My SDA adventure

2

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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited August 2010
    MAN SO HAPIEEEE..
    listening to dire straits - Money for Nothiing.. that song has the best climax right at the start of the song.
    man you can hear the guitar work coming from the seat right next to me.. this is fabulous.. Cant wait for the upgrades.
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  • nadams
    nadams Posts: 5,877
    edited August 2010
    Alan - Glad you've got the groove on. It's cool that Parasound recognizes SDA's... I don't think I've ever seen anything like that from another amp manufacturer.
    Ludicrous gibs!
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited August 2010
    More questions.
    1. If you have the bin/blade then they are at least 1.2's correct?
    2. On the end caps, If there is a split in them, can they be glued and then compressed together till it dries or should I look into new end caps? I would like to just polish them right now and leave them be and not pull off the sides etc.. for new wood untill later on down the line.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited August 2010
    thejck wrote: »
    MAN SO HAPIEEEE..
    listening to dire straits - Money for Nothiing.. that song has the best climax right at the start of the song.
    man you can hear the guitar work coming from the seat right next to me.. this is fabulous.. Cant wait for the upgrades.

    That takes me back . . . to December 1987!

    I took my Dire Straits CD to my local Audio Craft and Money Ain't for Nothing was the primary tune I used to audition various Polk and NAD combinations before pulling the trigger and buying my first SDA rig from them on the last day of that year. :)
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • bluecomet
    bluecomet Posts: 1,118
    edited August 2010
    Pin/Blade indecates it is at least a 1.2 SRS. Take one tweeter out and see if it has one skinny prong and one fat prong. If it does, it is a 1.2tl version. If the prongs are both skinny you have the 1.2 version.

    Yes you can reglue the end caps to look like new.

    Let us know how you make out. Either SRS version are great speakers.
    Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
    Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.

    Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp

    Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited August 2010
    I dont care to open my speakers up multiple times so I am trying to make plans to get it all at once.
    1. I am going to get dynamat for all the drivers to get that done.
    2. Can I leave the damping material thats in there the same and just glue it to the back so that it does not slip down or do I need to look into something like what Larry did with blackhole?
    3. Bracing might need to be reglued, does the cabinet need to be sealed in any other fashion?
    4. To seal the drivers and crossover plates, the best solution is Larry's rings? or is mortite a better option? or do I need to do both?
    5. Anything else?
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited August 2010
    Face wrote: »
    It's the addition of one cap, along with the RDO-198 tweeter: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26710&d=1186358580

    These are for the CRS, is it that simple for the 1.2's as well? Comparing the schema from the stickies on here the 1.2 and 1.2TL have a few things moved around.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2010
    No, two very different animals.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited August 2010
    Are the crossover boards for the 1.2 different from the board for the 1.2TL.. I am talking about just the actual design of the PCB and not the caps and resistors that plug into it?
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    OK crossovers will be done by Ben so that is out of the way. I pulled one of the croosvers off the speaker and noticed that the gasket was torn and will not go all the way around anymore. What is the best suggestion for this. Will mortite work here as well? I know there was some discussion about decoupling in the mortite thread of DK's.
    Also Any recommendations on what to clean the wood with? I was thinking off a Windex dampened cloth since it does not leave much of a residue compared to other products.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited September 2010
    Weather stripping from Home Depot with the adhesive peel n stick on one side. it looks just like what is on there..
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    Has anyone on here experimented with coating the insides of the speakers with a polyurethane like material to preserve the fiberboard. My understanding of fiberboard is that it eventully breaks down right?
    How would this effect the sonic capabilites of the speaker. This is something that could never be undone.
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    Will this kind of weather stripping work. It has a ridge in it so I am not sure. They have other stuff that is foam stripping.
    http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Weather-Stripping/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xjlZard7/R-100176894/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    Thanks Sal
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    The bass brace hole on the back of the speaker..

