2.3 TL upgrade questions

Cramer1
Cramer1 Posts: 72
edited November 2010 in Vintage Speakers
Hello All,

A pair of 2.3TL's are on their way to my home this week. I currently have a pair of 2.3's and did the upgrades on the crossovers.

I am currently working on a parts list for the upgrades. Looking at the schematic, here is what I come up with:

(2) 22.5 ohm resistors

(1) 16 uf capacitor (nylar)
(1) 8 uf capacitor (nylar)
(1) 5.9 uf capacitor (electro)
(1) 18 uf capacitor (electro)
(1) 27 uf capacitor (electro)

(2) pair of binding posts

(1) RXE135 polyswitch

I have quite a few questions. I have some extra poly's left from my 2.3 upgrades and they are Raychem RXE135 on them. This should be the same switch, right? The 750pf silver mica capacitors get eliminated just like I did in the 2.3's? Is my list of capacitors and resistors correct?

On the 2.3 schematic the capacitors are not labeled nylar or electro. What is the difference and what do I need for replacements? I have been reading a bit about rings lately and I assume they are for the drivers. This is being used instead of Mortite? Where can I get them and do I use anything different that Mortite for the passive radiator, the tweeters and the binding post cover?

What is recommended for spikes? I would like to use the current thread holes that are factory, but if that is not recommeded, then what is. I have a factory set of these from my 2.3's. The 2.3Tl's do have have an interconnect with them. I believe Ben makes them, is that correct? Also where can a person get the small amount of the sound damping mat for the baskets? (forgot the name)

I have been trying for a long time to get my hands on some TL's, so I want to do this right.

Thanks for all your help!
Post edited by Cramer1 on
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Comments

  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited November 2010
    Did you get the ones in Denver or Co Springs? these spikes work great and will thread into the stock feet. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=249-727
    The polys you have extra should be fine, yes eliminate the 750 bypass, Don't worry about nylar or electro, just go with a well known brand like Dayton, Sonicap,etc and make sure they are high enough voltage, usually most the higher end ones are 250v more than adequate.
    you can get dynamat usually anywhere that deals in car audio.
    The 5.9 is actually a 5.8 I used a 5.6 and called it close enough. And as always if you have to divide values of caps or resistors try and get the two as equal as possible to avoid the smaller of the two acting as a bypass cap. I ordered everything from PE and went with all 1% Dayton's on mine and love the way it sounds, but to each his own.
  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    I purchased the ones in Denver and I had already made a commitment to them before the others came up, then I saw yours and would have bought them on a second's notice if I had not made the commitment.

    I, too put in all Daytons on my 2.3's. Just not sure if I should go with Sonics as these are the TL's and do what sounds best, but I am not sure if there is enough difference to offset the cost.

    What about the rings and the interconnect?

    I would also like to find a set of the gold "Polk Audio Badges", as the Monitor series has.

    Is my list of caps. and resistors complete?

    Thanks
  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited November 2010
    The cost difference was enough for me to go all Dayton, if you have the money it would be nice to try Sonics on the high side but thats up to you, I feel the Dayton 1% are a huge upgrade over stock. Cannot say on the rings as I have not done that mod. Sometimes you can find pin blade IC on e-bay or here. Good luck on the Polk sda srs badges, those are rare.
  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    Zarrdoss,

    The badges I am looking for are not the SRS badges, they are just the Polk Audio that were used on the Monitor series 2 (and probably others).

    Every advertisment and brochure I have on the 2.3TL's show that badge down by the passive radiator under the removable grill. I thought it adds a nice touch!

    The other thing I am confused about is even all the old brochures for the 2.3's do not show the donut drivers, they look like the TL version, but they say they are the 2.3's and have the SL 2000 tweeters and talk about the 1.2's also. This was before the TL's were out. I only have one Stereo Review magazine that talks about the 2.3's when they came out and shows a set with the donut drivers.
  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited November 2010
    OK I know what you are talking about on the badges, I think they just did that for the photo shoots for advertising but never did it for the actual speaker.
    I was told Polk used reg 6511 drivers at first in the 2.3's but felt they had too much mid so changed it to the 6513 donut driver.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,253
    edited November 2010
    If you can swing it Go with Sonicaps. Your list looks good to me.

