Which would you get?

PerfectCreature

I have a slight budget for a sub. My last sub-woofers I had died. They simply play the crackle bass now, instead of the boom bass.
Anyway, my car can't handle more than 350 watts without dimming lights (Roughly 25-30 amps)
Anyway, I have found the following subs to choose from that are not that pricey.
I want a sub that I can feel in my chest and sound nice as well.
Which of these would be best for that option, and which type of enclosure might I want to use.
Thanks in advance.

MTX JackHammer JH5512-04
MTX TR5510-44
Polk Audio db1240
JL Audio 12W0v2-4
Infinity 1260w

Those are the ones. The sub-woofers need to be around 300 watts RMS, and be 4 Ohm.
If anyone has any other suggestions, please let me know. Thanks. (Budget is 200 max for the sub)

chu

Why not opt for mm 12 they are about 180 a piece @ my local dealer. Also have you looked into jbl gto subs? They're fairly cheap, loud, and sound pretty good imo. I doubt you can "feel" the bass with 300rms with any of the subs mentioned imo.

Btw have you upgraded your grounds & battery?

PerfectCreature

I have had two 10 inch subwoofers getting 250 each....and they thumped pretty loud for being 10 inches....
I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money....As for the battery....I have an energizer....yep...no joke, an energizer car battery....it really just keeps going it's been in that car since 1998 I have the receipt from the old owner ha.
I have not bothered since the car will not last more than another year. I do, when I get my newer one plan on upgrading everything all over again...so....
Any particular model numbers I should be looking at?
Thanks.

809peter

In your case I definitely would go for the MM1240 or MM1040.
The MM series is well worth your money. They only require small enclosures (sealed).
I think that the MM1040 will fit your amp great (350 watts RMS).
I myself have a MM840DVC. A small 8", on a 300wRMS D-class amp. But it really gives good results. Take notice that I was only used to 12" subs from JBL Rockford and Kenwood.
But I've heard that the Polk subs are really designed for usage in sealed enclosures. So that could be a breaking point for you.
At last.... when you install... watch the gain.... keep it as low as possible. Also for the electric circuit in your car.

PerfectCreature

I have to keep the gain pretty high though for my subs to get any sound. My receiver doesnt have a subwoofer preout....
When I get my new HU. I am sure that will improve things a bit more.
Anyway. I will look at the polk line.
What about kicker?
I saw a deal on crutchfield where you can get 2 for 1.... they are 8 ohms so if I ran them together it would be 4 ohm load and they both have 150 each RMS...so.
What do people think of those?


(Where does everyone else buy thier subs online?)

chu

Are you dead set with getting 2 12s???

I mean, if you're going to upgrade everything next year, you should just settle for the one good sub as oppose for 2 decent subs. You can always pick up an extra sub next year if you want to. Let me know what you want to do, and I'll suggest more subs that you should look at depending on how you answer the question.

Also are you porting or going sealed?

SivaNevets

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7115_Polk+Audio+SR104-DVC.html
sonicelectronix has sr104 for 190$, and mm1240dvc for $140..
i bought almost all the car audio stuff from them..their service is great,product is great..
not polk authorized dealer but has 1 yr store warranty..

PerfectCreature

I forgot about SOnix....
Thanks. The Polk....I do not have enough power to give its full potential at the moment....
They have really cheap boxes....I was surprised at the price.

PerfectCreature

chu wrote: »

Are you dead set with getting 2 12s???

I mean, if you're going to upgrade everything next year, you should just settle for the one good sub as oppose for 2 decent subs. You can always pick up an extra sub next year if you want to. Let me know what you want to do, and I'll suggest more subs that you should look at depending on how you answer the question.

Also are you porting or going sealed?

You are right. I have been looking around and you can get some really nice subs that can do fairly well with what I have.
As for ported or closed? I guess it would depend on the sub. I want loud and tight bass. I listen to lots of bassy music.
I will be picking up a new amp as well. 400 watts is the new Max, I sold my kenwood amp for $100 yesterday. Made about $120 off the subs so....
I am set with getting one really nice subwoofer and adding another one later.

So with that said, budget is still around 200 for the sub, and the amp budget is also around 200.
Thanks

chu

PerfectCreature wrote: »

You are right. I have been looking around and you can get some really nice subs that can do fairly well with what I have.
As for ported or closed? I guess it would depend on the sub. I want loud and tight bass. I listen to lots of bassy music.
I will be picking up a new amp as well. 400 watts is the new Max, I sold my kenwood amp for $100 yesterday. Made about $120 off the subs so....
I am set with getting one really nice subwoofer and adding another one later.

