Is it dead?
Comments
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rf type 7?
im thinking about it....
-Cody -
how much is hifonics underrated?
cuz at sounddomain they have it listed at 900 x1 @ 2
and i want preferrably about 600 going to each sub
people are going to think im wierd for having a hifonics amp running my subs and rf running my components...
-Cody -
sounddomain's listing is incorrect.
if you go to hifonic's website they've got it listed as
" 500 x 1 at 4 ohms
1000 x 1 at 2 ohms
1500 x 1 at 1 ohm
with 0.08% thd "
I'd say it'll probably do right at its 1000w rating. but u can drive that into a bit of a clip --- if its 1000 @ 0.08@ thd ... it'll probably be like 1150 or so at 1% thd
in short it'll probably be very close or just a tad below the RF.
You can do that refurb for 350 of the bd1000.1, but I dunno how RF works their refurb policy --- some companies do new boards... others actually repair the bad ones... if its a repaired board i wouldn't pay 350 for it.
Personally, if I wanted to match amps, considering price and warranty, I'd be leaning toward the two Punch 500S @ 200 ea. Long as u got the room to bolt them up to the back wall with the other one (whatta u got for highs like a 551S ?).
That Xtant is killer too --- but again, its a refurb and u could be buyin somebody else's problems.
I'm voting two 500S's unless somethin else RF with sweet power pops up for low dough. They should do spec or a hair above... that's plenty for 10's dude... 600 is what u'd throw on the 12... 500 and change is plenty for the 10. and at 400 w/ 2 yr warr u cant really go wrong.. besides... then if ONE amp dies... you're not out 400, u're out 200 and you're not without bass for 2 or 3 weeks.
my buddy john has two momo 10's (old style) off two blue thunder 150.2's -- amps are close to 302's... only they did closer to 500 than 450 -- anyway - his slam like mother f****** and he's got the gains virtually at nothing. me thinx punch 500S's wud be pimpin.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
my momos are 12s
thats true about the id only be out 200 instead of 400 part...good point
i have time today and im going to be doing a lot of research for an amp
latest ill have made a decision on monday...monday im off i think..
if i did do those 2 rf, what size fuse would i use...still an 80? it wouldnt be possible for more power go through one power cable to the amp than the other?
ex...amp hits max at 1000watts...pulls out 2000 watts total(for both amps)...one amp get 500 watts...the other gets 1500
anyways thanks for the input
have you sent the bd back yet?
and i have ruled out the "refurbished" amps...rather have new
-Cody -
and the rf's are class ab right?
what would that do to my electrical system?
-Cody -
watching a new in box bd1000 on ebay
its at $150 with 4 days left....if it doesnt get too high im going to bid on it
im not going to bid on it now b/c someone else will just beat it making it higher in the end
if it gets high i think ill go with the 2 rf's for cosmetic purposes
im going to have 4 amps...thats crazy...1 for the 4x6s, one for the components, and one for each of my mm12s
i need to go see if theyll all fit...
im going to have to take the one i have now off and screw it closer to the side to fit them all in...ugh
and ill need more patch cables
-Cody -
Here's what you do... Measure the freespace in your car... buy some plywood... measure your amps... buy some carpet (the kind they use in sub boxes).... find a saw... make an amprack... Doesn't need to be pretty or perfectly dimensioned just a place to put your amps ;D it's what i was going to do till i completely chanced the route i want to take on gear... bty anybody know anything about Eclipse's 2 channel D class amp (all they say about power is 2000x2 peak @2ohm...)Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
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an amp rack wouldnt do me any good
its either going to fit...or its not
but im sure it will
its all going to be screwed to the back wall behind the seat
as soon as i get another capacitor and amp for the 4x6s its going to have an amp...capacitor...2 more amps...capacitor...and another amp
the 2 subs amps being on the outside that way they wont have to share a capacitor with each other since theyll be the ones taking out the most power
and ive decided im going with the 2 rf 500s...the 2 year warranty was the winning factor over the ebay bd1000
how much do you think i can get for the old bd on ebay?
and anyone want to buy some kenwood exceleron 4x6s in about 3 weeks?
lol
i think by next week ill have enough money to get xm radio and 2 weeks after ill have enough for the new momo 4x6s
heres hoping i dont have any more unexpected expenses
-Cody -
SOMEBODY's LONGWINDED TODAY!!!!
heh heh heh....
