The 2.3TL eagle has landed!!

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solidclub
solidclub Posts: 39
edited December 2006 in Vintage Speakers
Gday Polkies from Australia,

Upon Darqueknight's excellent suggestion, I have recently acquired
a set of MINT (and I mean MINT, I cant believe these things)
SDA-SRS 2.3TL's. They arrived yesterday in fact, to my home town
of Sydney, AUSTRALIA, after travelling more than 16000 kilometres
from NEW HAMPSHIRE, US. Surely this would have to be the longest
distance that anyone has had these shipped? :)

Some of you guys probably spied these on ebay, and it didnt take
much to convince me to buy them after speaking with the seller.
I must say a word in support of Fedex on this one, as inconsistent
as they may be, they got it right.

Now onto a question. I am running these (at a friends place) at
the moment with a PA amp which is rated at 500W per channel
at 8 ohms. I havent had the dial past Midday at this point, but
when it was there, they were shaking the house.

Can someone explain the concept of tweeter protection, or direct
me to a relevant thread? I listened closely to each tweeter, and
it appeared to me that more volume was coming out of the top
tweeter than the lower two. How does the crossover distribute
signal to the tweeters? I noted that as I increased the volume,
the lower tweeters seemed to come to life a bit more.

Is there a way that I can determine that each speaker is working
properly, or is this simply done by ear?

Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you all!!

Alex.
Post edited by solidclub on

Comments

  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2006
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    The tweeters of the SRS 2.3 TL (and the SRS 1.2TL) are arranged in a point source array where each tweeter plays a different part of the frequency spectrum. Therefore, the sound you hear from each tweeter will be different.

    Here is a quote from a SRS TL series brochure:

    "Additionally, the SRS 1.2TL and 2.3TL utilize Polk's Progressive Point Source technology to maintain constant vertical directivity of mid and high frequencies, which prevents undesirable beaming. As frequencies increase, the tweeter array adjusts its radiation area and eventually becomes an ideal point source at the very highest frequencies, eliminating frequency interactions and reflections between multiple drivers."

    Most SDA's use a fast acting self-resetting semiconductor tweeter protection device (polyswitch) to prevent the tweeters from being damaged by a very high amplitude or distorted signal. I removed the polyswitches from all of my SDA's because I found that it diminished high frequency detail by a small amount.

    If you are using a high quality amplifier of adequate power and will not be listening at excessive sound levels, you can safely remove the polyswitches. Later versions of the SDA SRS 3.1TL did not have a polyswitch or any other type of tweeter protection.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited December 2006
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    WOW !
    Australia !

    Way to go on getting some outstanding speaks !
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2006
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    solidclub wrote:
    Is there a way that I can determine that each speaker is working properly, or is this simply done by ear?

    Testing each individual driver is a time consuming, but worthwhile task. Here is what I do.

    1. Push the passive radiator in and out several times and notice the motion of the mid-woofers. They should move in and out smoothly with no "scratchy" sound. If you hear a scratchy sound or if a driver is not moving or moving much differently than the others, it should be replaced.

    2. For sound testing of mid-woofers, I use a two conductor cable with banana plugs on one end and insulated alligator clips on the other end. I use this cable to connect to the output of a small amp in my test rig (amp/preamp/CD player). After connecting a driver to the amp, I turn up the volume on the preamp just enough to hear the sound clearly.

    3. For sound testing of tweeters, I use the same two conductor cable with banana plugs on one end and insulated alligator clips on the other end. This time I attach a 7.5 ohm resistor to the positive terminal of the tweeter and then attach the positive lead of the cable to the other end of the resistor. Then, test as in part 2.

    I use this cable to connect to the output of a small amp in my test rig (amp/preamp/CD player). After connecting a driver to the amp, I turn up the volume on the preamp just enough to hear the sound clearly.

    For test purposes, I use music CD's as well as "test" CD's that contain frequency sweep signals and other test signals.

    Have fun and congrats on your purchase and their safe arrival.:)
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • riglehart
    riglehart Posts: 276
    edited December 2006
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    You might laugh at this, but it will work if you are concerned a tweeter isn't working.

    Take a roll of toilet paper and put the tweeter on one side and your ear on the other (listen through the hole). You will hear the tweeter in question without interference from any of the other tweeters or drivers. It's a quick and dirty way to tell you if it is working.

