Teac X-1000r R2R Adventures

SofH pinch rollers from Italy for Carl's and Ed's deck in NY now.

Since I had the re-tired pinch rollers for mine, I decided to calibrate my deck. (I didn't want to introduce different wear patterns from different decks on the reconditioned ones).

The new rollers eliminated the small amount of skew I had. That resulted in a nice clean, steady signal on the scope. This lissajous pattern means the R and L channel of this play head are not in phase.



You adjust the head azimuth screw until you get a nice 45 degree line. This is FWD play, then I had do reverse play. To do record heads, you inject a signal and adjust record head until you get the 45 degree line.



Some of the older techs tell me they prefer to use dual channel mode to adjust azimuth. You get more R and L channel information. You can also adjust the scope to position the traces on top of one another.



My X-1000r had a bent dbx PCB mount bracket and stripped screws. (One screw was found rolling around on the PCB at bottom). Used brackets fetch around $30 or more. I used inexpensive rivet nuts (AKA as nut-serts). That is why I built that wood frame to hold the deck off the bench. No pillow to slip out and damage a PCB mounted on rear.



Backing washers were used to make the mounting thicker, less crush is needed.



Calibration is quite a process on this deck compared to that old 4010SU. Tapes have significantly improved. In simple terms, there are smaller and more magnetic particles on the newer tapes which increases the dynamic range. The new tapes need to be recorded at a higher level. I'm using Teac replica tapes (3.75 and 7.5) from ural91 in Germany. That allows me to follow the manual instead of being on my own with a four frequency MRL tape.

Flux density is basically the level of magnetism on the tape. Measured in nWb/m, or Nanoweber per meter (there are higher levels). Back in the day 185 was standard. My calibration tapes were done at a newer standard of 250nWb/m. The issue is this deck wasn't designed for it and some report they may or may not calibrate that high. Mine only made it to 225nWb/m. Using math, you can use a 250 tape to calibrate higher or lower by + or - dB adjustments.



I'm using a signal generator on a shelf above. It goes to a splitter in the Altoids tin for R and L channel input. Output from deck goes to a 2 to 1 switch box that allows me to toggle between R and L output for the dB meter and Fluke meter. RCA splitters at input of box allow for scope to be connected. Just to left is an old D cell Radio Shack mono speaker. It's plugged into the headphone jack so I can hear the voice on tape say what calibration frequency set is next.



The service manual says calibrate output to -5dB or 436mV. While the AC millivolt meter reads dB and voltage and the needle on -5 gets you close, a true RMS meter allows me to dial it in exactly. Flip the toggle switch and adjust the other channel. In this pic the dB meter is connected to something else or it would read -5dB.



I'm biasing for LPR35 tape.



Lots of things to do in proper order. Some calibrations use the calibration tape, others various frequencies at specific mV. There are 51 different steps or checks to perform. More if you have to calibrate the dbx board. I was told just adjust dbx input and output voltage and leave the rest alone unless someone fudged with it.



When you don't have expensive analyzers, you use the dB meter to do frequency response checks and bias adjustments. This calibration tape has a sixteen-frequency sweep (14kHz to 31.5Hz), each one lasting 15 seconds. First one is 400Hz at -10dB. Thats your reference or zero. You watch the meter for each frequency. You write down each reading, flipping the channel switch back and forth. If -7dB is your zero, ideally all frequencies will be close to the same. Teac specs give you +-3dB range. Mine was tighter. There is a 31.5-16k sweep and 31.5-18k multifrequency signal. I need to ask someone about those....

For recording bias, you have to bias to the tape used. In my case, the LPR35. A popular method is to record a 1kHz signal and note dB output. Change to 10kHz signal and note dB output. The goal is to tweak the bias adjustment and get the same output with both frequencies. Then to check, you have to record several frequencies to see if you are within that +-3dB on playback.





They don't make EE tapes anymore and the old ones can degrade. I had one NIB, and it wasn't shedding, so I calibrated the EE. It's the first bias adjustment listed in the service manual, but I was told it was not a cascading bias. In other words, the EE bias on this deck won't affect the LH-II bias.

Mine sounds pretty good. Tested record and playback at all speeds, FWD and REV, dbx enabled and EE tape. There were days I regretted taking these three decks on, but I sure learned a lot. Thanks to Ken for helping me out when my brain couldn't absorb something. There are some techs on other forums that also helped.

