Sound absorbtion

amulford · August 2005

What do you guys use for sound absorbtion? I know Dynamat is popular, but it's expensive as hell.

I was looking at the asphalt based stuff fron PE, and this other stuff called Fat Mat.

Any comments?

Meeks32 · August 2005

Dont buy dynamat! I got some stuff called Brown Bread, its basically the same as dynamat extreme. I paid around $100 for 70sqft of it about 2 years ago & now I see its up to $180, Its still alot cheaper than dynamat but I guess its getting popular so they are raising the price.

MacLeod · August 2005

Dynamat and others are mainly used for vibration damping rather than soundproofing. Most new cars today are pretty quiet and about the only way to soundproof the car is to take out the interior and thats a major pain in the ****.

I usually buy Dynamat 4 ft2 sheet for liike $30. If you mount your speakers in the doors then youll want to apply it to the door panel and maybe some on the door skin.

They also sell kits for trunks, license plates and other.

amulford · August 2005

That's what I mean, vibration dampening. I'm just wondering if the alternatives work as well as Dynamat.

MacLeod · August 2005

Im sure they all work well.

I used Tsunami Silencer for a while but since Dynamat came out with the 4 ft2 for $30 pack Ive been using it more. Plus I thought the Dynamat seemed a little more dense than the Tsunami.

Dynamat is easy to find also. Virtually every shop carries it as well as Best Buy and Tweeter. That convenience is worth a lot to me too. Basically I dont think the cheaper alternatives are that much cheaper and since I only ever need a couple sqaure feet of it at a time, Ill stick with it.

Here is the pack Im talking about. It was $30 at Tweeter but Sounddomain has it for $20. I doubt youll get a better deal than that for as good a quality.

spwuinmk67 · August 2005

Fatmat I heard good things about a long time ago, but since then it's been negative. SecondSkin is great stuff though. Myself and Austin I know have used it, Cody I think is planning on it too. www.secondskinaudio.com

PoweredByDodge · August 2005

they're all good - just use whatever is cheapest... it'll do the job so long as you remove all your interior panels, and even the carpeting and roof liner if you're ambitious, skin the whole car with the ****, and then re-install your interior... it'll be a very tight fit, but you'll DEFINATELY notice the differece.

neomagus00 · August 2005

now, that stuff is pretty heavy, is there a lightweight alternative? i'm looking to lighten my car a bit, and since it has about 12 tons of foam, i figured that'd be a good place to start... but when i take the 12 tons of foam out, it'll be hella loud, and that's no good, but i also can't put 12 tons of damping back in, that's just pointless...

p.s. sorry for momentarily hijacking your thread

PoweredByDodge · August 2005

*scratches head*

i actually like dynamat original - its lighter and thinner (at least i think it is... isn't it??) than the extreme silvery dynamat... bit cheaper, and does the job fine.

Meeks32 · August 2005

70sqft of dynamat extreme or brown bread will weigh about 31lbs. That was enough to do my entire trunk well, roof, both doors, rear deck & a little bit in other places, well worth the 30lb weight increase. You will have to ditch alot of weight to notice any straight line gains if thats what you are after. If you are worried about performance then look at reducing "unsprung weight", like lighter wheels & brake rotors etc.. For every pound of unsprung weight you remove its like removing 10lbs of regular weight to the car. Also the girls will like your quieter car rather than the extra .005 seconds you gain the the 1/4 mile:)

neomagus00 · August 2005

nah, i get railed on the strip, i much prefer turns

. i'm just experimenting with weight removal, see if i notice a difference; with the stock rear anti-rollbar i could feel a difference between spare tire in and spare out, but i can't with my new anti-rollbar...

and I get annoyed at the noise level, much less the female in the passenger seat... but that's a good point about the unsprung weight. i just jumped from a 15 to a 17, which obviously increased weight, but a) the shorter sidewall made it worth it and b) to get into the really good forged wheels, i'd need an 18, and i'm not ready for that... as far as brakes, they're gonna get bigger eventually, too, so i guess that's that for reducing unsprung weight :rolleyes:

exalted512 · August 2005

light weight=second skin v3, liquid deadening--its what ill be using
-Cody

skydeaner · November 2005

second skin products held up to heat testing better than any other... even dynamat extreme. Go with them, they are cheaper too, I will try to find the website on head to head tests and post it in minute, brb

aha i gots it
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

skydeaner · November 2005

What?! No replys to that showdown page? I at least expected someone to comment... I feel so useless

Jstas · November 2005

Anthony, what is rattling?

