My DIY 2 channel: Next component

2»

Comments

  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited October 2010
    Ricardo wrote: »
    I built this crosscut sled. HIGHLY recommended, and you can cut at any angle.

    http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx


    DSC_0002-5.jpg

    I have a pdf worksheet on how to build one of those. Some day.

    Currently I built a few different angles that I can clamp to the fence. That is how I do my miter cuts.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • megasat16
    megasat16 Posts: 3,521
    edited October 2010
    I can't say working with Table saw is a dangerous job but I know a lot of people are working on one everyday and an accident can occur any minute with a slight mistake.

    If I have to resaw bigger stocks, I will get a band saw. I'll always use a track saw system like EZSmart or Festools for panel cutting or any angle cutting. And I use compound sliding miter saw which can cut 24" panels across for any angle.

    You can never be too careful even if you are a regular table saw worker. And kickbacks are typical in table saw system.

    For me, safety always comes first before anything else if I have a choice.
    Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited October 2010
    Not for the faint of heart....

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGroj2qllwc

















































    Yes, fake ;)
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited October 2010
    Another shop nicety:

    The Dust Deputy.

    149951_400.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • megasat16
    megasat16 Posts: 3,521
    edited October 2010
    Ricardo wrote: »
    Not for the faint of heart....

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGroj2qllwc
    Saw stop to the rescue. :) I hope it works when you really need it.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3mzhvMgrLE
    Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited November 2010
    Doing the x-overs in three sub components (so far the woofer and tweeter circuits are done). Waiting on a few resistors for the mids...

    5205394141_e10c6703a5.jpg

    5205992090_66730aef68.jpg

    Using 14AWG and doing a lead wrap around it and then solder:

    5206030158_efcc599162.jpg

    Will connect to a bi-ampable plate.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited January 2011
    Dry fit is happening!

    5362183074_4981876cb5.jpg

    The dado's are lining up and everything so far is spot on flush.
    5361573383_2c692455eb.jpg

    The Rockwell jaw horse is awesome. Using it as a dado jig. The Hitachi
    with 3/4" flush bit is just smooth as silk. Effortless. If I can avoid it I will
    never dado with the table saw.
    5361575167_5f0f1bce8e.jpg

    5362186852_1a6fa4d0b9.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited January 2011
    Looking good so far.

    I would only ask, why didn't you use a blank circuit board for the crossovers? It would look neater.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,448
    edited January 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    Looking good so far.

    I would only ask, why didn't you use a blank circuit board for the crossovers? It would look neater.

    I was going to ask the same thing. Using pegboard for the crossover reqires more effort than the proper tagboard. It just deminishes the effort made IMHO.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited January 2011
    Breadboard wouldn't have the right gauge of hole through. Preprinted PCB's take up too much space since their layouts are generic in nature and I can't keep my leads as short.

    I used the pre-printed PCB's from Madisound for my Zaph builds and just not that thrilled. It's a preference thing.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited January 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    Looking good so far.

    I would only ask, why didn't you use a blank circuit board for the crossovers? It would look neater.

    They are going inside the cabinet:biggrin:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,448
    edited January 2011
    jinjuku wrote: »
    Breadboard wouldn't have the right gauge of hole through...

    That is what the correct drill bit is for. If you can handle a mitre cut, a drill should be fairly easy.:rolleyes:

    Guage, BTW has to do with thickness of a material. Diameter is used when describing hole size.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited January 2011
    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    That is what the correct drill bit is for. If you can handle a mitre cut, a drill should be fairly easy.:rolleyes:

    Guage, BTW has to do with thickness of a material. Diameter is used when describing hole size.

    I understand. When I do custom Molex or IDC the holes can handle up to a certain 'gauge':rolleyes: It's just generally how the stuff is referred too. When you go to Digikey, Mouser, Jameco and look at connectors and such they will tell you the size and spacing offset. They will also tell you what gauge wire they can handle.

    I'm not exactly sure what the issue is with using peg-board. I have used bread and pre-printed PCB's and my personal preference is not to for X-overs.

    If I really wanted to I could use EasyPCB, do a layout and have it printed at PCB-Pool.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited January 2011
    nooshinjohn wrote: »
    It just diminishes the effort made IMHO.
    :rolleyes:

    While it may not be as neat as a PC board it does not diminish the performance in anyway as long as the coils are oriented to avoid mutual coupling and parts are secured tightly to the board.
    btw.I assume you intend to add some hot glue along with the wire ties to keep those components secure.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited January 2011
    FTGV wrote: »
    :rolleyes:

    While it may not be as neat as a PC board it does not diminish the performance in anyway as long as the coils are oriented to avoid mutual coupling and parts are secured tightly to the board.
    btw.I assume you intend to add some hot glue along with the wire ties to keep those components secure.

    Hot glue has been used throughout. You probably can't tell from the pic's but the caps are all hot glued together. Doing the x-overs in three sections will eliminate any cross talk because I can space them out. Again pre-printed PCBs end up being a bit of a space waster. If there was any improvement to be gained mechanically, electronically, audibly I sure would have used PCB board.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2011
    Point to point is better than PCB's.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited February 2011
    One cabinet glued up...

    5461533613_e26b1342f5.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Bassphil
    Bassphil Posts: 136
    edited February 2011
    Great job. I wish I had the time to build some Spender SP1 clones :-)
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited March 2011
    Coming along....

    I'm really liking the versatility of the jawhorse. Used it to hold the cabinets so I could flush trim the baffles.

    It's been a bear to dado EVERYTHING but well worth it for the structural rigidity it has provided. Plus I believe I have dado's down to a science now so all future builds will benefit. Time to redo my Zaph 3.5's?

    5533889682_a3eaf6c8ae_z.jpg

    5533088125_98265863e2_z.jpg

    5533670372_dc992dde4b_z.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited March 2011
    Bassphil wrote: »
    Great job. I wish I had the time to build some Spender SP1 clones :-)

    Thanks:smile: Is there a sight with build plans for the Spendor's?

    Time is what you make of it. An hour here, an hour there.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • polkfarmboy
    polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
    edited April 2011
    Great project you have here bud, I cant wait to see the finished results

    Question _ how does one test a home made speaker ?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited April 2011
    polkfarmboy wrote: »
    Great project you have here bud, I cant wait to see the finished results

    Question _ how does one test a home made speaker ?

    Me either:biggrin:

    First is to simply mount the speakers on the baffle, connect the x-overs and play some sweeps/FFT and measure the response. Tweak if needed.

    Next I'll dry fit the baffle to the cabinet and clamp. Again sweeps and real program material. If all that is fine it's final glue up.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited April 2011
    Nice looking build you have going there.Hope you have a good mask to deal with all that nasty MDF dust.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited April 2011
    FTGV wrote: »
    Nice looking build you have going there.Hope you have a good mask to deal with all that nasty MDF dust.


    Thx.

    Yeppers. I have a paint mask with charcoal filtration. Need to find a router with dust colleciton. Try to do as much outside as I can.

    The table saw has a cyclone + shopvac. Does a great job.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited April 2011
    Ah, another weekend at home and work progresses on these bad boys. Got really aggressive with the chamfer. I really don't want any restrictions around the drivers and felt I could do better than a simple 45 or round over.

    5604191709_6245373c9e.jpg

    5604192297_6259f9f121.jpg

    5604776696_cb0343360f.jpg

    Next is round over the front edge, install the port and terminal cup. Then onto paint.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited May 2011
    Some more progress pics...

    Just finished another coat of paint and still a bit wet...
    5717592110_bb4caea45c.jpg



    Da backs'

    5717591774_c7587c941d.jpg
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter