Bi Amping

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  • Vital
    Vital Posts: 747
    edited September 2010
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    Me personally - i'd never have midbass at 500Hz, that IS was too much but most of them are rated for it that's why i said up to 500Hz.
    As for a sub - i guess u're one of those true sq freaks (and i don't mean it as a bad word) lol. I know people that cross their subs at 40-60 area but to me it's just moving air. While it might be the "proper" set-up i don't see my sub ever being crossed that low. 80-100, sometimes (when in ported enclosure) even 120 but not 40 lol.
    MY ideal dedicated midbass is 100-200Hz area but it all also depends on what speakers u have in what car.
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1
  • KaosTsoc
    KaosTsoc Posts: 372
    edited September 2010
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    Ok. Yeah my knowledge base at the moment is kind of low, but that is what research is all about. No offense take no worries. As for kick panels, (I did not mention it in my last post) I like the idea of them, but do not want to take up the room by my feet. The truck has not cruise control on it, so when I drive a long distance, I would rather have the foot room. Dont get me wrong they are a great idea in all, just takes up to much space for me. I think for the moment I will go with one set of comps, and then the 12's. I might get a HU that has TA as well, and then a processor for tuning. Not sure which one.




    Thanks.
    2006 Prerunner Access Cab
    5 Speed 4 cycl 2wd

    Audio:
    Pioneer P860 Head Unit
    Polk Audio MM6501
    Alpine PDX F-6
    Two SR124(SVC)
    Alpine PDX M12
    Kinetik HC2000 battery and Sleeve
    200 Amp Mean Green High Output Alternator




    Need a DJ, photobooth, or both for rent?

    http://photoboothdallas.org
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited September 2010
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    Vital wrote: »
    midbass is somewhere in between bass and midrange - from 100Hz to 250, even 500Hz

    No. Mid-bass is about 80-300hz. 500hz is squarely midrange.
    Vital wrote: »
    Subs aren't supposed to produce frequencies above 100-120Hz

    No. Subs are not supposed to play anything audible above 70hz. Ofcourse assuming you're trying to prevent sub localisation. If that isn't the objective or if you're clueless on the concept then sure, run the sub to 120hz.
    Vital wrote: »
    and most fullrange speakers don't do too well in 100-250Hz area even if they are rated to go as low as 40-60-80Hz.

    No. Most 6.5" driver do great in the 100-250hz range. They struggle in the 40-60hz range. Which is another reason why this is the range for the baton exchange. Again an alien concept probably.
    Vital wrote: »
    Besides that the lower the frequency the more power/wattage it needs to be "heard" - hence the reason 90% of speakers are up to 100W rms while 99% of subwoofers are above 100W rms. If u have 100W tweeters and 100W subs playing side by side those tweets will pierce your ears while sub will be literally silent (in comparission to tweets)

    No. :rolleyes:

    Vital wrote: »
    Your dedicated midbass speakers (they usually come in either 6.5'' or 8'' size) will play from 100-120Hz to 250-500Hz depending on what they are and how u tune them

    No. In a 3 way front stage your mid-bass would typically play from the 50 to 63 starting point to about 315hz range.
    Vital wrote: »
    Your 12'' sub will play up to 100-120Hz
    :rolleyes::rolleyes:
    Vital wrote: »
    As for a sub - i guess u're one of those true sq freaks (and i don't mean it as a bad word) lol. I know people that cross their subs at 40-60 area but to me it's just moving air.

    Well genius please enlighten us what a transducer should do apart from moving air.......:D

    I stayed out of this thread cause D'skip and kawizx9r were doing a great job. However nearly all your posts are ridden with basic factual errors, forget about the interpretation and implementation bits. The cherry on the cake is your attitude. Sure you're probably a step above kaos but but make sure of your facts before you try and teach someone.
  • Vital
    Vital Posts: 747
    edited September 2010
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    which manual am i suppose to check my "facts" with??
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited September 2010
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    Vital wrote: »
    which manual am i suppose to check my "facts" with??

    :) point taken. Just hang around and over time, you will be able to put together your own manual. I was also a bit rough on my last post. We have all had our share of boo boo's over time (probably I've made the most :D).
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
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    Never mind I just noticed this is for car audio!
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited September 2010
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    Never mind I just noticed this is for car audio!

    Yeah, things are slightly different in a car, Joe ;)
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
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    arun1963 wrote: »
    Yeah, things are slightly different in a car, Joe ;)

    Yeah no kidding Bro. I didn't realize it was a car audio thread until after I posted. I use to be big on car audio but now I just don't see the point.;):) Although I have to say after hearing some of the audio rigs in cars at the Corporate Polkfest, I was astounded as to how far it has come. I just don't spend enough time in the car to appreciate it plus it takes away from my 2 ch budget which always comes first in purchases and tweaks. HT rig is in second place.