**** i miss checkin teh forums for 1 day and you're burnin my ear off...
your bd was in the mail yesterday afternoon -- where i put the tracking number i do not know -- my mom dropped it at ups insured for $400 (hey maybe u'll get lucky, they'll smash it to bits and you'll get 400 bucks.... LMFAO).
rough guess -- if u dont go into a lot of detail and just say "RF BD1000.1 for sale -- item powers up but its not working normally, for repair or parts, as/is" - you'll probably get 150-ish for it... if you are a sheister and say "RF amp, untested, as / is, i dont kow if it works, just got it in with a lot of customer returns..." -- probably get 200... but then there's the honesty factor... i'd rather live with teh 150 and sleep at night.
put it on ebay with a start price of 100 bucks... 10 day auction ... "buy it now" for 150... and if it doesn't sell you're out like 3 bucks -- then they let u relist it for free... and then u can drop that to like starting bid of 75, buy it now 125 -- and i'm almost positive it would go for that.
SOMEBODY out there needs parts for a BD1000.1, and after the *pardon my french* **** assload of work I did on that, damn near all of those parts are gonna be functional ... i just wish i had a magic genie who could find out what the hell's wrong in processing.
re: power lines and two 500S's --- if you have two amps on one power line, or 4, or 10 amps on one power line... the power is not "pushed" through the line and into teh amps... as you said if there are two amps that 'have' 50 amps of current each... one will not get 75 and the other 25... current is DRAWN by the amp -- its like the wire is a straw and the amps are people suckin on the straw -- if the fat guy sucks twice as much as the skinny guy, then the fat guy will get 2 units of pwoer, the skinny guy one -- the same amoutn they'd get if they were the ONLY amp on teh line... each amp PULLS what it needs, nothing more or less (unless you have a bunch of bd1000.1's running off a 50 amp alternator and a 200 cca motorcycle battery -- then you'd have insufficient power and **** would go wrong).
re: fuses on two 500S's --- i didn't look up spec on their fuse requirement but this is a better way .... take the fuse rating of the amp for your fronts... add that to the fuse rating of the amp for the 4x6 rears.... then add the fuse ratings for the two 500S's -- then take that big number and multiply it by 70 or 75% -- put a fuse THAT big on your power line ( I suggest at least a 2 gauge line, preferably a 0 gauge line -- 500S is gonna draw about 35 amps... thats 70 for two... i dont know what you're runnin front and rear but lets say another 25 or 30 amps total draw for fronts and rear amps (note this is not the rating of the fuses on the amps.. i'm just talkin normal draw -- example.. 500S prolly has two 25A fuses = 50A, yet it will only draw about 35 normally me thinx) ... anyway - say about 100A total nominal draw --- your fuses will probably add up to like 150 or 175... I'd do a 2 gauge line with a 120A fuse on it. maybe 100A fuse... u gotta do the math like i stated above to determine that -- but def 2 gauge line. 4 awg is good up to about 75A for a 15 foot run.... (it'll do 150A for a 2 foot run, but you're truck's a lot longer than 2 feet) -- 2 gauge will handle 150 over a 15 ft run. 0 = 300 but i dont think u need to go that heavy unless u plan on adding a busload more amplifiers in the future.
run that line to your "bank" of capacitors (jump all yoru caps together with 2 gauge) -- and then split off with 4 or 8 gauge from there-- if you keep the runs from the cap bank to the amps to less than 1.5 feet, you can get away with 8 gauge for the 500S's... if u do over that, then i'd do 4 gauge for teh 500s's and 8 for the other two amps (note -- 4 gauge PER amp... 8 gauge PER amp).
i know what you're sayin with arranging " amp / cap / amp / cap" yada yada... but i really would jump all your caps together and then run as short as humanly possible leads from the caps to the amplifiers -- the less **** u can have "in the way" of power flow the better... when u go "power line / cap / amps" it is a little more continuous...
