Polk Audio RTA 11T passive radiator rattle at full excursion
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so I hook up my miller and kreisel subwoofer to see if it help on the lower notes. I turn my bass knob down a little on my receiver so the sub could take over the lows and it sound so much better. and I can go louder I also think **** down the woofer tight really helped to make sure it sealed well. So sorry if I wasted any of your guy's time. but these speakers sound really good and thank you for the help I just want to make sure they were sounding like there suppose to.
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boston1450 wrote: »This is why I bought spare parts for my RTA15tl speakers years back. eBay & forum can be helpful. Hope you find issue & enjoy them. The 11's are well liked here. Keep in mind they are 30+ year old speakers & probably need crossover upgrades as well. So be easy on em
can you please tell me more about the crossover upgrade?
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I had forum member (WMG) do my crossovers. There should be info archived here (search bar) as all my info is in laptop. I'm on the road..
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Randy/Maine -
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At the levels I listen to I can still talk to someone <snip>
WAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! Not when we come over!
Tom
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
ok thanks
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Can't remember what tweeter they have in them. But you may be able to upgrade the tweeter to rd0194 (if available) & iirc if you do crossover TL you could do rd0198 (if available) . The rd194 is a drop in replacement upgrade. Nice sounding tweeter..... The rd198 is Polks best IMO for the TL drop in upgrade..
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Randy/Maine -
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There is the difference in the crossover. The 11t doesn't say tweeter. I'm assuming sl2000 ? I'm sure someone will be able to walk you thru any questions you may have. I'm by far a good source
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Randy/Maine -
ok thanks for all the info
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@nesman321 I'm having the same issue with one of my monitor 10b. I actually was logging in to ask about this problem when I saw your thread. I don't think your are playing it too loud if only one of them rattles. When using a tone generator at 25hz with medium volume I get the rattling. It comes from the PR not the inside of the box or the drivers. And if it was volume both of them would do it. I was reading the thread and I think I know what the problem is: I tried doing the air leak test that someone described here and noticed one of the PRs, has less resistance to my push and clanks against the spider. I think it might be that the material has lost some rigidity and it just 'gives' too much when pressure is applied. Could you test to see if the same happens with yours?
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Exactly. Measure the clearance to the frame of each one and then also see how many dimes, pennies, nickels, or quarters it takes placed on each one's cone to bottom out the suspension. Shouldn't be difficult to do this. Just don't leave them in the displaced condition for more than a few seconds.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
@Godel I tried on both pairs and at 25hz I get rattling on both when played at medium volume
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@nesman Finally found what the problem was with mine thanks to a suggestion at audiokarma, small section of the spider had come unglued from the metal basket. It wasn´t a problem until enough force was applied so that the parts colided with each other.
Using some super glue I reattached evetrhin and now there´s norattling with 25hz at any volume level. Hope that helps. Another possible problem that someone else mention they had was that some cable had fallen into a position where it was close enough to the radiator so that they would bump against each other. It should be a simple mechanical problem. Hopefully its one of these.
Ps: the thing that gave away the fact that the spider come loose was that when I pressed down on thee cone, the spider would deform and crease a little instead of just elongating uniformly. If you see creases when you press that should indicate that there are loose sections.
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This would be the proper glue to use. Of course it will not dry super quick like super glue but it will last much longer and god forbid if you need to do it again you will not have the super glue nastiness to deal with.
https://www.aleenes.com/original-tacky-glue -
Do NOT use super glue.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Crap 🤦🏽
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Aleenes has a slight bit of give to it whereas super glue or epoxy are rock hard, which puts the stress on the spider material instead of the glue.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Super glue also tends to leave a white residue from the out gassing of cyanoacrylate that reacts with moisture and oils and deposits on surfaces. You can actually use it to highlight finger prints. You probably don't want it inside your speakers.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
