Toilet Tank Refill Valves - ARGH!!!

jdjohn · July 16

I would like to use some stronger language here, but...

It seems like I'm on a constant merry-go-round with these, having to replace one of the three in my house every six months or so. I mean, they're cheap, but still!

We have somewhat hard water here in Middle TN, and I know that can be a factor, but WTH?!?

Does anyone have a suggestion, or certain brand, to help mitigate this constant issue?

Thanks in advance!

pitdogg2 · July 16

Buy a kohler toilet with one of the aquapistons. I've had two over 15 years and only had to mess with it once. It had a bit of mineral debris that I simple wiped off with a rag.

Internet picture for reference, not my toilet, never paid that much.
The newer design is yellow and a harder compound. The older design was red and a bit softer. They have never curled in my use. Bullet proof!

jdjohn · July 16

Aahh, so THAT'S where your tequila budget has been spent...buying fancy sh!tters

Seriously, good to know that Kohler might be the better choice.

pitdogg2 · July 16

I dealt with curled flappers and leaky flappers got sick of it. I understand your frustration. I heard of these did some research and I haven't looked back. I won't buy any other brand of toilet. I've also quit using wax rings.
My high school buddy who has been a plumber for over 40yrs and owns his own business turned me on to the Kohler and this boot. If you've ever seen those mouse glue traps then you understand how sticky and practically impossible it is to get off. On a brand new toilet you put one of these boots on and you stick this down into the toilet flange you can pull it a couple of times if you need to it's never going to come off the toilet. It's also never going to wear out and leak that you won't find out until after it's rotted your wood subfloor.

I've actually put one on an older toilet that used to wax ring but you really got to clean the China off really well and I think I used something really harsh to remove all wax residue. It may have been acetone. They come in 3" and 4" so you need to know sewer pipe diameter. I've always sprayed a lite coating of WD40 on the outside of the boot so it slides right in easily or you could spray the inside of the pipe/PVC.

jdjohn · July 16

I hear ya, bro. I'm not talking about a leaky flap, though. The situation I've got is the fill valve not cutting off once the tank is full. The 'floater bulb/thingy' rises to the top, which should cut-off the fill valve, but the water continues to flow into the tank, overflowing into the overflow tube, creating a run-on situation. I have to riggle/jiggle, or anything else that works, in order to get the fill valve to cut-off.

pitdogg2 · July 16

Gotcha.
Got one of these?

PSOVLSK · July 16

https://www.amazon.com/Korky-Toilet-Plastic-Rubber-Universal/dp/B08YS8C6WD/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1UDXNI9L7ZLBG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8zuuhPf1Fz8t_zuY0gf2y6yYsUQXCo4k9sgLnStwIGLL-41oa3nrCPO8Uw9zGMacoT_Q-H6ebyhnwFLVTgQaUbDP5TFcq-pNxYIEsSHhPIGTpWxbqUOZuQLjP5ROuJPeLrHOAw37i7I5QR2eS2APkcWe0nMy9zFb3cLN37p4aHZwNmw6D_JfUigUxeJk97ewC-W7xHeBzjJmQJAjdOj9lg.uG2SLc4XdDbH2m7IUncbjPv5-iDrtFVAIbUox-Pe2ow&dib_tag=se&keywords=korky+fill+valve&qid=1752722906&sprefix=kork,aps,183&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

Sorry for the long link. I don’t know how to reduce it.

Anyway, I’ve had better luck with these than anything else I’ve tried.

pitdogg2 · July 16

.

F1nut · July 16

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Gotcha.
Got one of these?

I use those, they last a very long time.

jdjohn · July 16

Yeah...the Fluidmaster is what I'm needing to replace...it didn't last long.
I'm not familiar with Korky. Is that brand demonstrably better...longer lasting?

It's clear that Home Depot (and probably Lowe's) have exclusive distribution rights for brands like Fluidmaster, so choices are limited in these box store environments.