"they're 12's not 10's" -- oh -- i cudda sworn u had 10's ? oh well... in that case these amps are about right, but i understand and agree when u say 600 would be nicer... u are gonna have about a 10 - 12% drop in power (assuming 550 out of the 550S and 1250 out of the bd1000.1) with these two versus the bd1000.1, but it'll be cleaner power... they are in fact class AB bridgeable -- so less THD, higher damping factor, all in all i'd say the small drop in power will probably be made up for 10 fold by the increased "punchy-ness" of the subs.
regarding amp rack --- u know he may have a point -- just for easyness of install... you could cut a 1/2 inch piece of plywood or mdf to the dimensions of you rback wall -- then bolt everything to that while its sittin on your picnic table or something -- so its easier to work with -- jump all teh wiring while its outa the car -- then.. just use 4 bolts to bolt that big plank to you rback wall, and then just wire up your power line. if u do that -- carpet it... or paint it... dont leave it bare -- that'd be ****.
4 amps = crazy ..... no way.... i have 4 amps... i'm only midly off mental balance. besides -- i have this feeling that its going to look really good when you're done with it, and the 4 amps across the back wall will be nothing short of awestriking when u flip down the seat to people who look at your truck.
all in all, i'm glad u picked the 500S's -- were i put in teh same situation, given the price tag and warranty info ---i'd prolly be pickin up 8302's... you say toe-may-toe, i say toe-ma-toe, i think they'll perform well. they're punch amps, but that's not really as bad as some people think it is -- punch amps do their rating... there's no sin in that -- the power series usually do 15 - 20% more -- worst thing u can say about punch is "500 w is 525 w, instead of 600w"
keep me posted on how this goes -- and i wanna see a pic of this 4 amp wall when you're done
) The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
after looking up more on the internet...im not sure about the punch anymore...
looking at the power 550s or the power 450s
and why cant they make one that does 500 watts
the 450s is like 189 while the 550 is like 270
a 500 would be like 220 and i could do that
lol
but im wondering if i get the power 450s and counting on it being underrated and getting about 550 out of it
thinking technically: the bd was rated at 1000 did 1236
so take 1.236(that its underrated by) multiplying that by 450(what the 450s is rated at)
1.236x450=556
ex. 2
my power 500.2 was rated at 500x1 @ 2
did 827
divide those numbers...comes out to 1.654
multiply 450x1.654=744 watts
so if i went with the power itd probably do somewhere b/t 556 and 744
it would save me $20 and the power series are better amps
thanks to my ti-89 or i wouldnt be contemplating this cuz i would be too lazy to do the math by hand
calling rf today if theyre open on weekends(doubtful)or monday cuz im off
the reason i was doing it amp/capacitor/amp/amp/capacitor/amp was so the power line would be shorter...the capacitor would be hooked up to the 2 amps surrounding it, the reason i didnt put them in the middle was partly b/c the wiring would have to be longer and there would be more wiring and make things look messier, if thats a word...
i currently have a 4awg wiring kit, and a 8 awg wiring kit, 4 went to the bd, 8 went to the 500.2 for the momo 6.5s up front
so i need to be thinking about how to wire everything up
originally i was going to buy 2 awg for the bd...move the 4 awg to the 500.2 and 8awg to the amp for the 4x6's when i get it
but then do like you said and run 2 awg to the caps...split off from there would be less wiring to deal with....and i have enough 4awg wire to run 4awg to everything....running 4awg to an amp that only does 50x2 for the 4x6s might be kind of wierd....in which case i can use the 8awg wire for that
im going to go that website...forgot how to spell it...the one with a k...lol..for power wiring and everything else but the patch cables...in which case im making a trip to ebay for some street wires 5.0
this is going to be an all out rewiring job...