So with that said, budget is still around 200 for the sub, and the amp budget is also around 200.
Thanks

Is space an issue? And what amp did you end up picking up?

I'm assuming the $200 amp budget you were looking is for the sub:
I would look at some of the jbl amps since amazon is offering 45% discount code on almost all jbl car audio products including amps; however, jbl amps s/n is quite low but you never know if you will experience any noise floor issues like with the first gen pdx amps.

If space isn't an issue and you can build and tune your own box I would go ported.

Here is a list for something for you to nibble on if you were to buy it bnib:

Polk mm12
Sundown audio sa-12
Re srx12
Arc 12
Jbl GTO
Diamond D612

If you want to go with a used sub, there are much more better options available.

PerfectCreature

I actually picked up the JBL GTO 3501 (360 RMS ...2 ohms)....it does not have a terrible s/n ration just not that good. It has 85...
As for the subwoofer I prefer new just because I don't know how the other person may have treated that subwoofer you know?
And these would be my best option for a hand build ported box is that correct?
Thanks for the suggestions, although some of these subwoofers will be underpowered with my amp...would be alright?

mole'

are you planning on adding a Cap at all to your system?

chu

PerfectCreature wrote: »

I actually picked up the JBL GTO 3501 (360 RMS ...2 ohms)....it does not have a terrible s/n ration just not that good. It has 85...
As for the subwoofer I prefer new just because I don't know how the other person may have treated that subwoofer you know?
And these would be my best option for a hand build ported box is that correct?
Thanks for the suggestions, although some of these subwoofers will be underpowered with my amp...would be alright?

yeah, 350 watt is fine.

And a ported box is great since you want it to slam with decent power.

These subs are some options out there, but those are the one that comes to mind that slams hard and sound good while doing so.

PerfectCreature

mole' wrote: »

are you planning on adding a Cap at all to your system?

I have a cap already. 1 farad, it doesn't do much to help in my opinion... but it is being used as my distribution power block since I do not have one at the moment so it is essential to me.
Why do you ask, I thought they are considered...a snake oil kind of effect.

I was also told that ported makes them less than accurate. Is that true?
I mean, I can stand them to be a little off beat but not terribly so.
Thanks.

mole'

PerfectCreature wrote: »

I have a cap already. 1 farad, it doesn't do much to help in my opinion... but it is being used as my distribution power block since I do not have one at the moment so it is essential to me.
Why do you ask, I thought they are considered...a snake oil kind of effect.

I was also told that ported makes them less than accurate. Is that true?
I mean, I can stand them to be a little off beat but not terribly so.
Thanks.

i remember when i had a system in my truck. had no CAP and the lights would DIM bigtime. added a 3 fard cap (i think on the size) and it helped out sooo much. no more dimming lights. also added a stinger Batt too. so they both helped

i had 2 JL 1000db watt amps

ported BOX IMO is best for that DEEEEP BASS!!!

chu

PerfectCreature wrote: »

I was also told that ported makes them less than accurate. Is that true?
I mean, I can stand them to be a little off beat but not terribly so.
Thanks.

Ported box has nothing to do with accuracy, I won't get into details but I'll explain what you need to know.

Ported subs let certain frequency ranges play louder than they normally would in a sealed box. Your frequency response wouldn't be flat (flat response - all sub ranges will sound just as loud as any other frequency ranges your sub plays).

Certain ranges, especially if you don't tune your box, the upper sub bass (40-55hz )will be louder than the lower frequency (40 and lower). But if you tune a ported box, you can achieve a flatter response while make your subs much louder. I hope this helps, if not ask away.

PerfectCreature

Well, first off...am I to build a ported box, if I am...I would like to know how to tune this box and such..and the only store I have is lowes and I have asked them about MDF board and they all look at me like I am an idiot.

As long as it does not make my sub any less accurate I do really mind having a ported box.

That said, given the watts....which sub would sound the best in a ported box...I like to have my head feel imploded by bass much like my PSW 505 does when I turn it up quite a bit.
Thanks. Plus, it would be great if you happened to have blueprints and such for building a ported box....

decal

I like to have my head feel imploded

Sorry my friend but that is not music,it's pressure.Big difference.Any POS sub and amp can produce this effect.Just my opinion and nothing else,feel free to disagree.

