SpeakOn "upgrade" Polk SDA IIb

Well if someone had told me I would not have believed them. It's not that I do not trust people I have just never really believed that cable makes a difference that I could hear. Keep in mind I said that I could hear..I am an old man so my hearing is not what one would call top notch.. So, in order to start with a few more upgrades that are recommended I decided to order SpeakOn connectors, female and male for both SDAs of course. I had some incredibly flexible no kink silicon (I would think) cable. I think it is the kind we used to use setting up electrical/sound when I did a few gigs as a stage hand in the past. I wanted to use it because a friend as close as a brother gave it to me before his Spirit passed..Well, his Spirit must have passed into the cable. This is an Incredible difference. I do not understand as it seems to have changed the tweeters/high end for the better. In fact the speakers sound better period. I was using a temporary cable, 8g not very well insulated, well insulated with some hard plastic or whatever. It was supposed to be used to hook up a car amplifier. I made two ends for it with an assortment of Levtron AC plugs and ground lugs. I think 1/2 of the power going from one speaker to the other was being sucked up by that crazy cable but hell, I had to do something. Well, that something now is a proper cable just as you guys said. Don't get me wrong, I can follow advice, its just that I have to take things a bit at a time, you know when I have a few spare bucks. So, lesson learned. I know now not to use a big huge cable that should be used for a battery cable when 14g is recommended !

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Back of the SDA
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Cup before upgrade
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SpeakOn Cable built
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The smartphone is my friend..An image to remember where the cables went.
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Z.O. Cheapo brand Binding Posts
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A quick test fit
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The stuff going in
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A small screwdriver to lift the factory glue
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Drill out rivets
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Now this is my idea of fun
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I used Armacel for "gaskets"
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Armacel was cut with a small razor knife
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All together with threadlock
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Only a drop on front and a drop in the back and it still made a bit of a mess.
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Done !
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A handy tool from my Jeweler days
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Used a "rat tail file" to open up the connectors a bit.
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Ready to go back in.
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The round "rat tail" jewelers file was a friend throughout the whole job.
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I do not like these "silver bolts" they were all I had on hand..If I just knew where to get "Black Paint" !
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Yes Red "Sharpie Anodized" bolts for lack of "Black paint" and Yes, two sets of speaker wires..Kenwood M2 Sigma drive hook up.


Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,511
    Thanks for sharing your work.

    Just a word, the SpeakOn sockets are designed to be mounted on the outside. There's a different smaller version, the NL4MP-UC that works better for that mounting and is also (very important) air tight, which I do not believe your version is.

    You should seal the binding post studs/nuts and SpeakOn stuff with hot glue.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,154
    orniirg3a7bg.png
    279inrf7pj6i.png
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    That sounds right to me. The surface was not level. The only thing I used to seal the bolts was red lock tight. I started grinding the front surface in order to try and make it more level but decided to go for the back mount for no other reason but looks, however I have yet to turn the speakers around and listen backwards just to look at the binding post caps! I will look into the part number Speakon connectors you recommend. I started to use some Mortite around the SpeakOn connection however I knew it would squirt out everywhere and the grey color of it coming out around that SpeakOn connection would run me crazy. So, let's see what happens. I still have plenty of work to do in there and a camera ready. I appreciate your input more than you know F 1. Fact is when you post about anything that I am doing I feel much more confident that I can and will move in the right direction.
  • I also was a non believer w/ this one mod, tried it myself getting it woefully wrong and then sending the 2 terminal cups and harnesses out to Dave. I get back 2 new cups I ditched my old ones and he did an excellent job both w/ the cups, binders,bases and harnesses and doing the air-tight thing w/ hot glue and the correct gasket. I'm using 12gu cable and the sound is much more defined and in conjunction of me changing my rack to an open air Stanus with the new cable I'm getting the SDA treatment as it be reproduced and all the speakers are pumping like they should. I have already passed on my original blade/blade cable to another forumite, I see no reason to have it and the positioning can't change in my house.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • BlueBirdMusicBlueBirdMusic Registered User Posts: 301
    Great pictures showing sequence of work. What is that Handy Tool from your jewelry days?

    A kind gesture to remember your friend:
    I wanted to use it because a friend as close as a brother gave it to me before his Spirit passed..Well, his Spirit must have passed into the cable.

    We are lucky if we only have one of these type friends.
    Harry
  • machonemachone Posts: 1,017
    I did not know that the 4 bolt version was not air tight.
    How did I miss that? Where is that info?
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 24 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,154
    Use the two hole mount, with the rubber gasket.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    Use the two hole mount, with the rubber gasket.

