What do you plug your gear into?

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Comments

  • JPSmario
    JPSmario Posts: 142
    edited October 2010
    see my sig. audio is quieter and the TV has blacker blacks
    Dual 1229/Grado Gold/Rotel RCD1070/RC995/RB980BX/Pioneer 7100/Denon DRM710/Monster HTS3600MKII/PolkAudio SDA2B/TL's
  • TrashyTrucker
    TrashyTrucker Posts: 225
    edited October 2010
    I am running the panamax Max 5100. To those that think they dont have enough outlets.
    I spoke with someone at panamax years ago and they said to "daisy chain" a seperate module into a always on plugin, or switched plugin on the max. Then you can add extras such as dvdp and such. That is what I do anyway.
    I also have a deicated 20 amp line ran just for the max to do its job. I also run the amps on switched delay through the max as well. The panamax is designed to shut itself down if there is a certain drop or increase in voltage. Before I rewired my entire house I had another max at the time. But that one with the help from max tech help, said I must have "dirty power"
    I found out that the max kept shutting itself down because there was a loose netural connection in its path. HA! I tighten it up and everything on the panel and etc. and never had another problem since. After I rewired, I gave the max its own circuit.

    Matt
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited October 2010
    Equitech 1RQ (Model Q) balanced power. Absolutely awesome power unit. Improved the sound and picture of my rig dramatically. Highly recommended.

    Greg
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited October 2010
    Currently a Monster HTS 2600, but my goal is to move to a PS Audio Soloist with a professional grade power strip for the distribution.
  • sandworms
    sandworms Posts: 1,043
    edited October 2010
    Belikin Pure AV
    Samsung pn64f8500
    Sonus faber venere 2.5
    Sf venere center
    Oppo 105d
    Squeezebox touch
    Parasound hca1500a
    Apc power filter
    Audioquest cables asst
    Polk rtia3 SB
    Polk fxia6 sl,sr
    Dual hsu vtf3 mk3

  • B Run
    B Run Posts: 1,888
    edited October 2010
    Monster HTS 2600, just picked it up last week off craigslist for $75!
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2010
    I am running the panamax Max 5100. To those that think they dont have enough outlets.
    I spoke with someone at panamax years ago and they said to "daisy chain" a seperate module into a always on plugin, or switched plugin on the max. Then you can add extras such as dvdp and such. That is what I do anyway.
    I also have a deicated 20 amp line ran just for the max to do its job. I also run the amps on switched delay through the max as well. The panamax is designed to shut itself down if there is a certain drop or increase in voltage. Before I rewired my entire house I had another max at the time. But that one with the help from max tech help, said I must have "dirty power"
    I found out that the max kept shutting itself down because there was a loose netural connection in its path. HA! I tighten it up and everything on the panel and etc. and never had another problem since. After I rewired, I gave the max its own circuit.

    Matt

    ...I lost ya
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited October 2010
    I have a Richard Gray Pole Pig plugged into a RGPC 600 which is plugged into the dedicated 20 amp wall socket. All the front end pieces are plugged into the pig and the amps are plugged into the 600. Speakers are plugged into the 600 and subs directly to wall.

    Gordon
    2 Channel -
    Martin Logan Spire, 2 JL Audio F112 subs
    McIntosh C1000 Controller with Tube pre amp, 2 MC501 amplifiers, MD1K Transport & DAC, MR-88 Tuner
    WireWorld Eclipse 6.0 speaker wire and jumpers, Eclipse 5^2 Squared Balanced IC's. Silver Eclipse PCs (5)
    Symposium Rollerblocks 2+ (16)Black Diamond Racing Mk 3 pits (8)
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited October 2010
    jaxwired wrote: »
    BTW, how do you like your Fritz Carbons? From what I've ready I suspect they are very Dynaudio-like. How long have you had them?

    I love the Carbon 7's. Had them since the end of March. Laid back, excellent midrange, and surprising bass--and my room is large. My wife constantly says she likes them far better than the Energy C-9's. She was skeptical at first.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • lakesailor
    lakesailor Posts: 319
    edited October 2010
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Richard Grey 400pro power supply.

