1999 4runner brake caliper removal

disneyjoe7

Anyone know how to remove this caliper, I'm confused if I need to break brake line and then bleed or is there a way to do it with it doing that? It's a solid brake line I'm changing the rotors out, and replacing pads out.



Thanks Steve

billbillw

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Anyone know how to remove this caliper, I'm confused if I need to break brake line and then bleed or is there a way to do it with it doing that? It's a solid brake line I'm changing the rotors out, and replacing pads out.



Thanks Steve

Steve,
I hate to say it, but I'm sure you could get a faster answer by google searching, or searching around at one of the 4runner forum clubs (I'm guessing there are at least a few).

Most of the car specific forums I've been around have detailed instructions for most of the major maintenance jobs (with photos) as a sticky post.

dorokusai

It sounds like it's above your pay grade to perform work on something as vital as a brake component.

BIZILL

agree with doro. but at the same time, many of those brake jobber company deals are nothing more than over-paid vampires. but instead of blood from your jugular, they suck money from your wallet.

find a good forum, join it and run a search. i've gotten a good deal of help by doing just this with my silverado. that, or get someone kind such as exhalted to steer you in the right direction.

dorokusai

Pads and rotors? Absolutely, but if you've never bled brakes before, get a friend who has to help and the right tools.

BIZILL

don't know about the vehicle in question, but usually scan codes need to be dealt with. if you have a second vehicle, good deal. give yourself time to shop around for prices. either way, i'm sure you'll get burned in the end. but that's just the way it is sometimes.

disneyjoe7

I do brake jobs all the time but the 4runner caliper is a little odd, I actually do most car fix repair.

BIZILL

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=1999+forerunner+brake+caliper+removal

fatpiggy

Leave the brake line.Dont undo the banjo bolt.There should be a 8mm bleed nipple.Put a piece of 1/4 " hose onto the nipple place the hose into a container of brake fluid open up the bleed nipple and press the brake pedal slowly, but dont push the pedal all the way to the floor sometimes the seals inside the brake mater cyclinder can get damage by rust at the end of the master cyclinder.
Just press the pedal slowly half way lift your foot off and do that a few times.then go and close the brake nipple and your brakes should be bleed.I always bleed the brakes from the furthest brake first and work my way back to the front drivers side.Dont forget to recheck top up the brake fluid level as you go.

Fat piggy

fatpiggy

To remove just the brake caliper you only need to undo 2 X 12mm bolts.You donot need to undo the brake line.I always lever the brake pads away from the disc with a screw driver before removing the brake caliper bolts.That way the brake caliper will just lift off easy.If you want to change the pads.You need to use a G - clamp to push the brake piston back home.Otherwise you wont be able to put the caliper back on the hub.I use the clamp with the old pad still fitted to the piston.Then once the piston has been pushed back in I remove the old pad and clip in the new pad.Only do one wheel at a time.Dont remove all the calipers and then try to push the brake pistions back, you will end up pushing the pistons out of the other calipers.So work on one brake caliper at a time.I also remove the lid off the brake master cyclinder fluid resivour makes it easier to push the brake pistons back.

Fatpiggy

disneyjoe7

fatpiggy wrote: »

Leave the brake line.Dont undo the banjo bolt.There should be a 8mm bleed nipple.Put a piece of 1/4 " hose onto the nipple place the hose into a container of brake fluid open up the bleed nipple and press the brake pedal slowly, but dont push the pedal all the way to the floor sometimes the seals inside the brake mater cyclinder can get damage by rust at the end of the master cyclinder.
Just press the pedal slowly half way lift your foot off and do that a few times.then go and close the brake nipple and your brakes should be bleed.I always bleed the brakes from the furthest brake first and work my way back to the front drivers side.Dont forget to recheck top up the brake fluid level as you go.

Fat piggy

Yes ok I done that...

Now since I feel OEM parts SUCK, I'm replacing them with a EBC disk's Dimpled and Slotted with EBC Green pads...

http://www.buybrakes.com/ebc/


Now if I can't figure out how to remove the caliper with breaking the brake line. I'm sure I can remove it when I remove the solid line since it is connected to the strut, then its connected to a rubber line.