    Congrats on the buy!! Are they being shipped to you?? or are you picking them up??
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,253
    edited November 2010
    The badges come up on eBay all the time. Have you looked there??
  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    I will have to keep checking on E-bay too. I am going to price out the difference between the Sonics and the Dayton's. If I went with Sonic's, are they necessary on the lows, I thought maybe I would just do it on the highs like Zardoss said.

    They are being shipped, I informed the seller to give UPS, the shipping company to give instructions that they are to be shipped on their backs. Custom crates are being made.

    The list is shorter that the 2.3's, so I just wanted to make sure!

    Thanks
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,253
    edited November 2010
    Daytons on the lows will be fine. That's how my 1.2tl's are. I used all sonicaps in my 1C's.
  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    Larry,

    Do you know anything about these rings? Where I can get them and what you use then for the tweeters, the back wiring cover, the passive? Or do you just use Mortite on the others?

    Thanks
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited November 2010
    Sonicaps
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    Just looking into Sonic's websight, you must have to call or e-mail for a quote. It is not like parts express where they are are listed? Or is there another site?
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,253
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    Larry,

    Do you know anything about these rings? Where I can get them and what you use then for the tweeters, the back wiring cover, the passive? Or do you just use Mortite on the others?

    Thanks

    Well I am the one that makes the rings. I make them for the drivers as well as the Passive,and tweeters.. I use mortite on everything, drivers, passive,and tweeters.

    Some just use the old gaskets with great results witht the rings.

    As far as the binding post cup, just use the old gasket.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,253
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    Just looking into Sonic's websight, you must have to call or e-mail for a quote. It is not like parts express where they are are listed? Or is there another site?

    Just call them. My money says they will have a sale by the end of the month.
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    Just looking into Sonic's websight, you must have to call or e-mail for a quote. It is not like parts express where they are are listed? Or is there another site?

    Call them tomorrow,,ask for Jeff of Elliot,,you'll probabally get Elliot anyhow,,stand up company,, great guys.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    ok, another question, instead of ordering from Parts Express and Parts Connection for parts, like I did before. (I used the Parts connection for the Mills resistors MRA 05F, 5 watt resistors). Parts Express has 12watt resistors, will they work as a suitable replacement?
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,253
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    ok, another question, instead of ordering from Parts Express and Parts Connection for parts, like I did before. (I used the Parts connection for the Mills resistors MRA 05F, 5 watt resistors). Parts Express has 12watt resistors, will they work as a suitable replacement?


    Yep they will be fine..
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited November 2010
    Mills 12 watters are fine--thats what I have used for years. Good luck.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited November 2010
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    Just looking into Sonic's websight, you must have to call or e-mail for a quote. It is not like parts express where they are are listed? Or is there another site?

    All items at Sonic Craft have prices. Use the left side menu to access.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/sonicaps.htm

    Edit: Zarrdoss types faster...lol
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited November 2010
    nah I had it saved in the fav's, you cant call what I do typing, lol

    I would imagine a 5.6 in place of the 5.8 and a 8 and two 8's for the 16 on the highs brings it out to 61.18 each speaker
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    I am currently working on a parts list for the upgrades. Looking at the schematic, here is what I come up with:

    (2) 22.5 ohm resistors

    (1) 16 uf capacitor (nylar)
    (1) 8 uf capacitor (nylar)
    (1) 5.9 uf capacitor (electro)
    (1) 18 uf capacitor (electro)
    (1) 27 uf capacitor (electro)

    (2) pair of binding posts

    (1) RXE135 polyswitch

    That's mylar, not nylar.
    I have quite a few questions. I have some extra poly's left from my 2.3 upgrades and they are Raychem RXE135 on them. This should be the same switch, right? The 750pf silver mica capacitors get eliminated just like I did in the 2.3's? Is my list of capacitors and resistors correct?

    Unless you are in the habit of tripping the poly's, remove them and replace with a 0.5 ohm, 12 watt Mills. The 5.9uF should be 5.8uF.
    On the 2.3 schematic the capacitors are not labeled nylar or electro. What is the difference and what do I need for replacements?

    You are replacing the stock caps with film/foil caps, don't worry about the difference between the originals.
    I have been reading a bit about rings lately and I assume they are for the drivers. This is being used instead of Mortite? Where can I get them and do I use anything different that Mortite for the passive radiator, the tweeters and the binding post cover?

