SDA SRS2 '86 blade-blade. Budget upgrade. Looking for an advice.
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alexanikin
Posts: 105
Hi guys.
I was happy with my SDA 2b in excellent condition for two years. I changed twitters for RD0194 early on and prepaid the crossovers upgrade for this April. But as it happens, I stumbled across SDA SRS2 for a very good price in only 140mls drive.
So here we are. SRS2 will be in my main setup as stereo speakers for music and front for HT. 2b's will be sold later this year after the SRS2 rebuild is finished.
I had no experience disassembling vintage Polks and decided to be careful, so I carefully removed all the speakers to disconnect all the wires.
Turns out, they're not 8x MW6509, but 6x MW6509 original and 2x MW6510 from SRS2 1989.
Few questions:
1. What would you suggest doing with mids: (1) keep those I have and use MW6510 as SDA speakers on two sides matching place or (2) find a way to swap for MW6509 or (3) smth else?
2. Is there a reason to change binding posts other than esthetics?
3. I read in the past about nuts for screws. Is it critical to add those? Can you recommend a place to buy it?
4. What else could be useful to do while boxes are empty?
5. Are there any important things to remember while assembling everything back?
Few photos:
I was happy with my SDA 2b in excellent condition for two years. I changed twitters for RD0194 early on and prepaid the crossovers upgrade for this April. But as it happens, I stumbled across SDA SRS2 for a very good price in only 140mls drive.
So here we are. SRS2 will be in my main setup as stereo speakers for music and front for HT. 2b's will be sold later this year after the SRS2 rebuild is finished.
I had no experience disassembling vintage Polks and decided to be careful, so I carefully removed all the speakers to disconnect all the wires.
Turns out, they're not 8x MW6509, but 6x MW6509 original and 2x MW6510 from SRS2 1989.
Few questions:
1. What would you suggest doing with mids: (1) keep those I have and use MW6510 as SDA speakers on two sides matching place or (2) find a way to swap for MW6509 or (3) smth else?
2. Is there a reason to change binding posts other than esthetics?
3. I read in the past about nuts for screws. Is it critical to add those? Can you recommend a place to buy it?
4. What else could be useful to do while boxes are empty?
5. Are there any important things to remember while assembling everything back?
Few photos:
Comments
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Upgrade the 2B's and sell the SRS2Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Upgrade the 2B's and sell the SRS2
Thank you for the advice. I tested those back to back: in my room with my equipment, and for my ears, I like SRS2 better. -
With the 2B you can upgrade them to use the RD0198-1, which is a much better tweeter than the RD0194-1 that the SRS2 has to use. The 2B, with the AI-1 or Dreadnought can be driven with non-common ground amplification, which cannot be done with the blade/blade SRS2. The 2B has a better balanced presentation verses the rather thick sound of the SRS2.
So, there ya go...Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I'll have to confirm--it's been years since I played with this stuff--that I have extra 6509s. If I can find 'em, I would trade for your 6510s. I have a pair of SRS2 pin/blade speakers that have been ignored for about six or seven years now.
The SRS2 blade/blade crossovers are identical to the SDA 1B crossovers except for the value of one resistor in each cabinet. You'd do well to check-out "inspiredsports" thread from when he updated/rebuilt his SRS2 crossovers. The first half of that thread is polluted with bad information. Things clear up in the second half.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/74946/sda-srs-2-crossover-parts-list/p1 -
Clear as mud.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
"1. What would you suggest doing with mids: (1) keep those I have and use MW6510 as SDA speakers on two sides matching place or (2) find a way to swap for MW6509 or (3) smth else?"
Definitely (2). Vastly different T/S Parameters between 6509, 6510, and 6511. 3rd Gen blade-blade was 4x 6509 and 4th Gen pin-blade was 2x 6511(stereo) plus 2x 6510 (dimensional) and MUST have had a different crossover.
1 Driver Type Q BL Compliance DC Resistance Fs
3 MW 6501 1.470 5.96 N 3.250 E - 3N/M 7.750 Ohms 31 Hertz
4 MW 6502 1.970 5.16 N 1.470 E - 3N/M 3.520 Ohms 44 Hertz
5 MW 6503 1.820 5.24 N 3.550 E - 3N/M 6.540 Ohms 29 Hertz
6 MW 6509 2.100 4.57 N 3.540 E - 3N/M 8.970 Ohms 30 Hertz
7 MW 6510 1.390 6.32 N 3.410 E - 3N/M 6.570 Ohms 31 Hertz
8 MW 6511 1.405 4.34 N 3.496 E - 3N/M 3.130 Ohms 29 Hertz
9 MW 6512 1.905 4.99 N 1.588 E - 3N/M 3.466 Ohms 40 HertzGeorge / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Has anyone else actually tested their 6511's to be @ 3.1 ohms?
I've tested all to be @3.5 ohms.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
I'll have to confirm--it's been years since I played with this stuff--that I have extra 6509s. If I can find 'em, I would trade for your 6510s. I have a pair of SRS2 pin/blade speakers that have been ignored for about six or seven years now.
I would be happy to swap. Let me know if find them please.
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The new + and - test lead pair, and the original test lead pair, of my Fluke 88 multimeter both have .2 ohms resistance.Has anyone else actually tested their 6511's to be @ 3.1 ohms?
I've tested all to be @3.5 ohms.
If yours are the same, a reading of 3.5 ohms minus .2 ohms in the test leads would be 3.3 ohms for the drivers. Doesn't seem so far "off" considering the mass-market nature of the drivers.
(Unless you put the ends of the leads together, and zero the meter before testing the driver's coil.)
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Test leads were taken into account and lowest reading was 3.4 ohms.