PerfectCreature

I was simply making a general statement on how I like my bass. I like it so that I can feel it as much as I can hear it. Much like "kicked" by your subs...
You know?
Um....better said this way I suppose.
I like to sit in the seat and feel the bass...much like a transducer/radiator would give me. I like that effect, along with hearing it....
I am sorry I worded it wrong...did not quite mean it that way.

chu

PerfectCreature wrote: »

Well, first off...am I to build a ported box, if I am...I would like to know how to tune this box and such..and the only store I have is lowes and I have asked them about MDF board and they all look at me like I am an idiot.

As long as it does not make my sub any less accurate I do really mind having a ported box.

That said, given the watts....which sub would sound the best in a ported box...I like to have my head feel imploded by bass much like my PSW 505 does when I turn it up quite a bit.
Thanks. Plus, it would be great if you happened to have blueprints and such for building a ported box....

Ask the people at lowes where are the boards that are made out of saw dust, they should know what it is. If not, ask for a manager and ask him where the mdf boards are and they will find it for you. Mdf is there, the employees are a ditz or just lazy. If not, go to a lumber yard.

I really like the sundowns for ported, and they are built for ported enclosure. But you can't really go wrong with any of the other subs I suggested. I would also like to add dd subs to that list.

As for tuning, you need to figure out what sub you're getting first. Then you will figure out what box size you will need for that sub with WinISD (Free program for windows building box enclosures). Then its a matter of volume space in the box. I'm just generalizing it for now, no need to go into details.

PerfectCreature

Yep, I have heard of the program....I have been reading articles on 12volt.
Anyway. So, all in all which subwoofer would be best for the effect I am looking for. I mean I kind of want this sub to be crazy loud....you know? As loud as I can get with 350 watts anyway.
Made out of sawdust? Yeah that should not be to hard to fine.

chu

Yea, I think mdf is made out of sawdust iirc. But once you see it, you know exactly what you're looking for next time.

I would go with sa-12 imo.

PerfectCreature

I don't have enough power to really make that one shine you know?
360 to a 600 watt sub...kind of like running with half your energy right?
What is your best pic in the 400 watt range?
Thanks. Sorry to so picky...

chu

its fine, its the max rms @ 600 I think. I'm certain that for the sa-8, the rms listed on the specs were 400 rms which is actually max rms. So I know you can go with lower voltage if you wanted, but the SA subs love power and can take whatever you give them.

PerfectCreature

What about the RE Audio SRX 12D4
How would that rate compared to the rest....I can get one for 109 at Sonix.
I could attempt to build a custom enclosure ported and tuned....
It does not seems to have many reviews but the XMAX is 18mm...that is pretty far....(It doubles what my old subs did)

As for the SA subs, the only dealer I see is EBAY,.

chu

PerfectCreature wrote: »

What about the RE Audio SRX 12D4
How would that rate compared to the rest....I can get one for 109 at Sonix.
I could attempt to build a custom enclosure ported and tuned....
It does not seems to have many reviews but the XMAX is 18mm...that is pretty far....(It doubles what my old subs did)

As for the SA subs, the only dealer I see is EBAY,.

I believe you have to pre-order the sa-12 atm as its currently in mass production. Or you can go through the ebay route and grab one of the first batches that were release for testing. Or better yet, contact a local sundown rep and ask them what they can do for you. I've tested out the sa-8 and they sound good and very loud, I imagine the 12 would be even better.

But as I've said you can't go wrong with any of the subs I suggested on the list, and its including re srx series. I looked at the sonix site, and you can snag a se-X series for 160.

PerfectCreature

So the SEX series would be the better option (I would rather not wait on a pre-order the suspense would eat me alive)
So the SEX would be the better option of the two even though I would not be giving it the full 600RMS?
Just curious. Also, 160 is not that bad at all. I was debating that as well.
I just want it to function well is all and be able to hit hard.

chu

technically the srx and sex are the same subs, but the sex has an upgraded motor and improved spider. Also the se-x are built in the US if that matters to you.

chu

and don't worry about the power handling, its fine

PerfectCreature

Actually I am not sure how I feel on made in the USA products much anymore. None the less, it is better than China made crap.
Ah well. I will scout around and see if I can pull up some reviews on that sub.
It probably would be a better to get that one, just because it has room for upgrades...I will give it some thought.
Thanks.

PerfectCreature

Okay. So I have made up my mind on the subwoofer.
I am going to go with the JBL GTO1214D it has an Xmax of 14.5 and a sensitivity of 93 @2.83 volts... I have that covered.
The RE Audio subwoofer looked great but the box said one thing and the website said another so...that kind of made me skeptical.
I will be keeping RE Audio and Sundown Audio in mind when I do my next subwoofer install.

So, I would like to build a ported box for the JBL subwoofer....any article on how to tune a box and all of that?
Thanks so much.