Monitor 5
Grabber70Mach
Posts: 9
Hello, first post here. I'm trying to determine the series of a set of Polk Monitor 5 that I picked
up. They don't have a fuse in the back. Thanks for your help.
T
Tha
up. They don't have a fuse in the back. Thanks for your help.
T
Tha
Comments
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5B. The earliest 5B still had the fuse but they soon got rid of that and went with the polyswitch that you have.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Thank you for the identification. I'm thinking about rebuilding the crossovers. Is it better to rebuild the original ones or would it be alright to purchase these and rebuild them then just swap them out?
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So does it make sense to buy another crossover to just rebuild with better caps? Seems like a waste of good dollars that could be better spent on quality caps and resistors.
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I purchased a spare pair of crossovers so I could take my time and still play my speakers. I prefer that 2nd configuration of PCB to the one you have. If you got that one I'd upgrade it instead of the one you currently have.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
@Gardenstater Thank you for iding them.
@pitdogg2 Thanks. While I see what you're saying they aren't really that expensive.
@Gardenstater Thanks that's was my plan and thought process if I purchased them.
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Nice set of 5Bs.
Your 2nd upgrade should be the tweeters.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
So I did get the crossovers I posted above to rebuild just waiting for them to arrive. @xschop Thanks I had been thinking about the tweeters, what would be a better replacement RDO-194 or 198 would be a replacement for the 2000's? If I decided to get the tweeters would I have to change anything in the crossovers? Also trying to determine which capacitors and resistors to get, I'm looking for an upgrade but middle ground that doesn't break the bank. Recommended vendor or vendors. I've seen mills resistors mentioned as well as Clarity and Dayton capacitors. Thanks.
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I dropped in 12uf and 5.6 Clarity PX for the tweeter network with metal plates and 198's originally. I just used Daytons on the MWs (think 33uf on suggestion from WMG for budget at the time)
Mills 10w coil wound resistors.
Do butyl mat the MWs and PRs at a minimum.
Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I believe that the RDO-194 is a direct swap for the 2000's? If that's correct and the RDO-198's require modification. I believe I'd prefer to use the 194's. I should receive the crossovers I ordered today and will verify the components values. Then compile a list of components to order. Also will look at getting some butyl mat for the MW's and PR's. Since I'm going into the cabinets is there anything else I should consider doing or replacing?
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Also is there a tutorial on gluing th magnets? I've looked but somehow probably missed it.
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Yes.I believe that the RDO-194 is a direct swap for the 2000's?
Yes.the RDO-198's require modification. -
Thanks @pitdogg2
Is this a good procedure for gluing the magnets?
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184463/a-different-twist-on-the-magnet-gluing-process?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=gluing+magnets+ -
That certainly shows you the proper place to apply the glue. I'd use JB weld two part epoxy. Popcicle or craft sticks are your friend. It is a long tedious, messy job, take your time and you'll be fine.
https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-professional-size -
Thanks
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I believe that the RDO-194
RD0(ZERO)194-1
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thank You
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Grabber70Mach wrote: »I believe that the RDO-194 is a direct swap for the 2000's? If that's correct and the RDO-198's require modification. I believe I'd prefer to use the 194's. I should receive the crossovers I ordered today and will verify the components values. Then compile a list of components to order. Also will look at getting some butyl mat for the MW's and PR's. Since I'm going into the cabinets is there anything else I should consider doing or replacing?
I'd suggest a 7/8"- 1" round dowel front to back between MW and PR. Along with hurricane nuts, you'll get the best midbass out of them. The cabs are particle board and front baffle could use stiffening.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
