How do I repair my Monitor 70 Series II's - no high end?

As the title suggests I am getting nothing out of the tweeters. I took the biamp clips off and connected to the upper connectors and get nothing.

I did some googling and then popped out the tweeters. I read that if I check continuity on the wires coming out I should get something. I got nothing. Then I tried resistance on the tweeter terminals and again got nothing. So if I am reading this right then the tweeter is bad, and so is the wiring inside the speaker?

Answers

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    Test the tweeter continuity at the tabs on the tweeter. If good, then the problem is likely on the crossover and from what you have stated I believe it is on the crossover. Perhaps you've cooked a resistor, which should be easy to spot.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

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    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Test the tweeter continuity at the tabs on the tweeter. If good, then the problem is likely on the crossover and from what you have stated I believe it is on the crossover. Perhaps you've cooked a resistor, which should be easy to spot.

    Thanks for helping out.

    So the tweeter is not showing anything when I test continuity between the tabs. So bad tweeter? But does the failed continuity on the wires coming out point to something else wrong inside?

    I looked up replacements and it doesn't seem that this part is available any more. I did find a few on Parts Express that seem to fit the bill.
  • I found this post - seems like the same issue? I read through it and that is more work than I think I want to / able to invest.

    I can see replacement crossovers on eBay for $35. Perhaps that is the best option?

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184141/polk-monitor-70-series-1-tweeters-almost-silent?utm_source=community-search&utm_medium=organic-search&utm_term=monitor+70+series+11+wiring
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    F1nut wrote: »
    Test the tweeter continuity at the tabs on the tweeter. If good, then the problem is likely on the crossover and from what you have stated I believe it is on the crossover. Perhaps you've cooked a resistor, which should be easy to spot.

    Thanks for helping out.

    So the tweeter is not showing anything when I test continuity between the tabs. So bad tweeter? But does the failed continuity on the wires coming out point to something else wrong inside?

    I looked up replacements and it doesn't seem that this part is available any more. I did find a few on Parts Express that seem to fit the bill.

    Well, that would indicate the tweeter is bad as well a crossover problem.

    Were you cranking the volume recently?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    edited April 5
    I can see replacement crossovers on eBay for $35. Perhaps that is the best option?

    Post a link for those.

    I found your tweeter, sort of.
    https://reconingspeakers.com/product/original-polk-audio-monitor-70-series-ii-tweeter-rd7095-1/

    Have you considered getting new speakers?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    I can see replacement crossovers on eBay for $35. Perhaps that is the best option?

    Post a link for those.

    I found your tweeter, sort of.
    https://reconingspeakers.com/product/original-polk-audio-monitor-70-series-ii-tweeter-rd7095-1/

    Have you considered getting new speakers?

    I don't recall overdriving them but it has been a while since I had them running. I was running Hafler DH-200's with them and they were fine. The Haflers are out getting restored so I now have them hooked up to Outlaw mono blocks. And when I went to try them I got nothing in the highs.

    Crossover:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176779731886

    It seems like OEM replacements are not available.

    I did find these that would fit and have been mentioned as suitable replacements:

    https://www.parts-express.com/Peerless-XT25SC90-04-1-Dual-Ring-Radiator-Tweeter-264-1014?quantity=1

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/176779731886
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    Those crossovers appear to be for the Monitor 70, not the Series II.

    Remove the crossover in question to inspect for damage. Post a pic if you want.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    Where did you see that ring radiator tweeter recommended for your speakers?

    This is suggested by Midwest.
    https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/?s=Eminence+SD28&post_type=product
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Sorry - I posted the wrong link for the replacement. But it turns out that the tweeter on the correct link is back ordered anyway. So the one from midwest works. It says "Some modification is needed.". What does that refer to?

    Here are some pictures. Looks ok to me but what do I know! Thanks for all of the help.

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    I see nothing obvious there.
    So the one from midwest works. It says "Some modification is needed.". What does that refer to?
    Best to ask Midwest on that one.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    I see nothing obvious there.
    So the one from midwest works. It says "Some modification is needed.". What does that refer to?
    Best to ask Midwest on that one.

    I will try ordering the tweeters. Is there anything I can test on the crossover directly to get any hints as to whether it is working?

    ofexovyrwkw9.jpeg

    The wires along the top are running to the speakers. The 2 on each side are the incoming lines.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    Are the tweeters in both speakers not working?

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    I don't recall overdriving them but it has been a while since I had them running. I was running Hafler DH-200's with them and they were fine. The Haflers are out getting restored so I now have them hooked up to Outlaw mono blocks. And when I went to try them I got nothing in the highs.

    I missed this. So, the issue only started when you hooked them up to the Outlaw amps. Very interesting.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    I don't recall overdriving them but it has been a while since I had them running. I was running Hafler DH-200's with them and they were fine. The Haflers are out getting restored so I now have them hooked up to Outlaw mono blocks. And when I went to try them I got nothing in the highs.

    I missed this. So, the issue only started when you hooked them up to the Outlaw amps. Very interesting.

    Both tweeters are not working.

    The system was down for about a month before I replaced the amps. The first time I hooked them up to the new amps they sounded muddy. So not sure when it happened.

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    I wonder if those tweeters use ferrofluid. If so, it may have dried up, which will cause the output to drop. However, that doesn't explain the lack of continuity.

    At this point changing the tweeters seems to be the best place to start.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    I wonder if those tweeters use ferrofluid. If so, it may have dried up, which will cause the output to drop. However, that doesn't explain the lack of continuity.

    At this point changing the tweeters seems to be the best place to start.

    I have ordered the tweeters. Thanks for the help and I will report back.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    Excellent, we like report backs 👍
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    Excellent, we like report backs 👍

    ok, got the replacement tweeters in. One question, I searched through the forum for advice on the adhesive holding the old tweeters in place. I didn't find anything specific but on the internet it seems to be that a hard dryer and prying is the best approach? I haven't sat down to play with it yet so thought I would ask. Thanks.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,656
    F1nut wrote: »
    Excellent, we like report backs 👍

    ok, got the replacement tweeters in. One question, I searched through the forum for advice on the adhesive holding the old tweeters in place. I didn't find anything specific but on the internet it seems to be that a hard dryer and prying is the best approach? I haven't sat down to play with it yet so thought I would ask. Thanks.

    Sorry, I have no experience with that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Excellent, we like report backs 👍

    ok, got the replacement tweeters in. One question, I searched through the forum for advice on the adhesive holding the old tweeters in place. I didn't find anything specific but on the internet it seems to be that a hard dryer and prying is the best approach? I haven't sat down to play with it yet so thought I would ask. Thanks.

    Sorry, I have no experience with that.

    No worries. It occurred to me that the tweeters are blown so I don't really care about them so I just pushed them out through the front. I hooked up the replacements temporarily and they are working just fine so this appears to have been my issue. Thanks for all of your help.