PSW10 circuit diagram needed!

gbmracing

Hello everyone,

I am hoping someone out there has a PSW10 that they wouldn't mind opening up for me. PLEASE?!?!

My PSW10 turns on, but only hums and pops. It has presumably took a power spike and (confirmed) popped a couple resistors. I'd like to replace the resistors, however the color coding has been charred and I can't differentiate the resistor type. The circuit number is R12 and R16. They are in the upper right hand corner next to the capacitors. The cabinet and sub are still in great condition. I wasn't planning on an upgrade right now because this one suits my needs just fine.

Unfortunately, the sub is not under warranty. Maybe it is - but it was given to me as a gift and I cannot find any information on the purchase date or receipts. So that is out of the question. I have called P.A. but the discounted circuit board is $96. The ENTIRE sub can be purchased new for $100...so I'm leaning away from sending it in. I'd like to just spend the $1-2 for the resistors and be on my way. Also, the sub is still in production, so P.A. will not release a circuit diagram.

Any help or information you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time and thoughts.

skrol

Post a picture. I may be able to get the values off of mine.

Another option is to pick up another plate amp from a place like Parts Express or perhaps Polk CS might be real nice and help you out.

Stan

gbmracing

gbmracing

I went ahead and tried to post the picture; not sure if it made it. http://yfrog.com/0jresistorsj I can email the picture if you'd like. Thanks for the help!

gbmracing

skrol

Wowzers! I hope that is all that's wrong with them. Resistors are cheap so might as well give it a try. I'll try to get the values for ya.
Stan

TECHNOKID

Check Q1 and Q3 also as you might have to replace them also. You might as well check the capacitors also. Any damages to the runs? Seems like there is damage just above the components you are pointing at, am I right?

Good luck!
TK

gbmracing

Thanks a bunch for the input - I'm looking forward to changing them out and giving it a shot. I've done a visual inspection on Q1 and Q3 and no issues - but I've been holding off on circuit trouble shooting until I find out the resistor values. If I can't get the resistors, then no use worrying about the rest of it. Some components also have internal failure modes, so it's not always obvious. All good things to check though - so again, great inputs. The runs all look good and the identified portions are the only visible damages to the board. The other black portions (or dark portions) in the photo are shadows or the sealant. They have a black sealant/adhesive and that is seen in numerous areas on the board. That adhesive (and 2 screws) also holds the aluminum plate (not shown) to the board - that is the area directly above the indicated areas on the picture. Thus far, I've had great luck repairing circuit boards and I hope I can add this one to the success list. I hate to just throw stuff away - especially when it's got so much life left in it. Anyway, enough about that - thanks again everyone. Have a great weekend!

gbmracing

Oh! If I get resistance values...that's GREAT! However,if someone just has a picture even....or can tell me the colors (in order) on the resistor...that helps a bunch too. I'd gladly decode the resistors...there's just nothing left of these to decode And no continuity to check with a meter.

skrol

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I was in China for 2.5 weeks to receive our adopted daughter. I did open up my sub and took some pics that I can post later.

Anyway, the resistors R12 and R16 look like Brown Black Brown Gold (100 ohms 5%).

The transistor markings are:
Q3:
647
6L 2
E C B (Emitter Collector Base)

Q1:
667
8L 2
E C B

Hope this helps
Stan

skrol

Here are the PICS.

Stan

gbmracing

Skrol is AWESOME! Thanks a million for your kindness - it means the world! I appreciate the help!

skrol

BTW I found out the hard way and perhaps you already know this. When you reinstall the heat sync make sure you install the insulator behind the IC. I didn't realize it was there as it was hidden in the thermal grease. If it is not in place properly, it will short and cause the fuse to blow.

Your amp board looks like it has several burned areas and there may be more extensive damage. If it is, you might consider a new plate amp. Parts Express seems to have a good selection.
Stan

yepimonfire

if i'm not mistaken aren't polks sub amps EQ'd or something like that to each driver? if so buying a new amp may or may not be a good idea, plus the amp may not fit, and it will cost like 70 bucks, if you cant fix the resistors etc i would just buy a new sub. good luck fixing it though.

skrol

Well the PSW10 can be had for about $100 used. It may not be worth sinking much money into. However, it may be fun to experiment with.

yepimonfire

actually you can get it for 100 new on newegg with free shipping.