last time i took out the seats and wired it...really dont want to do that again...but its not that hard
the back seat has never been bolted in...i have the bolts...lol...but it doesnt move/shift anything like that...the front seats have 4 bolts each with no nuts or anything to deal with
*thinking about all the work for a second*
ahhh....the possibilities
-Cody -
crutchfield customer service is great for a question like what amp should i use for this speaker
but useless for anything else
just thought you might want to know
and rf is closed on weekends
now its time to find dimensions on the power 450 and 550s, and punch 500s
those are the amps its come down too...leaning towards the 450s
measure my 500.2
find the rms of the polk momo 4x6s, find an amp and its dimensions for that...measure the back wall...add in the capacitors and see if i have enough room
then get some graph paper and figure out the wiring
-Cody -
ok...after more research this is what i have
saying that i go with the 450s
the 450s, 500s, and 550s are all approximately 12 3/8" wide
i have 62" on my back wall
13x3 (2 450s and 500.2 for highs) is 39"
plus 12" for a 201s for the 4x6s in the future brings it out to be 51"
plus 8 inches for 2 caps comes out to be a grand total of 59"
would 1 5/8" be enough room b/t each amp...as in for adequate cooling behind a back seat?
i also found a 2 capacitor buss on sounddomain to connect 2 caps
one is gold plated the other is platinum plated...both for the same price...which one is better?
$12.95 @ sounddomain
heres the link:
http://www.sounddomain.com/shoplist~b~Rockford+Fosgate~t~Stiffening+Capacitor+Accessories
called crutchfield again...even though i was kind of mad cuz i called them earlier today....i guess i just got a dumb **** that time...but the guy told me to find out the fuse rating...add total rms, multiply by 2, divide by 12.8
550+550(for 450s's)+400(500.2)+150(201s)=1650x2=3300/12.8=257.8125
going to run probably 1/0(is that good...a lot of power is going through this one wire) from battery to cap...get the cap buss...run 4awg to the 450s's which will be next to the caps...and 8awg to the 500.2 and the 201s which will be the amps on the outside
going to best buy/circuit city...buying the cheapest pair of patch cables i can find...i only need patch cables for 1 amp
i have patch cables for 2 amps, and im not getting the 201s right now
running that till i get my next paycheck...buying 4 new pairs of patch cables...street wires 5.0/6.0/or 3.5...dont know which ones yet
i only have 1 sub preout...what do i need to do there?
i think its a front/rear/sub at 6.5 volts maximum output level
does everything sound good so far?...or is there something i need to change?
thans
-Cody -
im calling rockford tomorrow to ask a couple of questions...im pretty sure im going to get the 450s...im going to look up prices on the internet tomorrow since im off and get my order in
does my setup sound ok though?
cuz i dont want to order and find out i overlooked something
-Cody -
ok -- well, the 450S is fine -- you'll at least get 500 out of it... which would be "the same" as the punch 500S ... so if its cheaper, power wise u can look at the Power series as "at least" the same, probably better... so 450S = good choice me thinx. JUST MAKE SURE ITS NOT A REFURB (refurb = 90 day warr).
1.5" is adequate spacing between amps ... the primary cooling area on the amp is the two side rails (like if the amp is in front of you on a table and there is an end cap at you rleft hand, and an end cap at your right hand... so its like 13" left to right and then 9" top to bottom.. those 13" along each side are were all the heavy duty **** is -- and you can actually feel an amp when its jus starting to get warm -- those two rail sides get warmner before the top of the case does --- its all one hunk of metal so eventually its all the same temerature... but as long as u dont cover the top of the case or the side rails you're fine -- the end caps aren't meant to keep anything cool so 1.5" is fine between them.
you know, u can always moutn them "up and down" instead of "left and right"... like rotate them 90 degrees.... not as asthetically pleasing but if u start having heat problems it might help.
that equation for figuring out fuse size is about as bogus as a 7 dollar bill.
... if you were burping your amps, for an SPL comp, i would agree with that guy. he's not totally out to lunch, but for daily driving that's not what you should do.
you cant look at it as "what is the amp's most possible draw" -- look at it this way.
you will desire to get XYZ wattage out of your amp ... nominally that's what you want, expect, and will get. if you're not burping it, then you will never need to draw in excess of that amount, so putting a fuse that's like 10% bigger than the nominal current draw necessary to put out the wattage you want will give you the best protection against having a lotta damage if/when something goes bad. if u tried to burp it - u'd blow that fuse most likely... probably blow the subs too.
450S calls for what a 50A fuse? where the hell's my crack-field book... blah -- lookin up the RF website....
*downloading 450S 2002 model manual... clock goes "tick tick tick tick"*
ok its loaded -- it says a 40A fuse.
