(2) MM2104 + PA1200.1 setup ?'s
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sshrum
Posts: 3
I have a pair of Momo MM2104 (10-inch, 600 watt peak, 4 ohm) speakers in a self-made 3/4-inch small-particle MDF, silicone sealed & padded speaker box (1-cubic foot of airspace each minus the presence of the woofer itself) in the back of my '80 Volvo 240 GL (hehe, the cops never suspect).
Currently, I have a 18-year old (damn thing still works) 300-watt (rated 400-watt after a quick trip back to the plant) Rockford-Fosgate Punch 2-channel amp powering both of them in a stereo setup (yes, there is such a thing as stereo bass). I originally had a pair of comp Cerwin-Vega 10" paper (cone) and foam (rim) speakers but the corrosive force of time, heat, and usage rendered them dead. I've re-coned them before but my music tastes have changed and I need/want tighter hitting (poly) subs.
I've noted of late that I'm max'ing out my head unit volume and distorting the audio because I don't feel that I'm getting enough bass out of the back of the car. I want to bring the amount of clean *THUMP* up ergo I'm going to get a bigger amp(s).
It's been a long time since I first set up the box so I've forgotten a lot of the wiring/amp tweaks and tricks so I'm looking for 'reminders' and 'hints'.
I did a bit of research and noted that a Polk PA1200.1 will output 400 watts to a 4 ohm load but if I drop the stereo-aspect of my setup and hook up both subs in parallel, I'd get a 2 ohm load and therefore will be able to get the max 600-watts to both of the woofers (although in mono).
Is this the best way to set this up if I want to maximize wattage and increase *thump*? What are my odds of blowing the woofers in a parallel setup (if any since the MM2104 is rated at 600-watts max)? Any other advice?
This will at least start me up for later when I get dual VC SR woofers later and wanna run 1 Ohm. :-)
TIA
"Once I'm deaf, I'd still like to 'feel' the music"
Currently, I have a 18-year old (damn thing still works) 300-watt (rated 400-watt after a quick trip back to the plant) Rockford-Fosgate Punch 2-channel amp powering both of them in a stereo setup (yes, there is such a thing as stereo bass). I originally had a pair of comp Cerwin-Vega 10" paper (cone) and foam (rim) speakers but the corrosive force of time, heat, and usage rendered them dead. I've re-coned them before but my music tastes have changed and I need/want tighter hitting (poly) subs.
I've noted of late that I'm max'ing out my head unit volume and distorting the audio because I don't feel that I'm getting enough bass out of the back of the car. I want to bring the amount of clean *THUMP* up ergo I'm going to get a bigger amp(s).
It's been a long time since I first set up the box so I've forgotten a lot of the wiring/amp tweaks and tricks so I'm looking for 'reminders' and 'hints'.
I did a bit of research and noted that a Polk PA1200.1 will output 400 watts to a 4 ohm load but if I drop the stereo-aspect of my setup and hook up both subs in parallel, I'd get a 2 ohm load and therefore will be able to get the max 600-watts to both of the woofers (although in mono).
Is this the best way to set this up if I want to maximize wattage and increase *thump*? What are my odds of blowing the woofers in a parallel setup (if any since the MM2104 is rated at 600-watts max)? Any other advice?
This will at least start me up for later when I get dual VC SR woofers later and wanna run 1 Ohm. :-)
TIA
"Once I'm deaf, I'd still like to 'feel' the music"
Post edited by sshrum on
Comments
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Do not look at 'MAX' or 'PEAK' specs, as they are meaningless.
If your low-pass filter is set correctly, you will not hear any difference between 'stereo bass' and mono bass. Wiring your subs in parallel to the PA1200.1 should work just fine, since the amp does 600W @ 2-ohms (or 300W to each sub). In that box size, excursion should be kept just under their linear limits at full power, so I'd say it's a good match.Friends don't let friends listen to Bose.