EDIT: There is a lot of limestone in our water table, so our source water has a naturally higher PH (i.e., harder, more alkaline, with more mineral deposits), so it may just be the nature of the beast.

PSOVLSK · July 16

I got the Korky at Home Depot. Are they better/longer lasting than the Fluidmaster? In my limited experience, yes, but it’s a very small sample size…3 units.

VR3 · July 16

So this isn't the same brand as what I put in my house but is very similar and has the same style pittdog2 showed up top internally. I also really like that the tank is integrated

Going on 5 years and they have been absolutely fantastic and super low maintenance because they don't collect dust and grime at the base like a traditional toilet

https://ebay.us/m/JvnIMy

audioluvr · July 16

Make sure you are not using toilet tank sanitizers they rapidly deteriorate the valve seals

Tony M · July 17

Do you have a float ball at the end of a rod or a fluidmaster style filler/float?

I worked for a plumber for 7 years. Fluidmaster replacement fill valves was a MAJOR money-maker for his business. He kept 5+ spares in every truck. They're the BEST!!! He also kept those black washer/seals by the ton. He'd just replace the seal if the toilet if it already had a Fluidmaster fill valve.

You know the FluidMasters are adjustable, right?
You should be able to adjust the float to make it shut the "fill flow" off sooner.

Or is it the needle pin crusting up?

Fluid master valves also have replaceable seals/washers in them. They're very inexpensive when you buy a contractor's pack of 12, I think it is. Or...just buy one.

pitdogg2 · July 17

The fluidmaster valve seal is very easy to work on, that is why I asked if that is what you had. The rubber seal many times just needs cleaned. Are you replacing the whole stem or cleaning the seal? Yes limestone, sand and cast iron debris can be a nuisance but 10 minutes and a flush you should be good.

Willow · July 17

We had ghost flushing from all 3 toilets in the house. they were about 7 yrs old. Replaced with the fluidmaster and seems to have helped. That was bout 2 yrs ago. Now we only get the occasional/to never again ghost flush.

motorstereo · July 17

Knock wood first; never had to replace a refill valve. But I did swap out the entire terlit this year and unknowingly got one that was 3" taller. I had no idea they came in different heights but we quickly found that taller is much better.

Upstatemax · July 17

jdjohn wrote: »

Aahh, so THAT'S where your tequila budget has been spent...buying fancy sh!tters
Seriously, good to know that Kohler might be the better choice.

I replaced all 3 toilets in my home with Kohler toilets, as we remodeled the bathrooms.

I seem to get about 10 years from the flush valves before we start getting "ghost flushing".

I'll spend about $35 to replace the flush valve and filler valve (while I'm in there) and it takes about 1/2 an hour to replace them.

sucks2beme · July 17

I've been using the korky units. I also live in Tennessee. Nothing lasts a long time.
These units are easy to set up.

mhardy6647 · July 17

I'd recommend the nuclear option, FWIW.

We have these pressure-assisted flush valves and they're excellent.
The first time our (adult) daughter, who is pretty unshakable, flushed one of the toilets at this house, she screamed.
The whole experience reminds one of a depth charge.

treitz3 · July 17

Daggum, Doc. How big are your....awe, nevermind.

Most of the time, the toilet floats don't go bad, they just need adjustment. Some are.way more finicky than others. 80 percent of repairs I have done on them is due to the chain from the toilet lever being too long and getting caught up between the seal and the flapper.

Tom

jdjohn · July 17

Thanks for all the input.

To clarify:
- I currently have a Fluidmaster in-place
- The flap does not leak
- The float on the stem moves freely, and will rise all the way to the top
- Even with the float all the way up, and the tank filled, the valve does not shut-off; water continues to flow into the tank, and spills over into the overflow tube

The issue might be the seal that Tony referenced; there may be mineral deposits on or around it.

treitz3 · July 17

Yeah, if that part gets contaminated with mineral buildup or debris and cannot be sealed by adjustment, then replacement is the preferred option. I have read that repair/flushing out that stop is possible by removing the top cap and inspecting the rubber diaphragm, removing any debris. Fluidmaster sells a replacement cap assembly but I have never bothered, as replacing the whole thing only costs 5 bucks more.