40 x 13.8 = 552 .... 40 x 14.4 = 576
That is probably the power you're gonna see.... 550 ... while the amp may be capable of putting out more power, it may do so only with a larger fuse in place.. like if it can do 700w rms, maybe it can do that safely, but with about 50A of draw.
anywho -- i'm thinking u're gonna do about 550 a sub as u had said yourself... least teh numbers add up now.
at most you're throwing 200 x 2 at those momo comps -- prolly more like 150, but call it 200x2 for sake of overestimating a hair.
punch 201S is gonna give u a decent amount of power but you're not gonna put more than 30 - 40 on those rears, you'll blow a 4x6 plate with more than that -- so call that 40
550 + 550 + (200x2) + (40x2) = 1580 ...
most bridgeable AB 1500 watt rms amplifiers wil have a 120 to 150A fuse ... that's for normal use -- for burping -- 175 - 200A
mtx 81000d does 1500 x 1 rms, has a call for a 150A fuse - but that is for MAX power useage -- normal useage they'll tell u to go with a 120A fuse.
my point is -- 150A fuse would be PLENTY.
1580 / 13.8 = 114.5 .... i'd be putting a 130A fuse on that. but 150A would be fine too -- i would NOT go over 150 unless you're blowing fuses.
you put a 225 or 250A fuse on there and something goes wrong and you're gonna allow nearly double that 115 A nominal draw... so if u got one bad amp -- and its onboard fuse shorts instead of blowing, or it doesnt' have an onboard fuse, then you can theoretically dump 100 amps plus its normal 40A draw right down its throat.
get a 150 -- if you blow it, i'll have sounddomain ship you whatever ANL or AGU fuse you want.
i mean dude -- here's another thing that makes the point... add up the fuses ...
40 + 40 + 40 + 20 = 140
if you have 140A worth of fuses on board the amplifiers, how the hell are you gonna draw 225 amps of current??????
you can't push an elephant through a straw.
far as what wire gauge -- if you're using knuconceptz, u might as well get 0 gauge. you dont actually need it right now, 2 gauge would be PERFECT, but for the price they charge at knukonceptz, you might as well get the 0, if you ever add anything to the car u can just tap in and run it off that line without having to add extra power lines. bigger wire never hurt anyone -- bigger fuses will though.
As far as patch cables -- i just got some ZN 3.5's for the cadillac and i actually am not displeased. since you're not buying right now, I'll let u know how the sound... I'm torture testing them... I ran the patch cables right on top of the power wire -- they patch / power / speakers / remmy turn on line are all running twined together along the driver side under the carpet... so if they dont make noise under that -- then i think they're worth lending my confidence to.
and they're cheap too... well cheaper than 6.0's
you can prolly run the front out to the 500.2 --- run the rear out to the 201 and run the sub out to the rear portion then split it -- -have the line end like under the back seat area and then get like a piece of 5.0 or some other good patch cable that you can tear in half down the middle so instead of one cable with Right and LEFT you just have two cables, one right, one left... and run one of those to one 450S, the other to the other 450S and use a double male / single female Y splitter to give each amp a TRUE MONO input -- this will improve bridged performance, that way instead of having a R and L signal that is "close" to each other.. it'll have absolutely identical signals and will add to teh clarity of the output.
in addition, it'll be "true" stereo -- while i realize localized bass isn't a great thing, every once in a while i get a song where the entire music trac (Trebble, mid, bass) will start out the right side, go to the left, and hten back again (like techno stuff) -- and if i had just normally split my RCA line i'd never notice that.
just steal some radio shack 1 dollar rca's until u decide to rewire -- wont hurt nothin.
straight pimpin with the phat beats -- keep me posted
The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
ok ill get the 150a fuse
and thanks for the info about splitting the patch cables
is monster cable or street wires better?
i was looking at monster cable at best buy...patch cables...$90...and on the package it sounded really good
so i wanted your opinion about it
i went by bb today and picked up a 17' patch cable for $10...install edge....heard of it?...lol
me neither
thanks...im going to order the amps tomorrow
what ill probably end up doing since im short a capacitor and an amp thats in the "great plan," and until i get the wiring, im just going to run the old 4awg i had to the cap...split off from the cap to the 2 450s's, and the 500.2 has its own 8awg wiring to itself...and when i get the wiring...tie everything together
thanks
-Cody -
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Kompressed 0 Gauge Silver
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size isnt really a problem...so which when would i go with?
the first one has more strands and its cheaper...so im thinking the first one
your opinion por favor?
