: Pioneer Kuro 5020
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V1800
    Center: Polk CSiA6
    Fronts: Polk RTiA9's
    Surrounds: Polk RTiA3
    Blu Ray: Sony BDP S370
  • Buggy166
    Buggy166 Posts: 17
    edited January 2011
    yea i got it. just trying to get rid of the psw111 now which is a much easier issue to deal with. i finally have the system minus a powerful sub. the psw 111 cant do much in my living room(and its not a huge room necessarily) so im gonna grab that HSU VTF-15h when i have some money.


    i setup the audyssey test and everything but i seem to be getting some noise in high pitches from concert blurays like anread bocelli and other ones like it. I dont know how to fix that.
  • PiG
    PiG Posts: 35
    edited January 2011
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    from post #33

    Yes, yes, YES! ...if you don't already have something better/heavier.

    At the risk of igniting a debate, in my experience re-wiring speaker internals, while questionable by some and a LOT a work, would kick it up another knotch.

    Either/both squeezes more out of every watt.

    cheers tony
    I think I'll be wiring up the fronts and centre with 12 awg at the very least, that's not too much work for some added benefits.