    I used this method when I was also wondering if the tweeters where working correctly on my 2.3TL. Found two where bad.

    I had the same questions about my 2.3 when I get them. The top tweeter seems to pull most of the load, at least at low/moderate listening levels.
    Jolida Tube
    Polk 11T, 7, 5, 5jr, 4
    Standard equip not worth bragging about.
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited December 2006
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    Alex,

    Congratulations on your new pair of SDA's; that's definitely a long way from NH to Sidney.
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,328
    edited December 2006
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    Congrats on your new 2.3TL's! The pro amp is okay to get acquanited with the 2.3TL's, but eventually you're going to want something smoother. Per the PM you sent me, if there is anything I can do please let me know.

    I would suggest buying a copy of the "SDA Compendium" from Darqueknight. It has a wealth of information about SDAs small and large. Kind of the Bible for SDA owners. Maybe Raige will send you some information.

    Enjoy your speakers and please post any questions you have!
    Carl

  • minipete
    minipete Posts: 1
    edited December 2006
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    Hey guys!

    Thanks for your replies. Here are some photos for your amusement.

    And I think I will invest in the SDA compendium from Darqueknight.

    Enjoy!

    ps the room that you see the speakers in is not the room that
    they will end up in. The room belongs to my friend who owns the
    RTA 12B's in the centre (oh, arent they cute? :) ). Clearly
    the room is not big enough for the SDA's. I had to set them
    up somewhere. Hell, I couldnt let them sit in those boxes over
    Xmas!
  • solidclub
    solidclub Posts: 39
    edited December 2006
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    Hey guys,

    That last post with the username minipete was actually me.
    Im on my friends computer and he was signed in. DANG!

    Anyhow, he is a Polk owner (the pair you see in the pics),
    who lives in Sydney right near me.

    Thanks!

    Alex.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,851
    edited December 2006
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    Nice Christmas gift to yourself. As Raife pointed out, your tweeters are working as they should be, enjoy!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,361
    edited December 2006
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    solidclub wrote:
    That last post with the username minipete was actually me.


    Congratulations on your well traveled speaker acquisition and welcome to the forum!

    BTW, Nice shirt!
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • solidclub
    solidclub Posts: 39
    edited December 2006
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    Hey guys,

    After a long period of listening, I noticed that the top tweeter in the
    left speaker is cutting out, and a crackling/static noise
    can be heard at times coming from the tweeter. I heard this yesterday,
    but the speakers worked fine today, up until now. I have determined
    that it is coming from the speaker somewhere, by checking each of
    the components for a bad connection/fault. Could this problem be a
    polyswitch which is on the way out? When the tweeter works it sings
    like a bird and sounds fanatastic.

    Thanks, Alex.
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2006
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    I don't think that would be a poly switch. It would just cut out. It could be a loose connection to that tweeter. I would check those first.

    I concur with Carl about the amp. It'll work for now, though.

    Welcome to the Club, and congratulations.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,851
    edited December 2006
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    Agreed, not the polyswitch as all the tweeters in that speaker would go out. As Anthony stated, it could be a loose wire, but I think the tweeter is bad. If they are the original SL3000's that's very possible.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2006
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    solidclub wrote:
    After a long period of listening, I noticed that the top tweeter in the left speaker is cutting out, and a crackling/static noise can be heard at times coming from the tweeter.

    As you noticed, the top tweeter does most of the work. It is also the one out of the three that does not have a resistor in series with it. Therefore, if some electrical abuse occured in the past, the top tweeter is going to take the brunt of the hit. If it is the tweeter, what you describe sounds like the tweeter voice coil has been slightly damaged so that it can't reproduce certain frequencies properly. Damage to the tweeter voice coil could also have been caused by a direct impact during packing or shipping. Everything wears out in time, and it could also simply be a case of a tweeter that has reached the end of its life, although, there isn't any hard data on the life expectancy of those tweeters because it depends on how and how much they have been used.

    You can always try switching tweeters around to see if the problem remains in the same place or if it follows the tweeter. If you switch the positions of the top and bottom tweeter and you still hear the noise at the top, and loose connections and amplifier problems have been ruled out, something is wrong with the crossover.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,328
    edited December 2006
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    I agree with Raife, swap the tweeter and see if the crackling follows the tweeter.

    Great picture! Congrats on your new 2.3TL's!!