And no I can't see any thread that I search for that states what I need.

fatpiggy

To remove the brake pads,their should be 2 pins that hold the brake pads in place and a brake cross clip.Using a punch from the inside you knock one of the pins out.Once you have loosened the pin it should pull out.The x clip should also come out.Then knock out the other pin.you should be able to remove the pad pads.

fatpiggy

Ok is there 2 bolts like 12mm or 14mm that bolt the caliper to the strut.

fatpiggy

by the way you dont need to disconnect the rubber brake hose line, you can leave that connected to the caliper, you just tie it up with a piece of wire so as it dosnt dangle and stretch the rubber brake hose.The only time you would need to disconnect the rubber brake line is if you are going to replace the brake caliper, which I dont thing thats what your doing.

disneyjoe7

Chilton states this...

Remove Caliper.

Remove Brake line.
Remove Caliber.


I was just thinking maybe there another way to do this.

fatpiggy

If you wanted to replace the brake caliper.You can clamp off the rubber brake line with a brake line clamp.Then when you undo the brake line to the caliper you dont not loose brake fluid just a few drips.

fatpiggy

Explain as to what your doing, are you fitting new brake lines and new brake calipers.

or are you just fitting new brake pads and new discs.

Fatpiggy

dorokusai

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Chilton states this...

Remove Caliper.

Remove Brake line.
Remove Caliber.


I was just thinking maybe there another way to do this.

Buy a high quality service manual from Helm.....Chilton's is almost like a comic book.

fatpiggy

I think have worked out what your trying to do, your trying to install a new brake caliper.
To replace the brake caliper you need to un bolt the caliper from the strut.clamp off the rubber hose then undo the brake line that connects to the caliper.Hold the line with a spanner and roate the caliper until the line has been undone.I guess your thinking that by undoing the brake hose it will just twist up and break.Just loosen the brake line and turn the caliper until its disconnected.Just remember to clamp off the line so as you dont loose fluid.

fatpiggy

Heres another shot of the caliper bolts 14mm I think, you can see where the brake line has a horseshoe clip that holds it to the strut, where the metal pipe meets the rubber hose.You can just pull out the clip and the hose will be loose.You can then hang the caliper with a piece of wire from the strut whilst changing the disc or undo the steel brake pipe from the caliper to remove the caliper.If you dont remove the horse shoe clip you will bend the brake pipe whilst trying to remove the caliper and you will end up trashing the brake pipe.

Fatpiggy

fatpiggy

Here a few pictures.The steel brake line connected to the caliper should be around 12mm if you undo it it will rotate as the pipe is on a flange.But you will need to clamp the rubber part of the brake line or you will loose all your brake fluid.

Fatpiggy

disneyjoe7

So thinking about it yes I think it may have enough room to remove the horseshoe clip and swing the caliper out of way to remove disk. The caliper has two half's which have 4 pistons total moving the pads from both sides. Interesting design if I say myself, the caliper is connected by two large bolts which I haven't check but look to by 16mm, there's 4 bolts 14mm holding the two half's together.

fatpiggy

I wouldnt seperate the caliper, ie undo those 4 bolts and split it.There is a few seals between each half and you would need to replace those once you pull it apart.You cant use reuse the old seals.

Fatpiggy

disneyjoe7

Yes the caliper doesn't need to be pulled apart, ie the 4 bolts. But can be removed whole via the larger 2 bolts holding the whole caliper to the turn buckle or what ever Toyota calls it.

fatpiggy

Looks like you have worked it out.Personally I would use original Toyota parts, aftermarket stuff isnt that good.I know its expensive using toyota parts but from experince you will get the best performance from original parts.Good luck with the job.

Fatpiggy

billbillw

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/maintenance/brakes/

Seems like a good writeup

fatpiggy

yeah thats where I goggled the pictures from, I just edited them to show the points mentioned.I dont own this model but have worked on lots of 4 x 4's.Use to be a Tech now retired.

Fatpiggy

disneyjoe7

Got it done, remove the 17mm bolts and remove the horseshoe clip. After that you can move the caliper, I didn't need to break the brake line. Overall smooth, and quick it took me about 1.5hr, not bad since I don't have any air tools.

gdb

Cool, I like success stories !:cool:

fatpiggy

I was wondering how you got on with that brake job.Glad you sorted it out ok...

Fatpiggy

disneyjoe7

Sorry for the delay, I order them weeks ago and they where coming from California but where out of stock on the rotors. They where coming from England on a slow boat as I heard, I just got the parts Monday night.