    The hole goes all the way through the cabinet?? I can see day light through the hole. Wont that defeat the air seal purpose?
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited September 2010
    There should be a 1/4-20 screw in the hole..
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    nope sure dont have one. Will need to go to home depot to look for one.
    Thanks
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  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited September 2010
    you can get that white stuff off the domes by getting a new medium toothbrush and very gently brush them in a circular motion, it may take some time but it will lighten to where its barely noticeable or go away completely.
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    Sal,
    I have the same white discoloration on my dust caps that you have. I will give it a shot.
    On one of my midwoofers the glue looks like is cracked slightly.Its not all the way through. just a surface crack. Should I be concerned?

    Lasareath wrote: »
    Alan...

    You can use Windex on the dust caps (the center part of the drivers). I have done it on all my Polk. Just be very careful and do not press too much of the surface in at the same time because the material may push inwards and will never come back out.

    Here's a before & after shot of mine:

    http://www.4u2me.com/polksrs2/images/IMG_0004.jpg

    www.4u2me.com/polksrs2/images/IMG_0011.jpg

    http://www.4u2me.com/polksrs2/images/IMG_0019.jpg

    www.4u2me.com/polksrs2/images/IMG_0021.jpg

    Sal
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited September 2010
    The white stuffing in the 1.2's how low from the top does it start. Does it go all the way to the top or does it start from lower?
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited October 2010
    the connector for the interconnects is slight loose. it wiggles around in there. Can I put some hot glue to firm it up?
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2010
    thejck wrote: »
    The white stuffing in the 1.2's how low from the top does it start. Does it go all the way to the top or does it start from lower?

    yes from the top
    thejck wrote: »
    the connector for the interconnects is slight loose. it wiggles around in there. Can I put some hot glue to firm it up?

    and yes;)
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited October 2010
    thanks Larry...

    got them dynamated and mortited..now just waiting for my crossovers.
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  • Neskahi
    Neskahi Posts: 297
    edited October 2010
    Hey CJK. Off topic but how is Robert liking the SRS's you drove down to get?
    I miss them.
    SDA 2.3/RDO's... xovers by Ben
    SDA 2.3TL/Stock..
    SDA 1C/Solens/RDO's [gave to my Uncle]
    SDA 2B RDO's
    Snell Type CV
    SDA 1.2TL's
    GFA7700 Adcom
    GFP750 Adcom
    TFM55X Carver
    M90 Pioneer/C90 Pre
    M91 x 2 Pioneers/C91 Pre
    Yaqin MC10l
    DCD-1520/1560/2560 Denon
    Marantz DVD-8400
    Carver m1.5T
    DV-79avi Pioneer
    TFM35X x 2
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited October 2010
    Neskahi wrote: »
    Hey CJK. Off topic but how is Robert liking the SRS's you drove down to get?
    I miss them.

    He loves them. His wife and one kid are kinda indifferent to them. But the other kid loves to listen to them with him.

    He has a set of Larry's rings that he wants to put in them and I am not sure if he will upgrade the caps to Sonic's or not. We were even talking about doing new wood panels on his and mine together.

    right now he is looking at upgrading his amp as his adcom just doesn't cut it. Maybe a Macintosh.

    I will tell him you said hi.
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited October 2010
    When plugging in the crossovers to the plate. the 2 wires running out of the inductor attached to the plate. Do they plug in any particular order?
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2010
    thejck wrote: »
    When plugging in the crossovers to the plate. the 2 wires running out of the inductor attached to the plate. Do they plug in any particular order?

    I marked mine but have been told it don't matter...
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  • thejck
    thejck Posts: 849
    edited October 2010
    Larry,
    I saw in ure upgrade thread that you had no counterweights on the back of ure passives. Whereas Sal had posted a pic of his with the counterweight. Did you ever figure out what the deal with that was?
    I believe mine do not have this as well.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,243
    edited October 2010
    As I can tell the 1.2's did not have the weights but the 1.2tl's did.

    I have a set of each now.
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  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,184
    edited October 2010
    It doesn't matter which wires go where on the inductor.

    Does this mean you got the crossovers back?!?!?!!!!
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's
    Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
    SDA 2B TL's
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