    Carl
    Carl

  • Refefer
    Refefer Posts: 1,280
    edited December 2006
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    Excellent purchase! You have made more than one music lover envious today ;)

    Dare I ask how much shipping was from literally half way around the world?
    Lovin that music year after year.

    Main 2 Channel System

    Polk SDA-1B,
    Promitheus Audio TVC SE,
    Rotel RB-980BX,
    OPPO DV-970HD,
    Lite Audio DAC AH,
    IXOS XHA305 Interconnects


    Computer Rig

    Polk SDA CRS+,
    Creek Audio 5350 SE,
    Morrow Audio MA1 Interconnect,
    HRT Music Streamer II
  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,314
    edited December 2006
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    Congrats on your new 2.3TL's... they are a hellofa speaker...

    Welcome to Club Polk..You have come to the right place,there are many SDA authorities here that are "full of" information:D
  • solidclub
    solidclub Posts: 39
    edited December 2006
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    Hey guys,

    I tried the speakers and they did the same thing again today.

    I removed the "problem" tweeter and checked the connections.
    They seem fine. I tried them again and the same thing occured.

    I then removed the "problem" tweeter and swapped it with the
    tweeter directly below it. The same problem occured, which
    by Darqueknight's logic tells me that the problem is not with
    the tweeter itself.

    I guess the next option is the crossover. I mean, what else could it
    be? When operating, even at low volumes, the tweeter signal is
    intermittent, and comes through with a static/crackle noise like
    its struggling to break through.

    Are there any other internal connections that I should check
    which relate to that particular tweeter position? Also where is
    the crossover located and how do I access it?

    Thanks SO MUCH guys for all your help!

    Alex.
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited December 2006
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    Alex.. it could also be a problem with you amp/receiver. when it cuts out and crackles like that.. a common problem of intermittent audio. Especially noticed at low volume, "punches through" as volume is increased.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2006
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    Here are some things to check:

    1. Is your amplifier a "common ground" design? SDA's require common ground amps. If you are unfamiliar with the term "common ground", there are many references here on the forum and on the Internet.

    2. Are the connection straps (wires) between the upper binding posts (high frequency) and lower binding posts (low frequency) clean, securely attached to the upper binding posts, and free of any corrosion?

    3. The crossover is accessed by removing the passive radiator. After the screws are removed, you may need to gently pry the rim of the passive radiator away from the front of the speaker. Sometimes they fit tightly in the recessed cutout. The individual driver wires are attached to the crossover circuit board by plug-in wiring harnesses. Make sure these are fitting securely.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • solidclub
    solidclub Posts: 39
    edited December 2006
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    Hey guys,

    Thankyou Darqueknight once again for your suggestions. Ill set the
    scene for you.

    Firstly I checked the links between the wiring posts and confirmed
    that they were clean and making a tight connection.

    The amp with which my friend "minipete" runs his RTA 12C's with is
    an Adcom GFA-585. I have primarily run the speakers thus far with
    this amp. Last nite we had my PA amp hooked up to the
    speakers and they ran without a problem. Come to think of it,
    I may have only encountered the problem when running the Adcom.

    I have since reconnected the speakers to the PA amp, and from what
    I can hear the tweeter is back to working again. I listened closely
    at moderate volume and believe I heard a tiny amount of static or
    crackling noise in the tweeter but I cant hear it now. Im probably
    just imagining it anyway, being a pessimist. Im crossing my
    fingers, as Im anticipating it dropping out at any second.

    Is the Adcom a non-common grounded amp? Or is it an inconsitent
    amp with which to run 2.3 TLs?

    I will continue to run the speakers with the PA amp and let you
    know how it goes.

    Thanks again!

    Alex.
  • solidclub
    solidclub Posts: 39
    edited December 2006
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    In answer to Refefer's question about shipping cost.

    I have a sweet deal with a mate who works for Fedex.

    I was able to ship these at 25% of the regular price.

    That worked out to be $430 US all up.

    You probably couldnt get them from New Hampshire to
    New York for that much (maybe thats an exaggeration?).

    I also managed to evade any duties from Customs at this end,
    as they were all in holiday mode and refused to start up their
    work stations! (so I'm told). Gotta love the festive season!

    Well, lucky me, and as you can see in the photo, Im
    extremely pleased with my acquisition!

