Capacitor in crossover bad?

fishbones
fishbones Posts: 947
edited August 2010 in Troubleshooting
I recently did some digging in my parents garage of some of my first gear pieces from 20yrs ago. They were in a hot garage that gets humidity (S. Florida). The speakers were an inexspensive bookshelf speaker - BIC Venturi. They look in perfect shape (kept in a cabinet). Drivers and crossover look absolutely new, but...when I hooked them up to my main system they crackled and cut-out at all volumes. Both did it equally. Literally, the only thing on the crossover is 1 capacitor to seperate the tweeter and the midrange. The value is a 2.2uf - 100v.

I tried to get one at the rat shack today but they didn't have it. Before I go ordering online, do you think that is what it could be? And if so, while I'm doing it anyway, is there another cap that would be better to use for a couple bucks more than the electolytic they came with?
..... ><////(*>
Post edited by fishbones on
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    Is there also an L-Pad somewhere?

    Here's a replacement cap: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-415
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    Hey Face,

    You know I was thinking about you when I was taking these audio components apart to revive them. Especially when I was tearing apart my Yamaha Natural Sound CD player to fix a coax jack that's cutting in and out to resolder it. Thinking Face would be proud of me for diving in...if I don't mess it up.

    Back to the story. Oh yeah, sorry, there is coiled copper wired thingy under a black sheath. Is that an L-pad?

    And, so I start understanding this stuff, I can go higher on the voltage on the cap as long as the other value stays the same?

    thanks,
    ..... ><////(*>
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  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    Here's some pics if it helps...

    0031.jpg
    0061.jpg

    I think it would be a fun DIY project to upgrade the drivers too, but will probably have to wait, since I'm saving up for some SDA's! :D
    ..... ><////(*>
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    edited August 2010
    I think it would be a fun DIY project to upgrade the drivers too

    No offense, but I think the whole deal is a waste of time and money, especially since you are trying to save up.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    No offense, but I think the whole deal is a waste of time and money, especially since you are trying to save up.

    Why, do you think its more than the cap?
    ..... ><////(*>
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    edited August 2010
    No, more like they are not worth 10 cents.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    fishbones wrote: »
    Back to the story. Oh yeah, sorry, there is coiled copper wired thingy under a black sheath. Is that an L-pad?

    And, so I start understanding this stuff, I can go higher on the voltage on the cap as long as the other value stays the same?
    That's an inductor.

    Higher voltage is fine as long as the microfarads are the same.

    I wouldn't attempt to upgrade the drivers, it's much more complex than you would think. Replace the cap, if that doesn't fix them, it's time to move on.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    Face wrote: »
    That's an inductor.

    Higher voltage is fine as long as the microfarads are the same.

    I wouldn't attempt to upgrade the drivers, it's much more complex than you would think. Replace the cap, if that doesn't fix them, it's time to move on.

    Thanks for the help! ...and for being professional about it.
    I know they're not worth much at all, but if I can fix 'em easy and cheap, they could be set up for background music somewhere, or give them to my son for his room.

    I'll order the caps and see?
    ..... ><////(*>
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  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited August 2010
    For a couple bucks?--absolutely give it a try.
    Do the driver's move freely?
    Also check the connections--anywhere a cable connects to the driver or tweeter internally as well as the binding posts where you connect your spekaer cables. Clean them up, perhaps with some DeOxit if you have any.

    Have Fun!
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
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  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    CDP is fixed and playing right now! --with the help of my new soldering iron!

    Next, ordering caps for the speakers and installing 'em.

    Yes, checked the drivers, and they move freely. I'll clean up the connections with my Deoxit.

    Thanks guys!
    ..... ><////(*>
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  • Data Recovery
    Data Recovery Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Hi,

    The capacitors definitely gone badly as time passes and in your case a long time is passed.
    But they produce higher quality. You may try given URL for some sort of help.

    http://www.kef.com/history/1980/carlton3.asp

    Thanks
    Britt
    Data Recovery Software
    Data Recovery Services
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  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited August 2010
    Nice try DR
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
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  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    Data Recovery wrote: »
    Hi,

    The capacitors definitely gone badly as time passes and in your case a long time is passed.
    But they produce higher quality. You may try given URL for some sort of help.

    http://www.kef.com/history/1980/carlton3.asp

    Thanks
    Britt
    Data Recovery Software

    Your link isn't working?
    ..... ><////(*>
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  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited August 2010
    ***EDIT--Nevermind
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
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