How to figure a subwoofer cab size...
Comments
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FYI, those drivers should be grouped closer together. Guessing by the parts count, you're using shallow slopes, which requires the drivers to be within a certain distance of each other for the best integration. For example, if the crossover frequency of the mid to woofer is 700hz, the center to center distance should be 8.5". With steep slopes(4th order+), this is less of an issue.
Mike,
Do you have a link to a page with more info on this or a fomula?Wristwatch--->Crisco -
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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OOOO!!!! Spiffy!Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
So at 300hz XO point the drivers should be ~ 19.6" apart?Wristwatch--->Crisco -
Wow you folks have covered a lot of ground,so much for defering to doro's simplistic non techno babble don't "over think" it approach.:D
Do you mean increase as in lower or higher f3?
Lastly, if you are, again, going to reference Qtc, get it straight. F3 increases for values ABOVE OR BELOW 0.707.
And Shin is correct, higher Qtc values (in the >1 range)are more likely to result in a one note "boomy" response.
Whoa,pull that finger off the trigger and put the safety on,nothing he posted required that response.You should stop cutting and pasting from websites and talking out your butt before you hurt your brain.
For more reading google lobing in loudspeakers.Lobing is basically interference between two drivers resulting in their sound changing depending on listening axis.As Mike alluded to keeping the driver spacing close in relation to crossover frequency (and increasing the xover slope)will reduce the severity of the lobing. Aswell the two drivers will function more like a single point source instead of two separate sources.Mike,
Do you have a link to a page with more info on this or a fomula? -
That's the maximum center to center distance for good integration with shallow slopes.So at 300hz XO point the drivers should be ~ 19.6" apart?
Thanks for elaborating Fred.For more reading google lobing in loudspeakers.Lobing is basically interference between two drivers resulting in their sound changing depending on listening axis.As Mike alluded to keeping the driver spacing close in relation to crossover frequency (and increasing the xover slope)will reduce the severity of the lobing. Aswell the two drivers will function more like a single point source instead of two separate sources."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
Spam-o-licious!!!
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Huh?Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Huh?
There was a post (since removed) above russ's about "I love making things myself. I use (insert text with external link) for all my stuffs"...
IE a spam post
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Gotcha!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Dan's got my six.....
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"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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However, I probably want to build a wood frame from some dowel. I'll learn more info at different sites and I think I'll do it.If you want to dress them up, you can get grill stanchions from Parts Express. Get a sheet of 1/2" or 1/4" MDF and cut rectangles to cover the front of the baffle for them. Then cut large rectangular holes, leaving some crosspieces for strength where they won't interfere with drivers. Get yourself some acoustically transparent speaker cloth, 3M trim adhesive and a staple gun (with staples). Cover the grill surfaces that the cloth will be stretched over with the adhesive. It keeps the cloth from slipping or getting tugged unevenly. Then, when the adhesive sets up and the cloth doesn't move, fold it over the side and staple it to the back. You can put adhesive on the sides as well if you want. Drill your holes for the grille stanchions and install them on the front of the baffle.
You could probably build a wood frame from some dowel or rip down a 1x4 or a couple of 1x2s into 1x1 inch pieces and make a removable framework to stretch some grille cloth over. It'll help keep dust and gunk from the garage off of the backs of the exposed drivers and the crossover network.
However, I probably want to build a wood frame from some dowel. I'll learn more info at different sites and I think I'll do it. -
This thread reminds me of a YouTube experiment where a ported box was built to house 15s in a car's hatch using their TS specs. It was quite large! The builder then fabed adapter plates to fit 4" subs where the 15s once we're. The output and response between the w were surprisingly close... I'll see if I can find it...
Here we go:
https://youtu.be/W5KuSIf78_o
The other one I could find:
https://youtu.be/W0QUloqPIyk
Post edited by FestYboy on -
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