    Cheers,

    Alex.
  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2006
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    If the problem did not follow the tweeter, you are having an issue at the crossover.

    Alex, did you check the wire connections at the crossover? There are a products out call DeOxit and DeOxit Gold. I'm not sure if you can get it "Down Under", but you may want to treat all of your connections with a similar product. Chances are this has never been done, and given the age of your speakers, some of the connections may have oxidized and perhaps come a little loose. It would be a good idea to go over all of you connections to clean them and make sure they are all nice, snug fits.
  • bert26
    bert26 Posts: 320
    edited December 2006
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    Hey Solid -

    So THAT's what Australia looks like? Care to hold the next PolkFest? :p

    Congratulations on the purchase - once you get these little things ironed out you will be happy for a very long time!

    Welcome to the forums - I may not have anything technical to add to your troubleshooting you can rest easy that guys like Raife and Anthony will help you out.

    Cheers!
    Chris
    HT Rig
    Polk SDA SRS 2.3tl - Anthem 2 SE
    Polk CSi5 - Adcom 555
    Polk Monitor 30 - HK DPR1005
    SVS PB12 ISD/2
    Denon DCD-1500II
    Sony SXRD 60"
    ShengYa CS-10

    Basement Rig
    Polk SDA SRS2
    Carver 1.5t
    Carver C2
    Technics SLD202
    Some Other Sony DVD/CDP
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2006
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    solidclub wrote:
    Is the Adcom a non-common grounded amp? Or is it an inconsitent amp with which to run 2.3 TLs?

    I do not know if the GFA-585 is common ground or not. I do know that it is the sterophonic version of the GFA-565 mono block amps, and was described by Adcom as a "dual mono" design. As a dual mono design, the grounds of the left and right channels are most likely not connected together. A continuity check between the negative output terminals with a multimeter would tell for sure.

    The negative terminals of the GFA-565 mono amps could be connected together with a wire for a common ground configuration. Since the GFA-585 uses basically the same amplification circuitry as the GFA-565, the GFA-585's grounds could probably be connected together in a similar fashion. Send an email to info@adcom.com to be sure.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • solidclub
    solidclub Posts: 39
    edited December 2006
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    Hey guys,

    Well we seem to have a resolution.

    I ran the speakers for a few hours at varying volumes last
    night and the "problem" tweeter sang loudly and clearly.

    So I guess the answer was that the Adcom was probably
    non common-grounded and the PA amp is.

    As for the next Polkfest, Ill be glad to have it at my place!

    You guys just gotta get yourselves down under, but I'd like
    to see you get on a plane with your 1.2TL's and your amps!

    Thanks so much!!

    Alex.

    ps Darqueknight standby for a Compendium order!
  • Refefer
    Refefer Posts: 1,280
    edited December 2006
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    Mmm, there's nothing like getting a "new" set of speakers, having a problem, and then resolving it. It makes them sound all the more sweeter knowing that they are truly ok and ready to rock.

    For the second time, congrats on the pick up!

    You'll have to post pics when it's setup to your liking in it's final resting spot!
    Lovin that music year after year.

    Main 2 Channel System

    Polk SDA-1B,
    Promitheus Audio TVC SE,
    Rotel RB-980BX,
    OPPO DV-970HD,
    Lite Audio DAC AH,
    IXOS XHA305 Interconnects


    Computer Rig

    Polk SDA CRS+,
    Creek Audio 5350 SE,
    Morrow Audio MA1 Interconnect,
    HRT Music Streamer II
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,328
    edited December 2006
    Options
    Glad the problem got solved for you Alex. You may want to use the "Search" tool to find out about mods and upgrades that will make your 2.3TL's sound even better. Darqueknights Compendium has a lot of this information also. Tweeter upgrades are probably the easiest, although it will cost about $400 US. I highly recommend it.

    What kind of music are you listening to?

    Congrats again and welcome to the Club Polk Forums!

    Carl:)
    Carl

  • Poee7R
    Poee7R Posts: 904
    edited December 2006
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    Congrats on the TL's.

    Ive just recently bought a pair for a member here and im absolutely in love withem. Even though the top tweeter on the left channel is dead they still sound great.

    My wife is from brisbane and it looks like we might be moving there in Sep 07. I wonder if the 2.3's can be considered carry on's. ;)

    Dave
    Once again we meet at last.