Change the jumper between the posts?

thajones · May 2003

A friend of mine who uses Kimber like I said he found an audible difference by removing the brass(?) jumper from the rear posts on his B&W 604 S3 and replacing it with a short 1 1/2 inch run of Kimber. Has anyone else tried it? I did the same, but couldn't really tell the difference, or is it due to my "mid-fi" speakers?

The Kimber is 4pr, by the way.

dcarlson · May 2003

I have Kimber 4vs and noticed a difference when I removed the jumpers with my RT1000i.

I haven't tried a short run to replace the jumper though.

Do you notice a difference without a jumper at all?

thajones · May 2003

You mean bi-wiring?

dcarlson · May 2003

Yup.

Did you notice a difference between jumper and no jumper?

danger boy · May 2003

if you bi wire your speakers.. you need to remove the jumper.. no jumper.

if you do not bi wire your speakers.. yes replacing the metal jumper and replacing it with 12 guage wire is what several people recommend doing.

I can't say whether you'll hear an improvement or not. I tired the short wire run.. but couldn't hear any difference in my rt1000i and rt800i's.

Al

thajones · May 2003

I actually have never tried bi-wiring, had a bit of difficulty convincing the Mrs that I just "had to have" those Macintosh monoblocks

.

I suppose if nothing else I've eliminated one more point of failure in the quest for "perfect sound."

Interesting note though: Doing this made the banana plugs I used not seat completely in the binding posts, since I'm using bare wire. Overkill to even bother using spades for the wire jumpers?

DarqueKnight · May 2003

Originally posted by thajones
Overkill to even bother using spades for the wire jumpers?

If it adds to your musical enjoyment and the convenience of the use of your system, it is not overkill.

I, like others, have always heard an improvement when replacing the flat metal binding post straps with heavy gauge speaker wire.

gidrah · May 2003

Originally posted by thajones
I actually have never tried bi-wiring, had a bit of difficulty convincing the Mrs that I just "had to have" those Macintosh monoblocks .

Duh, I got the quote, but not my $.02

Bi-wiring doesn't need any additional amps. It is just running 2 sets of wires from one amp. I too have replaced the jumpers on a set of speakers. It works and is easy to do.

Bi-amping needs separate/additional amps, but that's a whole different story.

HBombToo · May 2003

Originally posted by gidrah

all the more reason to biamp:rolleyes:

gidrah · May 2003

Yep, gotta do something with 'em.

Tour2ma · May 2003

Mac mono-blocks..... need pictures... need pictures....

thajones · May 2003

Yeah, I'm slow. I just read an article yesterday that explained the whole bi-amp/bi-wire thing.

The bi-amping thing does not increase the load to the amp? I would think running in parallel would change the load, making it less efficient (higher ohms)?

Tour2ma · May 2003

Good question, tj I never stopped to think about the load impact of bi-amping, but yes, you are eliminating the parallel operation of drivers so the impedance seen would rise. However, I would not assume that increasing impedance would reduce speaker sensitivity.

The gain is reduced frequency duty for the amps great deal for the mid/ hi freq amp, not so much for the amp driving the woofer(s). Still in bi-amping, assuming identical amps all the way around, you are doubling the power available.

Anyway there is a third option some employ, bridging amps to mono, with or without bi-wiring. But that kind of brings us full circle in your case

Change the jumper between the posts?

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