Mitsubishi LT-30 Linear Arm Turntable
SCompRacer
Posts: 9,077
A forum member dropped this off a while back. I'm sure Jay will chime in and like the seagulls in Finding Nemo, say "mine!, mine!, mine!" 
"This Mitsubishi LT-30 is a real beauty with original box, packing and dust cover. Figured I'm on a roll fixing, maybe I'll get lucky again.
The tonearm is reported to be misbehaving. But like that Marantz Carl gave me to repair, a car ride seems to have fixed it. But we'll see...it may need a 494 mile car ride.
I assured my Mitsubishi LT-5V that it is not being replaced as it is not mine and wouldn't fit on the shelf anyway, so please don't act up....
"This Mitsubishi LT-30 is a real beauty with original box, packing and dust cover. Figured I'm on a roll fixing, maybe I'll get lucky again.The tonearm is reported to be misbehaving. But like that Marantz Carl gave me to repair, a car ride seems to have fixed it. But we'll see...it may need a 494 mile car ride.
I assured my Mitsubishi LT-5V that it is not being replaced as it is not mine and wouldn't fit on the shelf anyway, so please don't act up....
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
Comments
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1st dibs if it’s for saleThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2800 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
How many flies need to be buzzing a dead horse before you guys stop beating it? -
OK I got you down, but as second dibs.....
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Burnnn....
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Ooh, pretty turntable!
Thanks to Rich for being willing to admit it to his queue. I'm grateful to have a friend so capable and generous to take a look under the hood.
Following this thread with interest.
Jay
SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
Jay, we should invade Richie's space some Saturday, maybe get that A-ron guy in on it as well😉😁
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Jay, we should invade Richie's space some Saturday, maybe get that A-ron guy in on it as well😉😁
Should we invite Rich?
Jay
SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
If he can make it....
😁 -
You just need to get the key fob for turning the turntable air pump on. Otherwise, it's a trip into basement.
Two belts ordered from TurntableNeedles.com. Seems to be popular with some of the Mitsubishi guys. They had both the 3.5 and 5.1 square belts while some places just offered one.
https://www.turntableneedles.com/Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I use to have an LT-5 (I think that was the model) and wish I'd never let it go.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
So Jay @agfrost stopped over to drop off some headshells/cartridges and visit the patient. He sees this and says, "They do exist!"
I've had to replace bulbs and speed LED's in my LT-5V. I replaced the tonearm bulbs with LED's. I used resistors to dim them and keep the current below max so they last. The vertical TT fits nicely on the shelf for my workbench system.
LT-5V
I found one of these cutaway drawings for the LT-5V. Maybe one exists for the LT-30.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
SCompRacer wrote: »I found one of these cutaway drawings for the LT-5V. Maybe one exists for the LT-30.
If you take a reciprocating saw to mine, you can generate your own cutaway drawing! Oh wait...
Was cool to see you have the Mitsu overhang gauge 50. Never thought I'd see one in the flesh plastic!Jay
SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
Belts arrived. Scary time, no collateral damage allowed. It's both fun and stressful. @agfrost
The easiest belt to change.
Underside. The downloaded SM is hard to read. Difficult to see exactly what they speak about removing.
I read all the bulbs were all supposed to illuminate with power on. Third bulb is good, no power to it, even when tonearm advanced to end of LP. Have to crack the manual.
Lots of parts to document removal of.
The plate has to come off. The plastic end of spring was just pressed onto a stud.
More to come...
Post edited by SCompRacer onSalk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
SO that's where the screws are for the tonearm shaft.
Just slide it to one side then snug the set screw.
This is the downloaded SM I have to work with. No biggie, we'll figure it out.
Now we can get the tonearm out. Can't go far with the wires attached. And there is belt # 2 for the tonearm lift.
Two of the problems with this LT-30, the tonearm wouldn't raise high enough to clear the LP and the tonearm height adjustment didn't work properly. To further disassemble tonearm, one must remove the cartridge mute switch....
and desolder the tonearm wires. The white gear has to be removed along with a C clip for the tonearm shaft. It helps to turn the height adjustment to remove the tonearm. The mute switch will get cleaned with DeOxit and flushed with iso.
The tonearm height adjustment was an easy fix. One screw wasn't real tight for the bracket with the gear that raises and lowers the tonearm and it swung away from tonearm. You can tell by the screws at edge of bracket.
More photocells and bulbs, and they work.
The gears had some wear from stripping but once the bracket was moved toward the tonearm post and the screw tightened with a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver, all is well. Tonearm moves up and down like it was designed. Taking a break now.
https://youtu.be/kJmZAo7V0OI?si=gBVgR9U-uRhewPyj
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
You make it look easy! It's a beautiful table! Add me to the dibs list
Carl -
Wow, Rich--You've had a busy/productive Saturday!Jay
SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
First bulb is end, second light is for 30CM or 12" vinyl, third light is for 17CM or 7" records. Next time I light it up I'll stick a 45 on it to check. The size light source at left rear corner shines a light and holes in the matt/platter line up with photocells. I should have known that since my LT-5V uses the same record size system.
