Do I need speaker terminal jumpers?

I have the Polk factory plated jumper plates and wondered it is worth replacing them with jumper wires. If I decide to make some myself what materials should I use?

Thanks
Bruce
«1

Comments

  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,640
    Typically, a quality length of speaker wire is a vast improvement over the stock brass jumper plates.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Z should I use the same speaker wire that I have or do I need something different? I guess I will need some good crimp on spades, any inexpensive recommendations?
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,042
    How inexpensive? Douglas could probably make something up for you.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

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  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 5,021
    edited April 2015
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Z should I use the same speaker wire that I have or do I need something different? I guess I will need some good crimp on spades, any inexpensive recommendations?
    The wire you have should be fine. I've always just used bare wire, but spades would work too.
    Post edited by PSOVLSK on
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    I saw some really nice one on Ebay once so I bought them and save me having to make some myself, they were only like $19 or $16.
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

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  • pumpkinman
    pumpkinman Posts: 9,497
    I made some from van den Hul wire I won't be needing. It 3-14 gauge wires per jumper and they are not terminated. If you like PM your particulars and I'll send them to you. You can terminate them as you please or leave them as is.

    P-man
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  • pumpkinman
    pumpkinman Posts: 9,497
    mbjiobhqkj3i.jpg

    They are that pretty but they'll work just fine
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    Because I am The Pumpkinking


    A Kind Word Is An Easy Gift To Give
  • helipilotdoug
    helipilotdoug Posts: 1,229
    We made these 10AWG jumpers as a special order for a customer who wanted ring terminals instead of spades or bananas. Retail on them was $104. We can make you whatever you want or we have the parts if you want to DIY them. Let me know if we can help.vzi6bgbwbxz5.jpg
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
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    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
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    FXiA4
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    http://www.douglasconnection.com
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Doug those look nice but I am not looking to spend that kind of coin, I have a lot of speakers that I want to change over. Those ring terminals look like the way to go. I did not see those on your site.
  • voight1
    voight1 Posts: 51
    oy0u5rsg21kv.jpg
    Just made these the other day..not the best thing out there. But probably better than the stock ones.
  • pumpkinman i would really be interested in the jumpers if you still have. For my new rti12s.
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,638
    We made these 10AWG jumpers as a special order for a customer who wanted ring terminals instead of spades or bananas. Retail on them was $104. We can make you whatever you want or we have the parts if you want to DIY them. Let me know if we can help.vzi6bgbwbxz5.jpg

    Those look similar to what I use...

    gjfv4hmv6hl5.jpg




  • helipilotdoug
    helipilotdoug Posts: 1,229
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Doug those look nice but I am not looking to spend that kind of coin, I have a lot of speakers that I want to change over. Those ring terminals look like the way to go. I did not see those on your site.

    That set was a special order. We usually use either spades or bananas. I do have some of those ring terminals left over. They have a 3/8 hole size to go over Cardas binding posts once you remove the screw on part. PM me if you are interested.
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
    CSiA6
    FXiA4
    FXiA6
    SDA 2A's
    Monitor 10A's

    http://www.douglasconnection.com
  • quicksilvergts
    quicksilvergts Posts: 274
    edited April 2015
    What cable are you currently using?
    If you have more than enough length for your mains. Cut some off and purchase some bananas/spades or bare wire and us that. Then you will still have the same exact cable you are using to for your speakers but now they are going to both posts. I did it with my cables and love it and my Rti10 did not have jumpers lol. qgw8uhww40gh.jpg
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    your BOLD enough to make it happen"
  • pumpkinman
    pumpkinman Posts: 9,497
    Sendin
    pumpkinman i would really be interested in the jumpers if you still have. For my new rti12s.

    Sending you a PM
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    Because I am The Pumpkinking


    A Kind Word Is An Easy Gift To Give
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    edited April 2015
    I am thinking of doing all of my speakers except the fronts with raw unterminated wire will 12 AWG be ok?
  • teekay0007
    teekay0007 Posts: 2,289
    afterburnt wrote: »
    I am thinking of doing all of my speakers except the fronts with raw unterminated wire will 12 AWG be ok?

    Yes.
  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 3,087
    Is it strictly personal preference whether the jumpers are screwed down with either bare wires or spades to the binding posts OR inserted into the ends with bananas? I'm inquiring as I need to upgrade the jumpers and cables on several pair. Since I haven't selected the termination for the MIT EXP 1 speaker cables which of the two jumper location options would be better for say, 1.2TL, 2.3 or 1C. Thank you.
  • Moose68Bash
    Moose68Bash Posts: 3,842
    I prefer bi-wiring my 1.2TLs, and I don't understand why you are asking about jumpers for 1Cs, which have only one set of binding posts per speaker.
    Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.

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  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 3,087
    You're correct 1C's have only one binding post, so the 1.2TL, 2.3 and RTi4's are some I have with dual binding posts w/jumpers. I'll consider bi-wiring the big ones and remove the jumpers if I do that. Otherwise my question about the best position for the jumpers remains. Thanks.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Otherwise my question about the best position for the jumpers remains. Thanks.

    It matters not.
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  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    pumpkinman wrote: »
    I made some from van den Hul wire I won't be needing. It 3-14 gauge wires per jumper and they are not terminated. If you like PM your particulars and I'll send them to you. You can terminate them as you please or leave them as is.

    P-man
    P-man I got them today. I can't wait to hear them hooked up!

    Thanks again you are very generous to help me out!
  • pumpkinman
    pumpkinman Posts: 9,497
    afterburnt wrote: »
    pumpkinman wrote: »
    I made some from van den Hul wire I won't be needing. It 3-14 gauge wires per jumper and they are not terminated. If you like PM your particulars and I'll send them to you. You can terminate them as you please or leave them as is.

    P-man
    P-man I got them today. I can't wait to hear them hooked up!

    Thanks again you are very generous to help me out!

    Great and Enjoy

    Bill
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    Because I am The Pumpkinking


    A Kind Word Is An Easy Gift To Give
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    Nice one P-man! B)
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • 11tsteve
    11tsteve Posts: 1,166
    not worried about corrosion on bare wire?
    Polk Lsi9
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Typically, a quality length of speaker wire is a vast improvement over the stock brass jumper plates.

    This ^^^

    You don't need anything fancy, though you can if you want to.
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  • 11tsteve
    11tsteve Posts: 1,166
    kevintomb wrote: »
    11tsteve wrote: »
    not worried about corrosion on bare wire?

    I put heat shrink over the part between the terminals.
    I meant the bare wire inside the binding post. I used to be a bare wire guy until I found the copper greening, especially in humid summertime.
    Polk Lsi9
    N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
    NAD 1020 completely refurbished
    Keces DA-131 mk.II
    Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
    Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    I ended up using audioquest gold plated copper spades with the same Furez wire. I still want some non brass bananas.
  • tratliff
    tratliff Posts: 1,651
    I generally build jumpers out of extra, same kind, speaker wire that is being used but have recently gone the bi-wire route.

    kevintomb wrote: »
    5qr4vkz0gwg7.jpg

    This seems to work great. I simply run about a 3 inch length of wire stripped through both terminals. Eliminates any possible detrimental effect of jumpers AND of having a few more connections to possibly go wrong.

    Also quite hard to beat free!

    Pic is older, but later put a small strip of heat shrink on the part between the terminals. Made it look neater.

    ^^^^^^^^
    My questions have finally been answered!
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  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Deoxit gold may help. It is pretty dry here but I put it on just in case. Guns have a hard time rusting in this climate.