    Wow, that is the reason I did not order it. Only two bolt holes, just did not seem right..The lessons I learn..
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    Great pictures showing sequence of work. What is that Handy Tool from your jewelry days?

    A kind gesture to remember your friend:
    I wanted to use it because a friend as close as a brother gave it to me before his Spirit passed..Well, his Spirit must have passed into the cable.

    We are lucky if we only have one of these type friends.
    Harry

    Its a Flex shaft tool like the one shown here,
    http://www.foredom.net/jewelersprepackedkits.aspx
    however much much older. A motor on top connected to a flexible shaft with a chuck on the end that looks like a Dremel tool but much smaller. The speed is adjusted with a foot pedal. Hope a link to see one is ok. ( 0.000 % -0= No affiliation )

    Thank you for you kind comment about my Brother Ronnie. His ashes are on the mantle above the fireplace. His Spirit is in that cable, I know it ! I am more than just lucky, as I am a friend of Bill W. and I have many close friends due to that as well as friends like here that have helped me so often that I cannot even count.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    F1nut wrote: »
    Thanks for sharing your work.

    Just a word, the SpeakOn sockets are designed to be mounted on the outside. There's a different smaller version, the NL4MP-UC that works better for that mounting and is also (very important) air tight, which I do not believe your version is.

    You should seal the binding post studs/nuts and SpeakOn stuff with hot glue.

    F I, as it is now I have a five second return to position on my Midwoofers when pushing in the Passive and releasing it (exactly the same on both speakers). Is that what I should have or should it be completely airtight and not return at all ? As far as the new SpeakOns for the speaker side I have four holes drilled should I seal what I have up or go ahead and get the other ones and seal the holes ?

  • machonemachone Posts: 1,017
    vsat88,
    I used the four bolt receptacle that you used on my 1A's along with a home made gasket (see photos). If you have a five second push test you should be fine.m704bu0mrxz7.jpg
    7qzx1xzd4e74.jpg
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 24 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    Thanks for the response. I did exactly the same as you did with the gasket. I am still going to do the hot glue thing as well.
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,154
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    Use the two hole mount, with the rubber gasket.

    Wow, that is the reason I did not order it. Only two bolt holes, just did not seem right..The lessons I learn..

    I use the two hole mount 95% of the time, including some local bands I do work for. If it can handle 3-4 gigs a week, setup and breakdown, it can handle an occasional plug and unplug on the SDAs.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,823
    I used the speak on conector in my rta12c's between the lower and upper xover, works very well, and easy to work with.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    Just an update here. I did as recommended above by @F1nut and @westmassguy on the new to me SDA-SRS 2 speakers with great results. Used the two hole Speakon connectors instead of the larger four hole. Jotted down these part numbers in my notes but do not count on these being exact. Be sure and look for yourself as I cannot remember if these are accurate.

    NL4MP-UC (Male Connector x2)
    NLT4FX-BAG (Female connector x2)

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,511
    Those are the part numbers to the 4 pole versions, which are the ones you want to use because they are better than the 2 pole versions.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    F1nut wrote: »
    Those are the part numbers to the 4 pole versions, which are the ones you want to use because they are better than the 2 pole versions.

    Yes Sir, those are the ones I used.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,511
    Good man.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • stones89stones89 Posts: 224
    Impressive work VSAT88 especially the photography! I am trying to get motivated to upgrade my 2.3tl's. I am going to start with the crossover and possibly a dreadnought since I use mono blocks. The support everyone gets on this site is incredible. Though I wish I was as handy as you!
    Basis 2200 Signature, Vector 4, Transfiguration Proteus, Allnic H3000, CJ ET5, McIntosh 501's, Thiel CS6, 3.6, MIT EVO, Wywires PC's
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 583
    stones89 wrote: »
    Impressive work VSAT88 especially the photography! I am trying to get motivated to upgrade my 2.3tl's. I am going to start with the crossover and possibly a dreadnought since I use mono blocks. The support everyone gets on this site is incredible. Though I wish I was as handy as you!

    Awe Shucks, you making me blush..LOl, You are as handy as I am, believe me you are. I just jump in and try it. I am always on the look out at flea markets and Pawn shops for old tools I can rebuild/use or parts of any kind. I just try and do what I can and these folk here at Club Polk as well as the fine folks at Polk Audio help me every step of the way. Just jump on in the water is fine !
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