-Cody -
well... the gauge is the same... so judge by strands, as u said... the more strands, the better and greater current handling capabilities.
and to boot, like you said, its cheaper -- go w/ the first (round) cable.
far as the patch cables --- i bought 140 dollars worth of monster cable from circuit city about 2 yrs ago --- i was utterly disgusted with it -- noisy, and crappy build quality to boot -- those lasted maybe 3 weeks before ic ouldn't take it anymroe and ripped em out.
i'm sure lots of people have used MC with success - but my personal experience has been that they make fantastic speaker wire and power wire - as good or better than anyone else (better speaker wire than streetwires), but SW has the market cornered on patch cables.
only thing that bugs me is nobody makes a "dual piece" patch cable anymore that's of high quality... likeu know how speaker wire is two rubber wires that you can pull apart? well older patch cables were like that, newer ones from both MC and SW aren't, its all one jacket... you'd have to go all the way down to the ZN 2.0 to get a dual jacket.... which makes splitting hard -- but i think Stinger has dual jacket lines still and they make a very good cable too. Actually, stinger's cheaper than either MC or SW, and its pretty good stuff too. might wanna look @ that ... sounddomain has the whole line up.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
so i wouldnt be able to use the 5.0s to split that one patch cable to my amps? id have to go with stinger?
-CodyTesting
Testing
Testing -
5.0's haven't been made in 3 years... if u can find 5.0's then great! --- they are dual jacket.
6.0's and 3.5's are not -- they're the "new" stuff.
the "old" stuff was Musica / 3.0 / 5.0 all dual jacket
Now its....
LN 2.0 dual jakcet
ZN 2.0(or2.5 i dunno) / 3.5 / 6.0 all single jacket
for only like 2 feet or whatever it is u can use a lower grade 2.0's .. it wont hurt anything ... i think the ZN 2.0's may be dual jacket too -- i'll look it up and let u know... cuz i bought some 2.0 something hta twas dual jacket purposely for the caddy sub amps... i'll see what series they are.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
im sure i can find the 5.0s somewhere
thanks
-Cody -
i have to buy new brake pads as well...$50...add that to the reasons why someone up there ^ doesnt want me to have any more audio equipment...my oil is still sitting in my room and i still haevnt bought brake shoes...but the ones i have will last at least a couple of more months
i got away with 2 RF 450S's last night for just under $380 on thezeb.com last night....takes about 2-3 days to ship...i cant wait...ive been with out bass for almost 5 weeks now
*sings* "you dont know what you got, til its gone..."
-Cody -
uh oh -- he's singing -- run.... very.... very.... fast.
380 for 1000+ watts retail is dirt **** cheap, ya made out good there @ least.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
i heard that...lolOriginally posted by PoweredByDodge
uh oh -- he's singing -- run.... very.... very.... fast.
and now its raining very hard...brakes will have to wait til tomorrow night
i love wagner brake pads...wagner is the way to go if you need brake pads...they last 2-3times long that your standard brake pads...stop faster...and leave no brake dust...the only brake pads i think ill ever buy...unless im dirt **** broke...the 16.99 ones will do...lol
-Cody -
they dont leave brake dust?
are u sure?
i mean i'm nto doubting you, but define "no dust"
cuz i've tried Bendex (Bendix? spelling), and three kinds of Raysbestos, and finally i've been using the Raysbestos Quiet Stop ceramic pads -- they give off less dust than any of the previously used ones, but even still my front wheel rims always look a few shades darker than the rears, and on a bad day i've got black dusty runny **** all over them.
