Did my tv or wall amp blow out???

digitalvideo

Ok, to simplify...

I guess there are two options,

1.) replace the AFCI breaker with a non-AFCI breaker and keep everything else in place at 15amp.

or

2.) new dedicated circuit 20A circuit, 20A breaker, 20Amp outlet, 12/2 wiring

lightman1

digitalvideo wrote: »

I'm not a electrician, no one in my family is, we will have to contact a licensed certified electrician for this. Would it just be easier to replace the breaker with a different brand?

Nope.

lightman1

digitalvideo wrote: »

I'm not a electrician, no one in my family is, we will have to contact a licensed certified electrician for this. Would it just be easier to replace the breaker with a different brand?

With a different brand? No. It's not a matter of brand name, but what it's designed to do.

lightman1

Serendipity wrote: »

Otherwise it's a fire hazard.

Only if the unbalanced load from one circuit exceeds the opposing circuit. And then only if you are running, say, a 115v MIG welder against an alarm clock. Check the sine-waves if you are so inclined.

lightman1

digitalvideo wrote: »

I been doing a little studying of my breaker box and the wires. The 15amp breaker that keeps tripping is powering my Comcast HD cable, well that cable wire is also connected to a 4-way splitter that connects to other tv's and internet in multiple rooms, but the tv's upstairs that have Comcast too are powered by a different breaker but they're all connected to the same splitter.

Two totally different systems. No worries there. Fork it! Are you on the east coast? PM me if you need me to come over.

lightman1

Serendipity wrote: »

Here in the US the 14/2 refers to a #14 wire with hot, neutral, and ground conductors. A 12/2 cable includes a #12 hot, neutral, and ground also.

At most local hardware stores (Home Depot, Lowe's) you can buy 14/3 and 12/3, but that's used for 240V circuits which has four conductors.

I haven't seen a BX or Romex cable that was 12/2 or 14/2 without a ground.

Hey Alex... The ground wire is not a conductor. Think about it. It's a short to true earth ground. Remember, voltage is lazy and will find the shortest path to earth.

TECHNOKID

lightman1 wrote: »

Hey Alex... The ground wire is not a conductor. Think about it. It's a short to true earth ground. Remember, voltage is lazy and will find the shortest path to earth.

I still consider as a conductor, if you don't have a path (conductor) to earth well nothing goes to earth (or else takes the next shortest path).

Definition: A conductor is a material which permits a flow of energy. A material which allows the flow of charged particles is an electrical conductor. A material which allows the transfer of thermal energy is a thermal conductor or heat conductor.

Serendipity

Some of us (myself included) are posting some way over-thought engineering analyses. I guess that's what happens when you're in school...

digitalvideo

Since no one answered this above, is this pretty much what I need to do in layman's terms below:

I guess there are two options,

1.) replace the AFCI breaker with a non-AFCI breaker and keep everything else in place at 15amp.

or

2.) new dedicated circuit 20A circuit, 20A breaker, 20Amp outlet, 12/2 wiring

???

Serendipity

1. I personally wouldn't replace the AFCI breaker with a non-AFCI breaker simply because it was put there by the previous homeowner or home builder. I would think it was put there for a reason, whether it be to comply with building codes (in NYC you only need them in bedroom circuits) or for DoB regulations.

I would try replacing the AFCI breaker with another AFCI.

2. A dedicated 20A circuit, with a 20A breaker and 12/2 wire seems like the better option.

AFCI's shouldn't nuisance-trip with audio equipment. I haven't tripped any of mine.

Serendipity

Here is an example of AFCI circuits on a subpanel for H/T gear:

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102110

(scroll down halfway)

digitalvideo

Serendipity wrote: »

1. I personally wouldn't replace the AFCI breaker with a non-AFCI breaker simply because it was put there by the previous homeowner or home builder. I would think it was put there for a reason, whether it be to comply with building codes (in NYC you only need them in bedroom circuits) or for DoB regulations.

I'm the original home owner, the basement was done over in January and a entirely new breaker box was put in with all new electrical through out the basement.

Serendipity

Then I would assume the AFCI breaker was placed there for a reason.

You should get a book on basic household wiring - even if you are going to hire an electrician, it's a good idea to understand how things work and have some knowledge about electrical safety.

I wouldn't start replacing an AFCI with a non-AFCI breaker (most of the time, the neutral will be too short as there is a pigtail coming out of the AFCI and the wires will be the same length). And AFCI's are required by code in some places.

How about contact an electrician for a 2nd opinion?

digitalvideo

Thanks for all the info, I wanted to get your opinions and ideas first to see if I could do the project myself, but it looks like it's best to let a certified licensed electrician to handle this.

rjames

thanks for the info and the link Serendipity

digitalvideo

My computer on the other side of the room is plugged into a different breaker amp, a 20amp. So my computer, computer speakers, computer sub, printer and main hub for all my Comcast house equipment is plugged into it i.e. moden, router etc. I have all of it plugged into a 15amp Panamax surge suppressor floor strip. Is it dangerous to use a 15 amp surge suppressor for a 20amp breaker and vice versa?

mmadden28

digitalvideo wrote: »

My computer on the other side of the room is plugged into a different breaker amp, a 20amp. So my computer, computer speakers, computer sub, printer and main hub for all my Comcast house equipment is plugged into it i.e. moden, router etc. I have all of it plugged into a 15amp Panamax surge suppressor floor strip. Is it dangerous to use a 15 amp surge suppressor for a 20amp breaker and vice versa?

No it's fine. On the other hand plugging in a 20A device into a 15A outlet-that would not be good. Of course you shouldn't be able to since the plugs would be different anyway.

By the way get out of the habit of calling it a breaker amp. Its a circuit breaker rated at 20 amps or a 20 amp (20A) breaker.

mmadden28

Here's a good book to read to get some more info:
Wiring Simplified avail at Amazon and Home Depot for less than $10.

It may not be as basic as the Wiring 1-2-3 books, but provides much more detail and to me is much more useful.

digitalvideo

Which wire gauge size is best suited for medium to large size home theaters? Would it be a 10 gauge or 12/2 gauage or?

mmadden28

Well a 15A circuit requires at least 14 gauge, 20A requires at least 12, 30A requires 10 and so on.

If you're having a new line run, run at least 12 whether you decide to go with a 15 or 20A circuit. Or you would increase the gauge if you have a really long run such as over 100'
The '/2' in 12/2 is the number of service conductors (neutral/hot) not including the ground.
12/2 has 3 physical wires each 12 gauge solid copper wire [1 Neutral (White), 1 Hot (Black) and 1 Ground (Bare)].
12/3 would have 4 physical wires [1 Neutral, 2 Hot (1 Black, 1 Red) and 1 Ground]

14/2 or 14/3 is the same concept just a different size wire.

/3 is used for 240V appliances, split receptacles, as well as 3,4 way light switches, etc. - Typically not run to standard outlets or lighting where /2 is used.