    Same ! Nice unit. I bought two but only need one in case anyone needs a good deal on a second unit. very good quality power supply.
  • orrb_05
    orrb_05 Posts: 215
    edited October 2010
    Cheapo Belkin and AR power strips. But, I would like a sexy Monster Cable power conditioner so all my friends can say "WoW".
  • salasg
    salasg Posts: 172
    edited October 2010
    HT is plugged into Monster Power 1600. 2 Channel (SDA 1C's with Onkyo amp/Adcom pre/ Sony SCD 333ES SACD) plugged into Monster Power 2600. Would like to move up to something better but funds don't permit..........yet. :D
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,055
    edited October 2010
    What are the dangers of plugging an AMP directly into a wall outlet...worse case scenario? I had my amp into a Monster 3500 but recently was doing a comparison between the wall and power conditoner...to see if there is any sonic difference...
  • Earthy
    Earthy Posts: 488
    edited October 2010
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    I had my amp into a Monster 3500 but recently was doing a comparison between the wall and power conditoner...to see if there is any sonic difference...

    What were your results?
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Parasound Halo A21
    Parasound Halo P3

    Home theater
    Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
    Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
    SVS PB12-ISD Sub
    Denon AVR-X6400h
    Parasound Halo A51
    LG OLED65B7A
    Sony UBPX800
    Logitech Harmony Elite
    PC LSiM 703
    Spare LSIM 702 and 706c

    Home Theater #2
    Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
    Onkyo TX-NR808



  • bopicasso
    bopicasso Posts: 878
    edited October 2010
    I use a Balanced Power Technologies Clean Power Center w/ a HCF-30 upgrade. I use 3 Pangea power cords and one Balanced Power Technologies C7 power cord.
    http://www.b-p-t.com/
    Living Room setup: Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH, Krell KAV 300i, PS Audio DL III DAC, Tyler Acoustics Taylo 7u, Dynaudio Audience 120C+, SVS 25/31PCI, B-P-T Clean Power Center, Ps3, Panny 50" S1 Plasma, Tekline speaker cables, Audio Art interconnects, and Pangea power cables.
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,055
    edited October 2010
    Earthy wrote: »
    What were your results?

    I am going to do some more testing tonite and post some impressions.
    Last night I think my ears were a bit plugged, so it was hard to tell...
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,055
    edited October 2010
    Last night I did quite of bit of A-B comparison testing of my amp (Parasound 2003) plugged directly into the wall outlet vs. plugging the amp directly into a power conditioner (Monster 3500). I listened to songs from Deerhunter (Microcastle album), Talking Heads (77 album), and The Doors (Soft Parade album). I used a total of 5 songs from these albums for my very informal, unscientific test, and here is a summary of my impressions:

    1. For the most part, powering the amp through the power conditioner (PC), gave music a mono-effect - less imaging and depth.
    2. Powering the amp through the PC made the Talking Heads songs sound "brighter", and everything sounded higher (if this makes sense) - bass was not a deep, mids sounded higher, David Byrne's voice sounded higher to me. Anyone familiar with RTiA9 series and the overall Talking Heads sound would probably agree that an increase in the 'brightness factor' is a bad thing here.
    3. Overall, all songs had more punch, depth, and volume to them when the amp was plugged directly into the wall. It almost seemed the PC was restricting the power being fed to the amp.

    Again, these are some impessions from a novice, and everyones ears are a bit different. I DO look forward to the 3 home-made power cables a fellow Polkie (Vr3MxStyler2k3) was nice enough to build me at cost. I look forward to replacing the stock power cords in my CDP, PRE, and AMP one at a time and checking to see if these yield any improvements. I think one of the coolest things about this hobby is you really do not have to spend a ton of money to try some of these tweaks out. :)
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited October 2010
    All of my gear is plugged into an APC H10 surge protector/voltage regulator. I've been very happy with it. Does a nice job of protecting my gear...without coloring the sound at all. The blue LED's on the front also make for some good ambiance when I'm doing some critical listening with the lights turned down. :)