I'm payin about 50 bucks or 60 bucks for these pads ...
do the wagner really not leave any dust? and if so - whatta they run ballpark for a set of front pads?
lifespan isn't really a question -- my truck eats brakes for breakfast lunch and dinner... assuming stopping ability is the same, i'd just like to get rid of the dust, it gives a **** look to the truck.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
well, ive always used wagner, but these are the first ones that are supposed to leave no brake dust that ive had, the manager at O'Reilley's said they would leave no dust, but I'll test them out
they were 51.95 for my truck...and its the same body type as yours i believe...full size 2wd...only difference is mine is a gmc and its a 3/4ton and yours is a 1/2 ton(i think)dodge and yours is 3 years newer
but i do a lot of pulling in my truck...huge trailers...and those brakes will kick that trailer's ****...they still stop like there was almost nothing back there
i have drums in the back which sucks...or else my truck would have some serious stopping power
but the pads i have now are almost wore down to nothing...and i had to slam on the brakes coming home for a couple of dogs and they still work great
but im going to change them out this afternoon and ill give you a verdict in a few days if they leave dust
if i had money id rotate my rotors...too bad i dont...just spent almost $500 yesterday alone on amps, gas, and brakes...
-Cody -
ya i've got drums in back too -- they wanted 750 for a kit from this place called "Stainless Steel Brake" up in Lockport (about 30 minutes north of me) to do disc in back ... they make a good product and its warrantied for life, but there's no way in hell i can see a reason to dump 750 into rear brakes when the fact is the only reason id be getting them is to 1) say i had 4 wheel disc and 2) be able to drive even faster cuz i could stop even faster.
i shud just slow down.... cheaper, safer.
at this point in my life i wudn't own a 3/4 ton -- i'd be wasting a powerful truck on daily driving... i dont use it enough for that kind of stuff... towing, hauling, etc... my girlfriend wants to move down south and have a couple of horses in the yard, at which time i made it very clear to her if she gets to buy 2 or 3 , then i get to buy 400... under the hood of a 3/4 ton to better haul em around with.
although i do so wish i had a ballsier ride... its hard to pull up beside a 250(0) / 350(0) and feel like i'm "mini-me".The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
i wouldnt recommend it for daily driving either...the suspension is too stiff
i hate it
lol
and the mileage at 10-11miles a gallon driving in both the city and highway is really **** too
its been raining out here lately and i wish my truck was 4wd...
i had to go pick up a trailer at a guys house and the road by his house is dirt until you get up to it then in turns to gravel...and i was in a hurry and it wouldve taken me an extra 15 minutes to go on the backside of his house to get to the gravel road so i went through the dirt road while it was raining/lightning/thundering and there was water all over the road...i didnt get stuck...but at one time my truck was perpendicular to the road with the wheels turned all the way one way and i looked at the speedometer and it said i was going 80....i was going sideways about 5 mph...i thought i was going to hit the fence on the other side of the ditch...and there were 2 other times when i thought i was going to get stuck...but me and my truck made it out alive and kicking...but it cost me about an 8th of a tank of gas...looking back...i wouldve taken the long way...
but it was fun...
and ive seen conversion kits for my truck that were also $750...and unless youre going mudding when drum brakes suck...or you live in a neighbor hood where dogs/cats/large birds/and children live on the street...i wouldnt pay 750
-Cody -
change the brakes out...now last week alone i had to replace 2 valve stems on the back tires...see my front tire is kind of low...go get air...my tire was wet b/c i had washed it to see if the new pads would leave any dust...anyways...i was putting air in the tire and around the base of the valve stem i could see bubbles
i cant believe im going to end up replacing 3 valve stems in less than 2 weeks time....what the hell?
it couldntve waited till thursday when i get paid...
im going to get up tomorrow and my tire is probably going to be flat
there goes another $5 i dont have
so far...im in debt of about $65
i dont even have a buck 75 for breakfast tomorrow
woe is me
lol
-Cody -
if it makes u feel any better -- the numbers are pretty much in -- the old man's pension goes from ~30k down to ~10k due to the insurance company / federal govt taking over due to the steel plant's bankruptcy.
i think my money tree just got uprooted and sent into the chipper.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
ok...got the paycheck...only $100 to spend on audio...
thatll get me the 1/0awg, 4awg, 8awg, fuse and fuse holder, maybe even the street wire 5.0 patch cable for the subs...havent got the amps yet...expecting them any day now
i have one more question
i have a front, rear, and sub output
the front is in use, can i run one of the subs off the rear output...and just adjust the frequencies at the amp?
or should i just get a y-splitter and hook them both up to the sub output?
-Cody