I've got another burnt coil, original 6500 that I'm going to install a 3.5 ohm coil in. It's compliance is the same already as suspensions are identical, and BL should be the same as 6511 when done.
MW 6510 1.390 6.32 N 3.410 E - 3N/M 6.570 Ohms 31 Hertz
MW 6511 1.405 4.34 N 3.496 E - 3N/M 3.130 Ohms 29 HertzDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists. -
Hey guys, is there any interest in following the upgrade process of one more pair?
I mean, so many threads show essentially the same process for different models. I have my joyful moments and am happy to share my thoughts here. -
I'm interested!George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Crown D150 amp
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform -
Carry on my wayward son.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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I'll have to confirm--it's been years since I played with this stuff--that I have extra 6509s. If I can find 'em, I would trade for your 6510s. I have a pair of SRS2 pin/blade speakers that have been ignored for about six or seven years now.
@Schurkey thank you for the exchange and for all your advice.
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I've been sick for well over a week. I've received the '6510s, but haven't even opened the box yet. Glad you got the '6509s in good condition.
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I've been sick for well over a week. I've received the '6510s, but haven't even opened the box yet. Glad you got the '6509s in good condition.
Can't like your message. Get better! -
After crossovers have been sent to a guy for the upgrade, I've started reading this forum and a little bit of the internet to come up with a list of what I want to do with these speakers and stay at a moderate budget.
The first thing was to find information about a successful TL upgrade for SRS2 b/b, but it turned out the guy upgrading my crossovers had this experience before.
The grocery list:
1. RD0198 x4 from midwestspeaker
2. Hurricane nuts for #8-32 screws (link)
3. Internal Threads for #8-32 screws, 10mm length (link)
4. For mids and PRs: button head socket cap screws for 3/32" hex key, black, 1" long (list)
5. For tweeters: flat head socket cap screws for 3/32" hex key, black, 1" long (list)
6. For tweeter magnets: flat head socket cap screws for 3/32" hex key, black, 1/4" long (list)
7. Washers #8 (link)
8. Armacell TAP18230 foam for diy gaskets (link)
9. Dynamat Xtreme (link)
10. Loctite Epoxy x2 (link) -
Some introduction and disassembling process.
I picked up these speakers in Fresno from a cool guy Ted, who wanted a project, but never had time to start. The first set of speakers in my life, which I can't move on my own. I mean, I can, but it is not fun at all
I decided to try them for a few days before disassembling. To taste what to expect later.
The speakers had several problems:
1. On the right speaker, one tweeter was a bit noisy
2. On the left one the top wood piece was wobbly
3. And mids had a different sound
But still, I liked these even better than my existing 2B, while I enjoy a lot.
During disassembling, it became obvious that nobody ever opened the right speaker, but the left one had been visited a few times. The PR bolt look pretty strange to me; silver are from the left.
Naturally, hurricane nuts were the first thing to do. The pretty easy procedure takes only diligence and a bit of patience.
There was one surprise: a slat beside two holes for the lower tweeter. For these decided to use internal threads instead of hurricane nuts.
Here is the result:
Playing with drivers is next. -
7/64" drill bit was used for hurricane nuts
1/4" drill bit was used for internal threads
And for all the screws, I had to buy 3/32 bit, cuz I had none capable of tightening over 50 nuts into the MDF box.
Does anybody know if these feet are genuine?
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YesPolitical Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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Spikes with floor discs.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Started with epoxy for the magnets. I thought It would be much more complicated, but it was easy and no mess. Approx 3/4 of epoxy tube and an hour per each side of the magnet for all eight drivers.
Dynamat and new gaskets took about 6-7 hours in total for 8 mids and 2 PR. The gaskets on all drivers were in a different condition, so I decided to change them altogether. Don't have photos of the process. I simply cut templates for one mid and pr, and then multiplied accordingly.
Now it tweeters' turn.
These gaskets were okay, so we kept them. Thanks to one thread here, which I forgot to bookmark, I noticed that rd0198 is for a different screw head (flat) and possibly needs washers. Spent some time comparing sl2000 and rd0194 frames and even thinking about two washers per hole, but I passed.
Three drops of a noname super glue + M8 washer per hole.
Honestly, the original Philips screws bugged once I tried new screws matching those for mids, but flat head instead of buttons. I just don't like this mismatch. The screws are #8x32 1/4" and I found the matching set.
Expecting crossovers to arrive back home in the next 10 days.
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Nice looking job on the Dynamat.
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alexanikin wrote: »
I decided to try them for a few days before disassembling. To taste what to expect later.
Few words about my current main setup. For the last couple of years, I have tried different digital and analog music sources and different movie reproduction approaches. The current system is unified for both while considering the convenience for other people living with me who don't want (or can't) to learn how to use a complicated set of electronics. So analog sources and hi-res stuff have been stripped off for good.
Now AppleTV remote is the only one used to control everything.
1. Sources: NAS + Plex for movies and music + Apple Music
2. Streamer: Apple TV and AirPlay2 over it. Limited to 48/24, but it is just enough for me
3. Receiver: Yamaha TSR-700
4. Amplifier for fronts: Parasound Halo A23
5. Front speakers: Polk SDA 2b -> SRS2TL
6. Center speaker: Polk Signature S35
7. Surround Speakers: Polk Signature S15
8. Interconnects: Audioquest Diamondback
9. Speaker cables: handmade 9AWG based on a copy of Kimber Kable 12TC from Aliexpress
I love this setup.
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Are you going to foam-frame the drivers?Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Yep, some nice gains to be had there.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Just do the mids. The best foam is open-cell at least 3/16" thick. It's even easier (for me) to use bare foam and a thin layer of Power-Grab. Allows for easy placement and longer adjustment time.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
