Polk tweeter retrofit guide (RT7)
Kelso1
Posts: 13
I recently found the need for replacement due to failed adhesive on the original SL6501 drivers. Most of the people on this forum give positive reviews on the Dayton Audio ND-25FN-4 Neo driver. At about $10 each, these seem like a great budget option. I have included a walkthrough of the modification and installation for anyone using these on the RT7 or similar.
The parts/tools that I used ar as follows:
Extreme Power adhesive (quality super glue)
Precision glue tip(s)
Hobby knife
Small flat bladed screwdriver
120 grit sandpaper
Bottle of compound (or whatever you have that has a flat surface that fits inside your faceplate)
The replacement of both units totaled about an hour to complete.
The parts/tools that I used ar as follows:
Extreme Power adhesive (quality super glue)
Precision glue tip(s)
Hobby knife
Small flat bladed screwdriver
120 grit sandpaper
Bottle of compound (or whatever you have that has a flat surface that fits inside your faceplate)
The replacement of both units totaled about an hour to complete.
Post edited by Kelso1 on
Comments
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If your mount plate has seperated like mine did, a small flat blade screwdriver works well. -
A twist on the magnet and the assembly will remove, exposing the diaphragm.
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The diaphragm tears away easily exposing the adhesive. Remove this as best as possible. It will clog the sandpaper if you do not. -
Using a hobby knife, remove as much of the ring as possible. This will make your sanding time considerably less. -
I used a bottle of joint compound that fit well inside of the faceplate. Whatever you use, place it on your sandpaper, trace a circle using the lid as a template, cut it out, and glue it to the lid. Easy and quick! -
After about 5 minutes of twisting and circular motions while holding the faceplate, we have a nice smooth, even surface.
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The removal of the original tweeter exposed this o-ring. You can buy a new one if you'd like, but I decided to reuse it and overlook the small deformation. -
The reason this o-ring is needed is that the diaphrahm surround on the Dayton tweeter will contact the faceplate if a spacer of some sort is not used. It also acts as a seal to prevend unwanted noises.
It is almost a perfect fit on the tweeter. I used the glue with the precision tip to adhere the o-ring to the flanges of the tweeter (stretching where needed) -
Once the adhesive on the o-ring to the tweeter has set, place the assembly on the faceplate, align it, and run a bead of adhesive around the o-ring / faceplate.
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After about 10min. cure time, you're good to go!
I hope this helps anyone considering the task. Good luck!
-Kelso
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Nice work.
For future reference, I believe the SL6501 is interchangeable with the Polk SL5501, of which I have a large quantity.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Here's the SL5501, which is a 6 ohm tweeter. What is the SL6501?
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Nice job!
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From my limited research, 6ohm.
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From my limited research, 6ohm.
Ok, then the info I saw was correct, they are interchangeable.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