    When using the rings I see no point or need for Mortite.
    What is recommended for spikes? I would like to use the current thread holes that are factory, but if that is not recommeded, then what is. I have a factory set of these from my 2.3's. The 2.3Tl's do have have an interconnect with them. I believe Ben makes them, is that correct? Also where can a person get the small amount of the sound damping mat for the baskets? (forgot the name)

    Lots of spikes out there. I like the ones from Mye Sound. The thread pattern is 1/4-20. Dynamat Extreme is available all over the internet.
    I have been trying for a long time to get my hands on some TL's, so I want to do this right.

    I like using all Sonicaps and Mills resistors. Clarity is another good cap choice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited November 2010
    I would imagine a 5.6 in place of the 5.8

    The 5.6 will work or you can ask Elliot to custom value a couple of 5.8's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    Hello,

    I found an original interconnect cable on e-bay, it says it is from the CRS speaker, but is the blade/pin cable. I asked him and he said he was not sure if it fit the other speakers. I am thinking all the blade/pin cables are the same no matter if they are from the CRS's or the 1.2 TL's, right?
  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited November 2010
    Cramer1 wrote: »
    Hello,

    I found an original interconnect cable on e-bay, it says it is from the CRS speaker, but is the blade/pin cable. I asked him and he said he was not sure if it fit the other speakers. I am thinking all the blade/pin cables are the same no matter if they are from the CRS's or the 1.2 TL's, right?

    You are correct. Congrats on the 2.3TLs!

    Still listening to the 3.1s?

    stubby
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    Hello Paul,

    Good to hear from you! Yes, I still have the 3.1's and they are A-ok. Still in the same condition as they were when you left them behind! I have the 2.3's all upgraded and kind of hate to get rid of them too! But, it these 2.3tl's are in good shape, which I hope they are, then I will probably have to get rid of the 2.3's at some point.

    Paul, would you mind checking out that auction on e-bay to make sure on that interconnect cable, just to make sure. I just searched SDA.

    Thanks

    Cory
  • Earthy
    Earthy Posts: 488
    edited November 2010
    Welcome to the 2.3TL club. I'll be following your progress as I too will be updating mine. Just waiting for the Sonicaps to go on sale.
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Parasound Halo A21
    Parasound Halo P3

    Home theater
    Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
    Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
    SVS PB12-ISD Sub
    Denon AVR-X6400h
    Parasound Halo A51
    LG OLED65B7A
    Sony UBPX800
    Logitech Harmony Elite
    PC LSiM 703
    Spare LSIM 702 and 706c

    Home Theater #2
    Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
    Onkyo TX-NR808



  • Cramer1
    Cramer1 Posts: 72
    edited November 2010
    Earthy,

    I am not sure when you know they go on sale. I do like ordering from PE better as I can just order on line. But, saying that Elliot from Sonic was very pleasant, it just took them some time and he said he would call me back, well, no phone call, but there was an e-mailed quote from today.

    They have a discount on the ticket of $23.00 on a $120.00 purchase.

    I just ordered Sonics for the highs, I am going to go with Dayton 1% on the lows. I used these dayton's for the highs and lows on the 2.3's I have.

    The speakers are being shipped and are already breaking the bank. I ordered all the caps, resistors, dynamat, tweeters, binding posts, and spikes!!

    Not sure when I will get all the work done, but I will keep it updated! I hope they are worth all of this. Sometime I have to question if they will really be that much better that the reg. 2.3's.

    Let me know on your progress. Where did you get your 2.3tl's from? Colorado Springs?

    Thanks

    Cory
  • Earthy
    Earthy Posts: 488
    edited November 2010
    My 2.3TL's have been in the family since around '92. They just came into my possession recently, but I have had the pleasure of listening to them for decades. I always made it clear that I wanted them. The power of positive thinking.

    They really sound awesome as is, so I am in no rush to update them. I have rings already. It sounds like your already getting a 20% discount on those Sonicaps. I guess I should get a parts list together.

    How much are you saving by not going all Sonicaps?
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Parasound Halo A21
    Parasound Halo P3

    Home theater
    Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
    Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
    SVS PB12-ISD Sub
    Denon AVR-X6400h
    Parasound Halo A51
    LG OLED65B7A
    Sony UBPX800
    Logitech Harmony Elite
    PC LSiM 703
    Spare LSIM 702 and 706c

    Home Theater #2
    Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
    Onkyo TX-NR808