Teac X-1000r R2R Adventures

SCompRacer

Cue the bells and whistles...most Teac guys claim the X1000r was made much better than the X2000r. Black ones are way cool but the black VU meters are harder to see.



I’m getting braver. Teac X-1000r. Near excellent condition, heads have some wear but far from wore out. One weakness of these decks is the capstan motor, EM1446. Teac went to DC motors in the X series. That means brushes and commutators. When the brushes get thin, you may lose brush tension and the brush doesn’t touch the commutator. It also means if your belt gets gooey and the capstan motor freezes, the motor burns out. One of my fav ebay ads read “Teac X1000 purchased in estate sale. We plugged it in and pressed play and smoke came out of vents….still in excellent condition but needs work.”

Pioneer 901/909 used the same motor, but Pioneer added a sensing circuit that protects the motor in a high amperage condition. Teac may have said, we saved a few bucks not adding that circuitry, so you just may have to buy yourself a motor.

The new capstan motor supply was exhausted ~ 2021. Only used are available for big money, ~ $250-$350+. Most being in the ‘like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get’ category. (Although one reputable seller opens them up to show brushes and provides scope pattern of tachometer). He is in the higher price range but less of a gamble.

If you’re handy, and brave, unstable, you can get brushes that are close in size, file the ends flat and conductive epoxy them in. Size is ~ 3mm x 3mm x 4mm.



Did I mention these were small motors?



The old paper clip trick. If you pull armature out without spreading brushes, you will bend/destroy the brushes/holders. Maybe the plastic nubs too. You must remove brush end and armature in one piece.



One brush little thinner than the other. The bottom is thinner, taper wear.



Trying an acetone soak but that is cured epoxy.





Take a look at the reel motor brushes. They are like new. The only reason I can think of for the worn capstan brushes is 1) motor was replaced. 2) Leaving the unit powered on, not playing a tape but the tape tension is holding the R and L tension arms up. With tension arms up, the capstan motor runs, even when tape not playing. Add some slack in tape, tension arms fall, capstan motor does not run.




Oh look, two more to do! Me and two lucky? friends are going be the three Teac amigos.

SCompRacer

Brushes and small non-polar caps ordered for motors.

It's always interesting to see what went on inside used gear that saw service.

Power set to Japan, 100V instead of 117.



Belt replacement requires removing capstan motor bracket. They missed getting the timer switch mounting nubs in the top of capstan motor bracket. The mounting screws above it are not accessible with circuit boards mounted in place on rear of deck.



This resulted in breaking one of the two timer switches.



It's best to remove the entire assembly to properly clean and lube the pinch roller linkage. Easier to clean all the tape path and heads too. The head assembly is mounted on fixed posts so the head height/azimuth adjustments remain unmolested.



You can also remove any goo belt remnants obscured by components left installed. This stuff is like the gift that keeps on giving. Get it on your fingers or step on it and you'll leave a mark on everything you touch or every step you take.



Yeah, I mark everything even if it's obvious the R and L pinch roller arms are not interchangeable. ....



A missing washer. You can tell by the grease mark one was missing. I'll be searching to make sure it isn't inside somewhere.



This is the solenoid actuator linkage at rear between the capstan flywheels. Hard to access that installed. Sharp eyes will notice the R and L capstan flywheels are different, so I take pictures, mark everything. I have not reached the familiarity breeds contempt stage with the X-1000r yet.

SCompRacer

Had an issue with the fast rewind switch, had to wiggle it to work. Removed front panel, seemed easiet with everything else off it.



Common issues I'm told. Simple easily obtainable momentary contact switches. Beats a $75 used panel.




Look what I found. The missing pinch roller linkage washer.

SeleniumFalcon

"..every step you take." Isn't that a Police song? Nice work! A Teac master mechanic!

SCompRacer

Yes, I was channeling some Police there!

You are kind of responsible for this madness.

Another common issue is a spring in the left tape guide roller gets mangled and/or broken. The spring creates a path to ground when a metal sensing foil completes the circuit between the sensing post and roller guide. That triggers reverse play mode, the "r" in X-1000r.



This is what it should look like.



Two of the three decks had mangled springs. I straightened them. They are sold with the roller on ebay for $25 and up, typically with bent spring.

The manual shows the loop around the axle but some argue it rests against it. When you remove the roller retainer, I think the spring snaps off the axle and ends up touching the edge of axle. The nylon washer goes over the spring, then the roller retainer. At 2 o'clock is the sensing post.

What you don't want is the spring getting caught between the retainer and axle. All you have to do to confirm correct assembly is spin the tape guide roller. No spin, fix it.

agfrost

You've been busy, Rich!