    I plan to eventually upgrade to a PS Audio Powerplant Premier due to the overwhelming amount of positive feedback I've read on it...but that upgrade is still far off in the future.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • yepimonfire
    yepimonfire Posts: 256
    edited October 2010
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    What are the dangers of plugging an AMP directly into a wall outlet...worse case scenario? I had my amp into a Monster 3500 but recently was doing a comparison between the wall and power conditoner...to see if there is any sonic difference...

    lightning storms? i've never noticed any sonic differences in power conditioners, i think they are a waste of money.
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2010
    I just got a Monster HTS 1650 so that is what I use.
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • Ric5811
    Ric5811 Posts: 400
    edited October 2010
    Belkin PF 60, love it.
    Polk RTi A7's FrontPolk CSi A4 CenterPolk Tsi 100's SurroundOnkyo TX-RZ50:)Oppo BDP 83 (Collecting dust)MIT Terminator 3 Speaker CableMIT Terminator 2 IC's (Oppo 2 chan)Signal Cable HT TWOEpson PowerLite Home Cinema 1080Hisense 55 U8GBelkin PF 60 Power Center
  • jhw59
    jhw59 Posts: 348
    edited October 2010
    amp and cd player as well the entire HT rig (via a surge protector) into Acme Audio Cryogenically Treated Outlets. A real QPR, IMO.
  • schutz2106
    schutz2106 Posts: 115
    edited October 2010
    Into about a 13 yr old surge protector that i am sure doesnt do much except give me one button to turn off when storms come. I fiqure if I get hit by lightning, etc its a good time to buy something new.
    Klipsch RF7-II
    Klipsch RC64-II
    Klipsch RC62-II

    Onkyo TX-SR805
    Dish 722 dvr
    Sony BDPS370 Blue Ray
    Samsung 52b750 LCD Tv
    Panasonic DVD Recorder
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,102
    edited October 2010
    Are ANY of the "surge suppressors" NOT made in China?

    I don't have access to the high-end stuff; and maybe the top-shelf gear isn't made by fifty-cent labor using ten-cent parts. Anything available around here is a joke.

    Mondial used to talk about the amount of current-limiting created by typical surge suppressors. Claimed they were unsuitable for heavy loads such as power amps. True???

    My amps are plugged into dedicated wall sockets each linked by 25 feet of ten-gauge wire to individual circuit breakers in a new-ish circuit breaker box; which itself is linked to a transformer in the alley by newer 200-amp cable. Everything else is plugged into a cheap-**** surge suppressor which is connected by another dedicated wall outlet and 10-gauge wire to the dedicated circuit breaker. No voltage drop there.

    My only real concern with the wiring was whether to pull all the power for the audio/video equipment from the same 110V leg of the 220V input power. In the end, I chose to split the power so some outlets pull from one leg, and some outlets pull from the other leg. I was afraid that if all the power amps were pulling from the same phase, it'd unbalance the AC power and that phase would droop.
  • comfortablycurt
    comfortablycurt Posts: 6,745
    edited October 2010
    schutz2106 wrote: »
    Into about a 13 yr old surge protector that i am sure doesnt do much except give me one button to turn off when storms come. I fiqure if I get hit by lightning, etc its a good time to buy something new.


    Word of warning...Simply turning it off isn't really going to protect you from a big power surge in the event of a lightning strike or something like that. The surge will still be able to travel through the lines and into your gear. It would likely do better if left on...since the surge protection system can disconnect the circuit in the event of detecting a power surge.

    The only sure fire way to protect your system from power surges is disconnecting it from the wall completely.
    The nirvana inducer-
    APC H10 Power Conditioner
    Marantz UD5005 universal player
    Parasound Halo P5 preamp
    Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
    PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
    Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited October 2010
    Keiko wrote: »
    I plug my gear into something like this:

    eab714b053.jpg

    :rolleyes:

    That actually got my attention :p
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,287
    edited October 2010
    My gear plugs into (2)-Furman Elite 15PFi
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • veerapaneni
    veerapaneni Posts: 112
    edited October 2010
    I plug them directly to wall sockets