Bi-Wire Jumpers vs. Plates included w/my speakers- Some insight please.

myke
myke Posts: 138
What are the best in a moderate price point? Audioquest offers jumper copper and silver...any real difference? I've ordered banana plugs so since I will be using those soon does that make a difference? Are the plates that came with my speakers enough?
Bonus Room:
Pioneer Elite VSX-32
RTi A7's / CSi A6
DSW PRO 600 sub

Emotiva XPA-5 & Interconnects
Sony Surrounds (rears) - replacing soon

Samsung BD-C5500
Panamax M5300, Xbox360, ...& more coming

Living Room:
Samsung 58" PLasma
Monoprice in-ceiling speakers
old sony receiver (replacing soon)
Post edited by myke on

Comments

  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2010
    Anything is better than those plates. Just keep it cheap to modestly priced....heck just DIY it and go crazy.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • cnjvh
    cnjvh Posts: 253
    edited November 2010
    Just curious why the plates are considered to be so poor? They are very wide, flat pieces of metal that make great contact with the binding posts. Not sure what gauge they are equal to but probably at least 16?

    Is the metal composition the issue?
    No earth robot is going to tell ME which button to press!!

    --Stuff--
    Front: Polk Audio RTi12
    Center: Polk Audio CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk Audio RTi8 (x4)
    Sub: SVS PB10-ISD (Dual)
    AVR: Denon AVR-3805
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  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,781
    edited November 2010
    cnjvh wrote: »
    Just curious why the plates are considered to be so poor? They are very wide, flat pieces of metal that make great contact with the binding posts. Not sure what gauge they are equal to but probably at least 16?

    Is the metal composition the issue?

    Nothing wrong with the plates. There are traces on the crossover that are much thinner than the jumper plates, and they aren't even gold palted!:eek:
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited November 2010
    The problem is the capacitance of the plates, and also the core material. Not all frequencies ride on the surface where it is gold:wink:
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited November 2010
    I'm not sold at that idea Ben but it's a cheap enough tweak that who cares either way...really, you can make your own for $20. You know what I mean?
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • myke
    myke Posts: 138
    edited November 2010
    sorry to sound stupid but just to be sure, would I run my normal speaker wire with banana plugs into the bottom inputs and just simply add a short strip of speaker wire into those same banana plugs (w/the speaker wire already in them) and connect them into the upper inputs?
    Bonus Room:
    Pioneer Elite VSX-32
    RTi A7's / CSi A6
    DSW PRO 600 sub

    Emotiva XPA-5 & Interconnects
    Sony Surrounds (rears) - replacing soon

    Samsung BD-C5500
    Panamax M5300, Xbox360, ...& more coming

    Living Room:
    Samsung 58" PLasma
    Monoprice in-ceiling speakers
    old sony receiver (replacing soon)
  • TrashyTrucker
    TrashyTrucker Posts: 225
    edited November 2010
    myke wrote: »
    sorry to sound stupid but just to be sure, would I run my normal speaker wire with banana plugs into the bottom inputs and just simply add a short strip of speaker wire into those same banana plugs (w/the speaker wire already in them) and connect them into the upper inputs?


    Myke,
    Yes you could do that. But to simplify things, use good wire and run the jumpers like the stock jumpers. And then use your plugs. IMHO

    Matt :biggrin:
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,990
    edited November 2010
    Take some left over speaker wire, cut some short, just enough to make it to the top and bottom posts on the back of the speaker. Remove the plates, connect the speaker wire jumper and screw down the post cap. Now connect your speaker cables with the banana ends to the bottom post, they'll just push right in, walla, your done.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
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    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
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    Kitchen

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  • myke
    myke Posts: 138
    edited November 2010
    trashy and tony,
    thanks for dumbing it down for me, i really appreciate it. I though it would work something like that but you never know. I saw someones pictures posted here a while ago that looked like the description i mentioned earlier so thats what i was going off of in my head.
    Bonus Room:
    Pioneer Elite VSX-32
    RTi A7's / CSi A6
    DSW PRO 600 sub

    Emotiva XPA-5 & Interconnects
    Sony Surrounds (rears) - replacing soon

    Samsung BD-C5500
    Panamax M5300, Xbox360, ...& more coming

    Living Room:
    Samsung 58" PLasma
    Monoprice in-ceiling speakers
    old sony receiver (replacing soon)
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited November 2010
    I've heard the DH Labs Q10 jumpers are good with their silver over copper design and 10g conductors.