The stylus height adjustment didn't work either. The shaft was frozen, almost like someone glued it. It doesn't allow for more than an 1/8" movement but it moves now. A small screw engages the groove in shaft to secure it.
A screw, not shown, tops it off to adjust.
The gear/cam goes on the bottom of that shaft. The other shiny thing is the tone arm cue and it rides on the gear/cam. They use a damping fluid as lubricant, so it lowers slowly. Tape decks sometimes use damping fluid as lube on the left tension arm for slow take-up.
The karma
, I mean dibs list has been updated. 
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
They are my go-to for ALL belts, and they have a decent rewards program. I particular like how they disclose all the belt dimensions in detail.SCompRacer wrote: »Two belts ordered from TurntableNeedles.com. Seems to be popular with some of the Mitsubishi guys. They had both the 3.5 and 5.1 square belts while some places just offered one.
https://www.turntableneedles.com/"This may not matter to you, but it does to me for various reasons, many of them illogical or irrational, but the vinyl hobby is not really logical or rational..." - member on Vinyl Engine
"Sometimes I do what I want to do. The rest of the time, I do what I have to." - Cicero, in Gladiator
Regarding collectibles: "It's not who gets it. It's who gets stuck with it." - Jimmy Fallon -
Jay already had bulbs from Bulb Town, so best practice is to replace them while the tables apart. Especially the two inside the tonearm. Deck takes sixteen 7219 12v along with two 680 5v for the record size bulbs. The control panel takes 11 bulbs. Sadly Bulb Town closed September 12.
Bulbs were tested before and after install with my Fluke PM2811. All harness's unplugged from board so no back feed issues.
I've seen pics where guys tear or cut the glued rubber block off the PCB. After desoldering with the Hakko, I was able to knock them out easy.
This is how I found the wiring in the tonearm. That is not the factory way.
This is how it's supposed to be. The SM pic was pretty bad but someone took a nice pic of how to do it. My cell died but I kept on going. The mute switch was cleaned with DeOxit and flushed with 99% iso. The after-Ohm test was better than the before.
A little glue holds the wires in the photocell bracket that bolts to bottom of tonearm. Previous repair used tape so the photocell bracket wasn't lying flat. You have to insert tonearm wiring into the open square then attach it to bottom of tonearm without pinching any wires. Some wires were flattened from previous repair work, but not broken, insulation intact. I found it easier to route wiring and attach the photocell with arm not installed in deck.
I
Post edited by SCompRacer onSalk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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Jay
SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
This is a snagged pic of an LT-30 lamp holder for the control panel. Jay's was in nicer shape. Way easier to do bulbs on a PCB. Those plastic blocks in the tonearm, stay too long with the solder iron and the connection pins melt the plastic and fall out.
The inside of the base has some protective lining loose. The wiring to tonearm can rub against it as it traverses. A little contact cement, some tape applied in case it oozes out. That second scope I snagged and need to fix provides some weight on a board to keep it flat. Have to do the rest after it dries.
Jay has an Elac 896H 24 Sp mounted on the headshell. We'll have to view the stylus on a USB microscope later. Internet says 1.25-1.75g tracking force and 300pf load capacitance. I get 79pf from tonearm to RCA block and ~155pf for the RCA interconnects for ~234pf.
There was a thread where someone claimed headshell to RCA block was 243pf and the RCA cables were 67pf (310pf total), but my Sencore Z meter didn't agree. They also replaced the mini coax from mute switch to RCA block with Cardas tonearm wire. I would think that would increase chances of RFI noise as it is not shielded. Mitsubishi used a long run of mini coax (~25") to keep from stressing the cables/wiring as the tonearm (and wiring attached to it) moved across the record. I don't even have strippers small enough for those.
I'm a call this a wrap. Jay needs to skip school and pick it up.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Beautiful work and documenting all the work. I always enjoy seeing how much is needed to repair or refurbish old gear. ThanksMain system: Lyngdorf TDAI-2170 w Polk LSiM 703/ Pioneer 42" plasma w Flex Streamer, Sangaen HDT-1tuner
Vinyl: Nothingham Spacedeck->Pioneer PL L1000 linear arm->Soundsmith DL 103R w Contact line stylus->SUT->
Bottlehead Eros
Digital: I7 PC w/ Jriver playing flac -> Sonore Ultrarendu -> Twisted Pair Audio ESS 9028 w/ Mercury IVY
CD: DIY Shigaclone
Vinyl rips: ESI Juli@24/192->Goldwave->i7 PC server
