Polk Audio RTA 11T passive radiator rattle at full excursion
nesman321
Posts: 17
i just bought these Polk Audio RTA 11T from facebook market place and when i play them at a louder volume the passive radiator rattling at full excursion. i took the passive radiator out and they look fine but i notice the rattling it coming from the polk audio sw83 passive radiator any ideas what it could be
Answers
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One or both speakers?
Check for seperation between the spider and the foam cone.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
on both of them and il look at them again but i don't think i saw any separation
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If there's no damage to the PR's it could be the speakers have air leaks.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
il look to see but these cabinets look in excellent condition no scratches or anything I doubt there an air leak that caused it and they look really good you can even see the bead of glue inside the cabinet where the joints meet it just sucks cause they sound really good until you go to louder were you can hear the passive radiator hit the back of the spider cage I think
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What exactly is LOUDER VOLUME? What gear are you running?Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
on both of them and il look at them again but i don't think i saw any separation
You may have to extend the cone carefully and evenly with your fingers to see the possible crack in the spider, which would probably be near the center somewhere. It might only open up near full extension. I think it is a lot more common for a midwoofer to be the source of the noise but you say you're sure it is the passive.
You could have a gasket that isn't sealing properly even if the joints of your enclosures are not leaking.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
i was testing it with my Yamaha HTR-5540 and I was playing at a louder volume that was hard to hear someone talking next to me.I might try another receiver but have to wait for everybody to wake up first in my house
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so I tried it with my realistic sta-2600 receiver and it did the same thing. so I pulled the passive radiator out and I push on it to see if there were any damage on the cone or the spider and it look really good to me. while I had the passive radiator out I hold it up against the passive radiator hole with my hand and I notice it make the noise when it bottoms out on the basket so is there suppose to be something like foam to keep it from doing that? I'm going to add pic where I press on it to show the spider but they're not the best pics
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To check for a worn out suspension (too compliant) see how much weight placed in the center of the cones on each one, in order for the cone to contact the basket. I would think there'd be plenty of clearance for normal operation.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Gardenstater wrote: »To check for a worn out suspension (too compliant) see how much weight placed in the center of the cones on each one, in order for the cone to contact the basket. I would think there'd be plenty of clearance for normal operation.
Key words, “Normal Operation”
Key Comment, “I was testing it with my Yamaha HTR-5540 and I was playing at a louder volume that was hard to hear someone talking next to me.”Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
i was testing it with my Yamaha HTR-5540 and I was playing at a louder volume that was hard to hear someone talking next to me.I might try another receiver but have to wait for everybody to wake up first in my house
There was only one Polk speaker that was actually designed to go to 11. @ken brydson has one, but the 11T, despite its model number, isn't it.
What kind of music are you playing? If you're seeing actual full excursion of the passive, you're playing it too loud. Can't imagine what the mids are doing at that point.
For that use case, you might need some Cerwin-Vegas, or something covered with carpet and metal corner protectors.
I am curious, though, what the problem is,and whether the passive is damaged.I disabled signatures. -
I forgot that model has cone type PR's, so there is no Styrofoam.
Air leaks can be from numerous causes, you have to do the air leak test. Press the bottom PR in and while holding it in watch the mid-drivers. They should pop out then slowly recede taking at least 3 seconds to rest. Anything less means you have an air leak.
That said, the sound you are hearing is
more likely the mid-drivers being overdrive by subpar amplification.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
well I just play dire straight so far away of my sacd through my realistic sta 2600 and it was decent volume but it still did it with music that was less bass heavy and il try other things you guys suggest thanks for the help
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This isn't the 1st time this has happened to rta11 or RTA15tl speakers. It's just finding the issue that is causing it. We all like listening to music loud. So don't be offended if some say turn it down or get a pair of Cerwin Vegas
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This is why I bought spare parts for my RTA15tl speakers years back. eBay & forum can be helpful. Hope you find issue & enjoy them. The 11's are well liked here. Keep in mind they are 30+ year old speakers & probably need crossover upgrades as well. So be easy on emPost edited by boston1450 on..
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I forgot that model has cone type PR's, so there is no Styrofoam.
Air leaks can be from numerous causes, you have to do the air leak test. Press the bottom PR in and while holding it in watch the mid-drivers. They should pop out then slowly recede taking at least 3 seconds to rest. Anything less means you have an air leak.
so i did what you said and i press on the passive radiator and as soon as i let go the mid drivers recede on both speakers so i guess there a air leak i don't know -
so i did what you said and i press on the passive radiator and as soon as i let go the mid drivers recede on both speakers so i guess there a air leak i don't know
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so i did what you said and i press on the passive radiator and as soon as i let go the mid drivers recede on both speakers so i guess there a air leak i don't know
You didn't follow my instructions.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
so i did what you said and i press on the passive radiator and as soon as i let go the mid drivers recede on both speakers so i guess there a air leak i don't know
Hold in on passive lightly & count how long woofers stay out... -
ok sorry i misunderstood so when i press and hold on the passive radiator on both speakers the mid woofers pop out a little bit and don't recede in till i let go and hold my hand on the bottom one for 10 second on each
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Ok, you definitely do not have an air leak.
I would pull the mid-drivers to inspect the cone to spider seam. It may look ok to the eye, so you have to get in there and gently press down on the spider going all around looking for any separation.
You should check all the PR's the same way.Post edited by F1nut onPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
In addition to what I said previously about checking the compliance of each passive, check to see if the one that is making the noise has had a tuning weight fall off of it. It would be in the bottom of the speaker presumably.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
I've seen the edge of spider separate from the basket and had to re-glue them.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
ok so I look at the spider cage and the two woofers look very good the other two I think they look fine but I will include the first five pics of the one that has a small brown spot on the cage I don't think it is a hole and il include the other woofer pics but they go up and down fine and I don't see a rip and I notice is that the right speaker passive radiator vibrate at the same volume when the left one doesn't. unless I go louder I wonder if a thin piece of foam would help to cushion the passive radiator from bottoming out it happened at lower notes too cause I notice only once or twice when I played my sacd copy of dark side of the moon it happened on the songs breath and on the run. at louder volume so maybe I need to hook up my sub to help balance it out. but I also played a copy of my nas god's son album and at the same volume as yesterday it didn't do it unless I turn it up but i still don't get why the right one does it when the left doesn't at the same volume but sound way better than yesterday and i made sure to screw them down good when i put the woofer back and had to fix the wiring cause it was all tangle up inside so il try the other thing you guys recommend and thank for helping me to make sure these speakers is up to spec
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Great photo examples.
If I missed this, apologies:
Did you swap passives between cabinets?
Just swap 'em and see if the problem moves to the other side, or stays.The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage -
Paragraphs and punctuation, please!Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
May I ask where your bass and treble setting are?
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I don't know why it post it twice. anyways there at the default settings, the bass and treble settings and I'm going to swap the passive to see if that makes it happen on the left one first then the right one to see if makes a change.
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Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Seems to me you are just playing them to loud.
At the levels I listen to I can still talk to someone so if you can't I would say you are listening very, very loud- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
