Do I need speaker terminal jumpers?

afterburnt

I have the Polk factory plated jumper plates and wondered it is worth replacing them with jumper wires. If I decide to make some myself what materials should I use?

Thanks
Bruce

ZLTFUL

Typically, a quality length of speaker wire is a vast improvement over the stock brass jumper plates.

afterburnt

Z should I use the same speaker wire that I have or do I need something different? I guess I will need some good crimp on spades, any inexpensive recommendations?

Nightfall

How inexpensive? Douglas could probably make something up for you.

PSOVLSK

afterburnt wrote: »

Z should I use the same speaker wire that I have or do I need something different? I guess I will need some good crimp on spades, any inexpensive recommendations?

The wire you have should be fine. I've always just used bare wire, but spades would work too.

voltz

I saw some really nice one on Ebay once so I bought them and save me having to make some myself, they were only like $19 or $16.

pumpkinman

I made some from van den Hul wire I won't be needing. It 3-14 gauge wires per jumper and they are not terminated. If you like PM your particulars and I'll send them to you. You can terminate them as you please or leave them as is.

P-man

pumpkinman

They are that pretty but they'll work just fine

helipilotdoug

We made these 10AWG jumpers as a special order for a customer who wanted ring terminals instead of spades or bananas. Retail on them was $104. We can make you whatever you want or we have the parts if you want to DIY them. Let me know if we can help.

afterburnt

Doug those look nice but I am not looking to spend that kind of coin, I have a lot of speakers that I want to change over. Those ring terminals look like the way to go. I did not see those on your site.

voight1

Just made these the other day..not the best thing out there. But probably better than the stock ones.

bryantspaint

pumpkinman i would really be interested in the jumpers if you still have. For my new rti12s.

ken brydson

helipilotdoug wrote: »

We made these 10AWG jumpers as a special order for a customer who wanted ring terminals instead of spades or bananas. Retail on them was $104. We can make you whatever you want or we have the parts if you want to DIY them. Let me know if we can help.

Those look similar to what I use...

helipilotdoug

afterburnt wrote: »

Doug those look nice but I am not looking to spend that kind of coin, I have a lot of speakers that I want to change over. Those ring terminals look like the way to go. I did not see those on your site.

That set was a special order. We usually use either spades or bananas. I do have some of those ring terminals left over. They have a 3/8 hole size to go over Cardas binding posts once you remove the screw on part. PM me if you are interested.

quicksilvergts

What cable are you currently using?
If you have more than enough length for your mains. Cut some off and purchase some bananas/spades or bare wire and us that. Then you will still have the same exact cable you are using to for your speakers but now they are going to both posts. I did it with my cables and love it and my Rti10 did not have jumpers lol.

pumpkinman

Sendin

bryantspaint wrote: »

pumpkinman i would really be interested in the jumpers if you still have. For my new rti12s.

Sending you a PM

afterburnt

I am thinking of doing all of my speakers except the fronts with raw unterminated wire will 12 AWG be ok?

teekay0007

afterburnt wrote: »

I am thinking of doing all of my speakers except the fronts with raw unterminated wire will 12 AWG be ok?

Yes.

aprazer402

Is it strictly personal preference whether the jumpers are screwed down with either bare wires or spades to the binding posts OR inserted into the ends with bananas? I'm inquiring as I need to upgrade the jumpers and cables on several pair. Since I haven't selected the termination for the MIT EXP 1 speaker cables which of the two jumper location options would be better for say, 1.2TL, 2.3 or 1C. Thank you.

Moose68Bash

I prefer bi-wiring my 1.2TLs, and I don't understand why you are asking about jumpers for 1Cs, which have only one set of binding posts per speaker.

aprazer402

You're correct 1C's have only one binding post, so the 1.2TL, 2.3 and RTi4's are some I have with dual binding posts w/jumpers. I'll consider bi-wiring the big ones and remove the jumpers if I do that. Otherwise my question about the best position for the jumpers remains. Thanks.

F1nut

Otherwise my question about the best position for the jumpers remains. Thanks.

It matters not.

afterburnt

pumpkinman wrote: »

I made some from van den Hul wire I won't be needing. It 3-14 gauge wires per jumper and they are not terminated. If you like PM your particulars and I'll send them to you. You can terminate them as you please or leave them as is.

P-man

P-man I got them today. I can't wait to hear them hooked up!

Thanks again you are very generous to help me out!

pumpkinman

afterburnt wrote: »

pumpkinman wrote: »

I made some from van den Hul wire I won't be needing. It 3-14 gauge wires per jumper and they are not terminated. If you like PM your particulars and I'll send them to you. You can terminate them as you please or leave them as is.

P-man

P-man I got them today. I can't wait to hear them hooked up!

Thanks again you are very generous to help me out!

Great and Enjoy

Bill

voltz

Nice one P-man!

11tsteve

not worried about corrosion on bare wire?

tonyb

ZLTFUL wrote: »

Typically, a quality length of speaker wire is a vast improvement over the stock brass jumper plates.

This ^^^

You don't need anything fancy, though you can if you want to.

11tsteve

kevintomb wrote: »

11tsteve wrote: »

not worried about corrosion on bare wire?

I put heat shrink over the part between the terminals.

I meant the bare wire inside the binding post. I used to be a bare wire guy until I found the copper greening, especially in humid summertime.

afterburnt

I ended up using audioquest gold plated copper spades with the same Furez wire. I still want some non brass bananas.

tratliff

I generally build jumpers out of extra, same kind, speaker wire that is being used but have recently gone the bi-wire route.

kevintomb wrote: »

This seems to work great. I simply run about a 3 inch length of wire stripped through both terminals. Eliminates any possible detrimental effect of jumpers AND of having a few more connections to possibly go wrong.

Also quite hard to beat free!

Pic is older, but later put a small strip of heat shrink on the part between the terminals. Made it look neater.

^^^^^^^^
My questions have finally been answered!

afterburnt

Deoxit gold may help. It is pretty dry here but I put it on just in case. Guns have a hard time rusting in this climate.