Sealed cabinets?
Comments
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A shallow staple?
I don't have any staple-guns or staplers that can fit inside M5's. Well, I do, but I don't think a tiny paper stapler will have the strength to bury a staple even a millimeter into the cabinet.polkaudio Monitor 5 Series II
polkaudio SDA-1 (with the SL1000)
TEAC AG-H300 MK III stereo receiver
beyerdynamic DT-880 Premium (600 Ω) headphones
SENNHEISER HD-555 headphones
Little Dot MK IV tube headphone amp
Little Dot DAC_I balanced D/A converter -
suspend from small screweyes and string/fishing line for a true suspension loudspeaker !:D
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suspend from small screweyes and string/fishing line for a true suspension loudspeaker !:D
I might have cable management stuff from my computer, including stick-on mount points. I suppose I could run some string to create a basic net to keep the filling up? Otherwise, would double-sided tape or something like gorilla glue work?polkaudio Monitor 5 Series II
polkaudio SDA-1 (with the SL1000)
TEAC AG-H300 MK III stereo receiver
beyerdynamic DT-880 Premium (600 Ω) headphones
SENNHEISER HD-555 headphones
Little Dot MK IV tube headphone amp
Little Dot DAC_I balanced D/A converter -
Double-sided tape is ok, do NOT use Gorilla glue....for anything. In fact, if you have some around, throw it out.
I believe you're over thinking this. Simply fluff up the poly fill and shove it back up where it belongs.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Double-sided tape is ok, do NOT use Gorilla glue....for anything. In fact, if you have some around, throw it out.
I believe you're over thinking this. Simply fluff up the poly fill and shove it back up where it belongs.
+1
Don't worry about it. Put it back in place, and check it again in 5 years to make sure it hasn't fallen back down again.;)
+1 on the Gorilla Glue comments as well. I hate that stuff.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
Alright. I finished up. I did fluff it up a bit (refolded it) and shoved it back behind the tweeter. I ended up mortiting both pairs of tweeters, woofers, and radiators. I tried to mortite the crossover but that was a pretty bad idea; I cracked the plastic edges but it's still sealed. I should have left that bit alone--and I did on the second cabinet. I actually had to repack a choke and luckily caught one point where two board components were touching too closely. I'm a touch worried about those M5-II's as it looks like I have a bulging (around the waist) ?resistor?capacitor?. They sound alright, but actually pretty crappy besides my SDA-1's.
Does anyone have (a link to) the schematic for the original Monitor stands or other good variants?
I'll be building a wood stand to bring them up ~2' and keeping them flat. As they are now, they're flat on the ground. I found they sound fine at desk/cabinet height, but they sound like crap on the floor. I will probably go overboard and build two stands each; one floorstanding and one for use with a desk.
In other news, I heard about a pair of 10A's in my area for $50, but the seller hasn't gotten back to me after I inquired about some other parts.polkaudio Monitor 5 Series II
polkaudio SDA-1 (with the SL1000)
TEAC AG-H300 MK III stereo receiver
beyerdynamic DT-880 Premium (600 Ω) headphones
SENNHEISER HD-555 headphones
Little Dot MK IV tube headphone amp
Little Dot DAC_I balanced D/A converter -
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They probably don't/didn't know how to use it and got some on their fingers, a very lasting mistake.:)
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Right.
Anyways, does anyone have the Monitor 5 stand specs? The speakers sound really crappy sitting flat on the floor. I tried searching the forum but I couldn't find much (I didn't look past a page or two) quickly. I've got plenty of scrap wood etc. downstairs, so it'd be pretty easy to put together a stand.polkaudio Monitor 5 Series II
polkaudio SDA-1 (with the SL1000)
TEAC AG-H300 MK III stereo receiver
beyerdynamic DT-880 Premium (600 Ω) headphones
SENNHEISER HD-555 headphones
Little Dot MK IV tube headphone amp
Little Dot DAC_I balanced D/A converter -
A few of the reason I prefer yellow glue over Gorilla glue.
Yellow woodworker's glue (Polyvinyl Acetate) is an excellent choice for bonding wood as it penetrates well into the wood fibers to create a bond. Gorilla glue (Polyurethane) does not penetrate into the wood fibers.
Cured yellow glue works better with the natural expansion and contraction of wood. Cured Gorilla glue is rock hard, yet fairly brittle, so it doesn't do well with the natural expansion and contraction of wood.
Yellow glue cures by evaporation and any excess is easily wiped off before it cures. Gorilla glue cures by a chemical reaction with moisture and the foamy excess should be left to cure before chiseling, sanding or planing it off. Can you say PITA extra work!?! Since Gorilla glue needs moisture to cure, you have to wet at least one surface. The problem there is that wood lumber doesn't like water all that much.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
A few of the reason I prefer yellow glue over Gorilla glue.
Yellow woodworker's glue (Polyvinyl Acetate) is an excellent choice for bonding wood as it penetrates well into the wood fibers to create a bond. Gorilla glue (Polyurethane) does not penetrate into the wood fibers.
Cured yellow glue works better with the natural expansion and contraction of wood. Cured Gorilla glue is rock hard, yet fairly brittle, so it doesn't do well with the natural expansion and contraction of wood.
Yellow glue cures by evaporation and any excess is easily wiped off before it cures. Gorilla glue cures by a chemical reaction with moisture and the foamy excess should be left to cure before chiseling, sanding or planing it off. Can you say PITA extra work!?! Since Gorilla glue needs moisture to cure, you have to wet at least one surface. The problem there is that wood lumber doesn't like water all that much.
I agree, gorilla is better suited for plastics and hard non porous surfaces,.Receiver
Harman Kardon HK 3490
Speakers
Polk Audio Monitor 50s
Subwoofer
Klipsch KSW-100
Cables
AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft Interconnect
AudioQuest HDMI-1 2m
Alienware X51 R2
PS4
Samsung Smart TV 40" 1080p 3D -
A few of the reason I prefer yellow glue over Gorilla glue.
Yellow woodworker's glue (Polyvinyl Acetate) is an excellent choice for bonding wood as it penetrates well into the wood fibers to create a bond. Gorilla glue (Polyurethane) does not penetrate into the wood fibers.
Cured yellow glue works better with the natural expansion and contraction of wood. Cured Gorilla glue is rock hard, yet fairly brittle, so it doesn't do well with the natural expansion and contraction of wood.
Yellow glue cures by evaporation and any excess is easily wiped off before it cures. Gorilla glue cures by a chemical reaction with moisture and the foamy excess should be left to cure before chiseling, sanding or planing it off. Can you say PITA extra work!?! Since Gorilla glue needs moisture to cure, you have to wet at least one surface. The problem there is that wood lumber doesn't like water all that much.
So I wouldn't be taking a leap of faith in stating, "you do know how to use it!":D