Thanks for the kind words! Makes you want to get a deck, right?

Just when I thought I was done with the hard stuff, a problem arose. I was chastised for taking too much apart in a facebook clinic by an old Teac tech near me. "Stop taking things apart and take it to someone qualified to work on it!" My reply and PM got my post removed and I was banned and blocked by him. It was well worth it.

Even though I have plenty of time and ability, "no need to take switches apart and clean, just shoot some DeOxit in them." I had removed and cleaned Carl's REC, Tape Selector and monitor source switches. Removing them is difficult with high probability of collateral damage, so I tried the easy way and just shot some DeOxit in mine and Ed's switches.

I worked all the switches after spraying and they moved freely. A couple days later the tape selector switches are stuck. The others are OK. The three tape selector switches have a flat bar with a flat tension spring on one end. When you make a different tape selection, it pops the previous selection out. I'd have to buy a used main board to get that switch bank.

DeOxit doesn't harm plastic but there were some hard foam "T" shaped tension parts on the actuators of these tape selector switches. They swelled up from the DeOxit and bound the switches. I had to remove, disassemble and dry them. I ended up slicing off a layer of hard foam with razor blade and trim them to fit. I think they are there to slow the actuator when released.









The switches were from same manufacturer. Other switches, like this broken one, had a location for the foam block, but they were not used.

Ken has been involved and continues to lure me in deeper...lol Yeah, I've had some headaches and stress myself.

Are you talking about your Teac A-6100? Nice deck! They later offered a MK II model.

The A series are very robust decks and much less complicated than the X. Some Teac fans stayed with the A series. The A series have AC motors which just need oil once a year or every 2000 hours (per service manual). The X uses DC motors (brushes!). The reel motors use bearings, the capstan bushings.

Common Teac issues were frozen pinch roller linkage due to the grease drying out and of course, capstan belt eventually needs changing. Then there is head wear, with Teac no longer supplying them. Pinch rollers get hard. You have a couple choices if you need new. You send yours in and Terry Witt re-tires them. I have some coming from SofH in Italy for Ed and Carl's deck, with bearings (not bushings). DIY doesn't work well unless you have a way to true them to zero out of round. The replacement slip ons can be a larger diameter as well.

I have an A-6300 which is similar. It had a reverse playback issue that I repaired. The 6100/6300 share the same service manual. I was going to calibrate it but got involved with the three X-1000r's. NOTE, while the reel says EE, it does not have EE tape on it. The 6300 does not have an EE bias switch. (I was attacked in another forum for that....lol)

Thanks for the kind words! I don't mind being educated. I don't have much memory left so I just worry about new things erasing over the older stuff.

I did notice the shaggy ball when heads were out of alignment and the pinch rollers were too hard. Thanks!

I still have some testing to do on the calibrated decks but decided to get started on the transport boxes. These should provide good protection on their ride home, but I would not trust them for shipping. I used double wall Home Depot boxes.

Foam sheets were glued together with Gorilla construction adhesive. If doesn't melt the foam and has low odor. (It's too cold to do in the garage so did it in basement).





A foam cutting kit was sourced from Amazon for $25. Cranking the voltage up allowed cutting through 4" of foam like a hot knife through butter.



I was able to cut the box size down a bit. To get a nice straight bend in the cardboard, I attach a chunk of wood inside with screws and backing boards from the outside.




Not real pretty but functional.



I do have a piece of foam for the top but didn't have it in when I snapped the pic.

Thanks!

Carl gave me a Teac maintenance kit before we went all in with the X-1000r's, so I am returning it to him with the deck. I picked one up on ebay for $40, which is fairly cheap. It needed some work and was mostly complete. Just the tweezers, scissors and pen light were missing.

Some paint splatters to clean off.



Missing a male snap. Found some on Amazon.



Torn pouch.



Bottles taped up, bottle cap cracked.



Started cleaning the tape off.



The splicer is like the Gibson Girl with curved blades to cut the splice area. Razor blades were broken. Blades unobtanium so used a Dremel with cut off wheel to make some from a single edge blade. Ground a hole for mounting as they don't drill well. The mount block for the blades is concave so tightening the nut and bolt curves the flat blades.





I used a solder iron tip to repair the pouch. I got the iron a little too hot as the stitching is noticeable, but it is holding. Many years ago, I got a black pen light from a Jasper Engines & Transmission rep that fit perfectly. The original was silver.