Avoid over tightening or stressing the adjustment screws and knobs when you adjust. Don't force anything or it tends to exacerbate the issue.

One alternative, if it is sediment blocking the seal and it's not just an old one (7 to 10 years old), is to add a sediment filter or check your whole home filter to see that it is sealed and up to date. Usually, in my experience only, they will last a very long time (even if you are on a well) with minimal repairs or replacement. In the past 30 years within my own dwellings, I think I have only replaced one.

FYI, the Fluidmaster 400AKR Universal All in One Toilet Repair Kit is usually what the maintenance division installs at work when these toilet shut offs fail, but I have read that the Korky kit is known for its proprietary "Chlorazone II rubber", which provides excellent resistance to chlorine, bacteria, hard water, and well water. FWIW. Both are within 3 to 4 dollars in cost. FWIW.

Tom

VR3 · July 17

Off topic, but I bought a few of those magnet things that go in the tank and if you have excess iron in your water... It truly does work. No more yellow rings in the bowl

Tony M · July 17

Sounds like that rubber washer seat thingy needs replacing.

Buy one, pop that blue or black cap off, replace the seal, then snap the cap back on.

Hope that does it.

2.00 repair.

pitdogg2 · July 17

To repair or replace
1 turn water off
2 pop off blue,red or black cap
3 pop off the top arm off adjustment screw
4 turn top arm a 1/4 turn it should come right off.
5 grab a coffee cup or some small glass drinking cup something, slowly turn water supply on to run water through the cup is going to force it back down into your tank. That should flush out any debris that's loosely setting in there. You may be able to reuse the same rubber part. They are cheap if you want to keep some on hand, but it's not unusual to get debris under those. Usually takes about 10 minutes and you're done.
I've done it hundreds of times over the years. If you buy the rubber part it will have instructions.

jdjohn · July 17

Yeah, it's probably debris causing the problem. I've done that procedure before, so I guess time to do it again. I just wish there was a better mousetrap for this, if you get my drift.

pitdogg2 · July 17

Whole house incoming water filter may be an option to slow it down.

Willow · July 18

jdjohn wrote: »

Yeah, it's probably debris causing the problem. I've done that procedure before, so I guess time to do it again. I just wish there was a better mousetrap for this, if you get my drift.

Use a bucket and stop using the toilet. Problem solved.
These types of issues are so annoying. Hope you fix it soon and lasts a long time

Upstatemax · July 18

Willow wrote: »

jdjohn wrote: »

Yeah, it's probably debris causing the problem. I've done that procedure before, so I guess time to do it again. I just wish there was a better mousetrap for this, if you get my drift.

Use a bucket and stop using the toilet. Problem solved.
These types of issues are so annoying. Hope you fix it soon and lasts a long time

At my cabin, I upgraded from the outhouse, to one of these:

It's honestly pretty freaking awesome!

https://tinyhomeequipment.com/products/laveo-dry-flush-toilet?currency=USD&variant=41709070418052&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=c3634f908088&tw_source=google&tw_adid=638705241765&tw_campaign=19108118550&tw_kwdid=pla-2288237887881&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19108118550&gbraid=0AAAAAo8CK52_tY1v-akuAeKKzswGJsbfQ&gclid=CjwKCAjw4efDBhATEiwAaDBpbs3-bw7QX75s1Es6eiTc_dXyF_j2iqquZaKsjGon5yYnMydZupkkZxoCOPUQAvD_BwE

F1nut · July 18

Does it have p o o p powder too?

Toilet Tank Refill Valves - ARGH!!!

Comments