I've found that alot of times, it's dorr panels that are rattling due to missing/worn out screws or worn/broken fasteners. You can get small boxes of both for about 5 bucks at any auto parts stores. I'd go that way first 'cause your truck wasn't all that loud on the inside. The biggest noise source in your truck though was probably through teh floor. That rubber floor covering does little to kill road noise. It works great for dirty workin' boots but sucks for road noise absorbtion. Carpeting would do better but that isn't always possible. You might be able to get yourself a new rubber floor covering. What you should do is pull that floor covering out and replace it with a new covering from JC whiney and get some sound deadening material andline teh floor with it. Install the new mat over it and you'll kill alot of noise in teh cab. Check teh interior panels where you are hearing your vibrations and replaced clips where you can. If that still doesn't solve it, then go with a Dynamat like product around the speakers. Just pull teh speakers, place the Dynamat stuff over teh holes, cut the speaker holes out and remount the speakers. No biggie, really. Ford does a good job of lining the insides of the doors with sound deadener so you most likely won't need it there.

That should kill your vibration problems. Vinnie is right though. Almost any product will do so whatever don't hurt your wallet too bad will work fine in 99% of the cases out there. If you need help, let me know. My numbers are still the same.

Now, if you need sound deadening, just find yourself a hairy Italian...like Vinnie...shave him bald from head to toe and glue the hair in place! Works as good as anything out there and if you but the Italian dinner...ah hell, just get him drunk on Old Milwaukee, he'll let the hair go for cheap! If you schmooze him real good, you can probably get him to PAY you to take it! One thing though, just make sure you find one who is wearing a cologne you like.

PoweredByDodge · November 2005

i am very hairy at the moment... and for 11.95 you can have all the hair on my back. however i've already sold my crotch hair to some Phoenecian hotties for a grand, so that's not available any longer... let me know.

ford probably does the best job of "OEM" sound deadening i've seen so far. it's not perfect by any means, but they're the ones who invented "quiet steel" (or at least the first to use it), where you've got two thin pieces of metal with a hunk of something akin to dynamat extreme between them. it makes up the floor pans, roofs and firewalls and some other panels... good stuff.

the big hunks of dense styrofoam in the doors may be a pain to work around when running wires and isntalling speakers, but they work... if it rattles, something as simple as a plain cloth added will always quiet it down.

then you have chrysler -- with its world conquering 0.1 mm thick piece of saran wrap in there... wow... what awesome deadening... in fact its so good that you can almost hear your speakers over the wail of semi trucks going by and your tires on the road. piece of ****.

skydeaner · November 2005

PoweredByDodge wrote:

in fact its so good that you can almost hear your speakers over the wail of semi trucks going by and your tires on the road. piece of ****.

lol, thats like my cavalier

exalted512 · November 2005

the new chrysler have pretty good sound deadending as far as the floor goes. Well, Ive worked on a magnum and a 300 the last couple days and they have decent sound deadening. The carpet is very well padded and theyve increased noise reduction at the fire wall as well.
-Cody

bigaudiofanatic · September 2007

DYNOMAT I swear by it

Installer4life · September 2007

Try EDESIGNAUDIO.com. Their Edead is pretty good and not very espensive. The V1 is $1.00 per square ft. It is not as good as dynamat but its a lot cheaper and works good. Stay away from their liquid stuff, I tried it but had to come back over it with the stick on.

Joelsbass · September 2007

If you're looking to reduce your weight try pulling out your speakers

seriously though, car audio and racing aren't friends, get a second car to toy around with for the track if you're serious about your audio in this one

ilikesound · September 2007

haha YES. but if you are really trying both, second skin is cheap and effective. try their overkill pro too, it eats airborne waves like a cop eats donuts.

ka7niq · October 2007

My kids go to Bass competitions.
They told me about expanding foam.
It is fairly cheap, seems some guys use it.
Tar mixed with sand works real good too, just takes forever to cure, adds weight.
I would think the expanding foam will be the lightest.

najahaja · October 2007

but expanding foam will not stop the resonance on the panels. it works well to fill voids and gaps in the car, but will do little for actual panel resonance, which is why you need a heavier material stuck to the panel which stops that.

ka7niq · October 2007

najahaja wrote: »

but expanding foam will not stop the resonance on the panels. it works well to fill voids and gaps in the car, but will do little for actual panel resonance, which is why you need a heavier material stuck to the panel which stops that.

Like I said, my kids told me about it.
I GUESS the principle is that when the foam expands, it braces the parts, reducing vibration ?

Like we brace a subwoofer cabinet for home use.

Installer4life · October 2007

ka7niq wrote: »

My kids go to Bass competitions.
They told me about expanding foam.
It is fairly cheap, seems some guys use it.
Tar mixed with sand works real good too, just takes forever to cure, adds weight.
I would think the expanding foam will be the lightest.

I was never a roofer but I remember the smell of a roof being tarred. Maybe ok in the northern states but not in Texas.

BaggedLancer · October 2007

Expanding foam is awesome but I'd never use it in a car.....it's too uncontrollable where it spreads and then you have a mess on your hands.
You can buy rolls of gutter shield at home depot for like $10 a roll. Same as dynamat with the sticky rubber on one side and silver coating on the other.

kick · September 2013

The gutter shield seems like a good idea, i have thought about that too. Thick and sticky.. cheaper but essentially the same for deadening. It also is able to waterproof edges and cracks! bonus!!

Sound absorbtion

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