Monitor 5

Grabber70Mach
Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
edited March 3 in Speakers
Hello, first post here. I'm trying to determine the series of a set of Polk Monitor 5 that I picked80n1gdraqn0n.jpg
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up. They don't have a fuse in the back. Thanks for your help. 73dyy1fqze5b.jpg
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,794
    5B. The earliest 5B still had the fuse but they soon got rid of that and went with the polyswitch that you have.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    Thank you for the identification. I'm thinking about rebuilding the crossovers. Is it better to rebuild the original ones or would it be alright to purchase these and rebuild them then just swap them out?rnjt4upqxl5m.jpg
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,199
    So does it make sense to buy another crossover to just rebuild with better caps? Seems like a waste of good dollars that could be better spent on quality caps and resistors.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,794
    I purchased a spare pair of crossovers so I could take my time and still play my speakers. I prefer that 2nd configuration of PCB to the one you have. If you got that one I'd upgrade it instead of the one you currently have.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    @Gardenstater Thank you for iding them.

    @pitdogg2 Thanks. While I see what you're saying they aren't really that expensive.

    @Gardenstater Thanks that's was my plan and thought process if I purchased them.

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,326
    edited March 6
    Nice set of 5Bs.
    Your 2nd upgrade should be the tweeters.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    edited March 6
    So I did get the crossovers I posted above to rebuild just waiting for them to arrive. @xschop Thanks I had been thinking about the tweeters, what would be a better replacement RDO-194 or 198 would be a replacement for the 2000's? If I decided to get the tweeters would I have to change anything in the crossovers? Also trying to determine which capacitors and resistors to get, I'm looking for an upgrade but middle ground that doesn't break the bank. Recommended vendor or vendors. I've seen mills resistors mentioned as well as Clarity and Dayton capacitors. Thanks.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,326
    I dropped in 12uf and 5.6 Clarity PX for the tweeter network with metal plates and 198's originally. I just used Daytons on the MWs (think 33uf on suggestion from WMG for budget at the time)
    Mills 10w coil wound resistors.
    Do butyl mat the MWs and PRs at a minimum.

    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    I believe that the RDO-194 is a direct swap for the 2000's? If that's correct and the RDO-198's require modification. I believe I'd prefer to use the 194's. I should receive the crossovers I ordered today and will verify the components values. Then compile a list of components to order. Also will look at getting some butyl mat for the MW's and PR's. Since I'm going into the cabinets is there anything else I should consider doing or replacing?
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    Also is there a tutorial on gluing th magnets? I've looked but somehow probably missed it.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,199
    I believe that the RDO-194 is a direct swap for the 2000's?
    Yes.
    the RDO-198's require modification.
    Yes.
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    Thanks @pitdogg2

    Is this a good procedure for gluing the magnets?

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184463/a-different-twist-on-the-magnet-gluing-process?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=gluing+magnets+
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,199
    edited March 9
    That certainly shows you the proper place to apply the glue. I'd use JB weld two part epoxy. Popcicle or craft sticks are your friend. It is a long tedious, messy job, take your time and you'll be fine.

    https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-professional-size
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    Thanks
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,918
    I believe that the RDO-194

    RD0(ZERO)194-1

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    Thank You
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,326
    Grabber70Mach wrote: »
    I believe that the RDO-194 is a direct swap for the 2000's? If that's correct and the RDO-198's require modification. I believe I'd prefer to use the 194's. I should receive the crossovers I ordered today and will verify the components values. Then compile a list of components to order. Also will look at getting some butyl mat for the MW's and PR's. Since I'm going into the cabinets is there anything else I should consider doing or replacing?

    I'd suggest a 7/8"- 1" round dowel front to back between MW and PR. Along with hurricane nuts, you'll get the best midbass out of them. The cabs are particle board and front baffle could use stiffening.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,794
    edited 7:17AM
    We don't want to forget the backwave/standing wave absorption behind the midwoofer. I did a 6" x 6" square of Blackhole5 in my 7Bs. If I had to do it again I would try NoRez that doesn't have the floating layer of vinyl with layer of closed cell underneath. Reason being what if Danny Ritchie is correct that BH5 can mass load the cone. Also, I would orient it diagonally to the enclosure, although you'd have to notch out for the dowel mentioned above.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    edited 10:19AM
    @xschop
    See below
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    edited 10:20AM
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Also, I would orient it diagonally to the enclosure, although you'd have to notch out for the dowel mentioned above.

    I'm trying to picture this and having trouble with it. Are you saying you would put it behind the mw from say the front right side if your looking at it from the front, to the back left side. Thanks
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    xschop wrote: »
    I'd suggest a 7/8"- 1" round dowel front to back between MW and PR. Along with hurricane nuts, you'll get the best midbass out of them. The cabs are particle board and front baffle could use stiffening.


    I'm assuming the dowel would need to be attached through the front and back of the box. I'll look into getting some 8-32 hurricane nuts. Thanks

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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,794
    edited 10:37AM
    Grabber70Mach wrote: »
    Gardenstater wrote: »
    Also, I would orient it diagonally to the enclosure, although you'd have to notch out for the dowel mentioned above.

    I'm trying to picture this and having trouble with it. Are you saying you would put it behind the mw from say the front right side if your looking at it from the front, to the back left side. Thanks

    I'm just saying that instead of the way I oriented it here, I would rotate it 45 deg, so that the points face up and down and right and left. Note mine is missing a corner not on purpose but because I was limited by the material a forum member donated to me. You will have to decide what you think works best for you in the M5. In the 7B I would've done two dowels because the baffle is wider and they would clear the corners of the BH5/No Rez just fine with the diagonal orientation. I don't know where the XO plate on the back is located in the M5.

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    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    edited 10:43AM
    I received the crossovers that I plan on rebuilding yesterday.
    02e53fk4s5lp.jpg

    I can make out the values on the resistor and two capacitors. But the small yellow device, maybe capacitor? I cannot really make out what its value is. m9dc98yruv06.jpg


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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,794
    edited 10:50AM
    That's the "polyswitch" that you will want to replace with an appropriate sized resistor of the same quality as the other ones you may be replacing. Polk went with polyswitches instead of fuses at some point, to protect the tweeter. They get more and more troublesome the more times they have been tripped. Everyone does away with them when they upgrade XO but you have to adjust for their resistance. Different value reistors have been used by different people and I don't really know what the best value is. DarqueKnight did a thread on this.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • Grabber70Mach
    Grabber70Mach Posts: 14
    I'm going by this schematic, I believe it is the correct one.
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,794
    Initial trip resistance 0.5 to 0.77 Ohms. One hour post trip resistance 1.17 Ohms. Those are the specs. I think at some point Polk started pre-tripping them. Maybe you want 1 Ohms to replace it. Others will advise.

    https://mm.digikey.com/Volume0/opasdata/d220001/medias/docus/1000/RXE050.pdf
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,199
    edited 11:10AM
    The resistance of the polyswitch is a half ohm, we all used .5ohm 10 or 12 watt vishay-mills resistor in place of the polyswitch.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,918
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    The resistance of the polyswitch is a half ohm, we all used .5ohm 10 or 12 watt vishay-mills resistor in place of the polyswitch.

    THIS
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,326
    edited 1:43PM
    If you're going with 194's, I'd just jumper the polyswitch until you get a good listening session on them.
    If you install billet RDO plates later on the 194's you may want to add the 0.5 ohms. JAT

    The dowel, to be straight front to back, will need to be offset right between 11 & 12 o'clock above PR because of Xover cutout.

    My 5Bs are modded this way also.

    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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