What makes an Amp go into Standby ?
Comments
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My Adcom 585 Input Board Capacitors leaked BearDog.I`ll post a pic in a few minutes...I think I found the problem..
A cap has leaked the brown stuff out the bottm of it..
and it`s right on the top board...easy to get to..
Thanks for the hook-up..
I will get ahold of Tony and get the schematics Monday
The electrolyte can destroy the board, get it wiped off asap -
I was wondering about that...
What should I use to clean the board with ?
Denatured alchol ?
Shadow,
I go to pick up the new one at 3 pm
I will definately look into that...I was thinking the same thing...
maybe I will upgrade both and Bi-Amp the LSi`s
That would be nice !!Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
Methalhydrate should work.I was wondering about that...
What should I use to clean the board with ?
bear, are you certain it is electrolyte and not just epoxy used to keep the caps secure to the board?Sometimes epoxy is used for this purpose and can look like a leaky cap,just a thought.A leaky cap will smell bad,like dead fish:eek:
Do any of the caps look swelled or have any physical damage ?Testing
Testing
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Not really...not swollen like they were going to blow the splits apart..
The one on the top board has oozed about the size of a quarter or so..
The others are on the tops and some top and bottom..
I will get some better pic`s , as I just got home with the new one, and I`m done hooking her up to her new home !!
I got a fair deal, not stellar, but fair...
I was able totalk him down a couple of Franklins
Less than 50 hrs he says....looks like it too..!!Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
man This thing is BRAND NEW!!!
:cool:
I just thought of something...
don`t laugh, but because of lack of rack, I have the amp sitting on the PB10 sub....didn`t realize the vibration was so bad until I turned the new amp on and it started rattling....
:rolleyes:
okay
Flame away....!!!Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
Nah I don't think we need anymore flaming on this board for a while.:Dflame away....!!!Testing
Testing
Testing -
cool
I have had one of those days today anyway....Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
beardog,
I suspect that you are seeing the epoxy/glue on those caps. My PLD-2000 has this stuff all over the board, but the caps are just fine.
However, my HCA-2200 did have a few leakers in the powersupply section. The difference is that if they are leaked electrolyte, the residue will be somewhat crystalline, not glue-like. It will chip away easily like dried salt. The glue won't do that. Also, if that many caps were bad from leaking, your amp would have developed a terrible hum due to lack of filtering. Also, those little caps probably wouldn't cause the amp to go into protection mode, it would just sound terrible.
Edit: I'm not saying that wouldn't be beneficial to replace all those caps, but it may not be the actual problem with the amp going into protection mode. Given the value of that amp, I would pay to have a technician look at it and do it right. Heck, since you are in the Bay Area, it might be possible to take it straight to Parasound and have them fix it. -
No leaky caps...all glue...I went to Bears place last night. One out of the 5 temperature monitors ( Encapsulated thermistors ) was showing high ohms and causing the front panel fault......the contacts to the board had oxidized ...pulled cleaned all good...amp powered right up in its normal state no indicated problems( Cleaned and tighted all of them while we were in there ...zero temp fault indicators now ) . Bear grabbed some test gear to hook up and we fired it up...checked all 5 channels for output...all were fine...except for one really annoying problem....somtimes one of the 5 relays UNDER the control board would not click stating its associated amp was stable and ready to use.
So we tested the hell out of it...probably over a hundred duty cycles ..and once in a while that relay would not audibly click ( We didnt pull the control board ) and the amp would not ready ( But still no fault indicators on the front panel...all 5 channels would still be green as well as the power indicators would still show normal. ) It was too late to pull the control board and check/swap relays. It's now just an irritating intermittent relay under the control board...with schematics it should be a piece of cake for Bear. ( We both did a bit of overzealous power cycles and blew the fuse on the channel 3 amp
one time ) The first rule of Fight Club is you don't talk about Fight Club -
beardog,
I suspect that you are seeing the epoxy/glue on those caps. My PLD-2000 has this stuff all over the board, but the caps are just fine.
There wasnt one bit of electrolyte anywhere in that sucker...but the glue applicator should have been shot
It was in places it wasnt meant to be...just glue drips ...not one bulge...no leaks. As soon as I looked at the temp sensors and saw the same brown glue holding the screws and all over the heatsink away from components ( Sloppy
) Besides, it was hard as a rock and not that nasty pastey like salt electrolyte crap. Even though it was easy to determine AT the unit...that was a good call by just seeing the pics Bill
The first rule of Fight Club is you don't talk about Fight Club -
shadowofnight wrote: »Even though it was easy to determine AT the unit...that was a good call by just seeing the pics Bill

I was only able to say that because I saw the same thing on my PLD-2000. Sounds like Beardog is well on his way to having the amp in working order. -
I alluded to that very possibility in post #35;)shadowofnight wrote: »...that was a good call by just seeing the pics Bill
Good see your amp is OK bear.:)Testing
Testing
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you guy`s were right....no leaky !!
thanks for all your help last night Shadow....I had a blast tinkering with the amp...
I`ll get her up and running soon enough
The "replacement" amp is really working well ...!!Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool:


