SDA SRS2 '86 blade-blade. Budget upgrade. Looking for an advice.

Options
2

Comments

  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    xschop wrote: »
    Just do the mids. The best foam is open-cell at least 3/16" thick. It's even easier (for me) to use bare foam and a thin layer of Power-Grab. Allows for easy placement and longer adjustment time.

    I would go with an adhesive layer, but we'll see what I'll find.

    Which one is better: low or high-density open-cell foam?
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,281
    edited May 2023
    Options
    High density would be best. I've only done it with Armacell 1/8", which is actually closed cell. Worked well, but doesn't mean that it is the ultimate. Open Cell is favored for sound absorption which is the desired goal here. Closed Cell may be better for vibration and sound transmission. For the Armacell, the best measurement I could do revealed 4.7 lb/cu. ft. density.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    I see. Thank you for the advice. So looks like this is the one I'm looking for, but 1" wide.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,281
    Options
    alexanikin wrote: »
    I see. Thank you for the advice. So looks like this is the one I'm looking for, but 1" wide.

    I don't have any personal experience with that product, only the Armacell TAP18230, which is marketed for thermal insulation of pipes. In the US, the lowest price for it I have found is at Home Depot. I would "think" that for closed cell we want low density but for open cell (which I have not tried yet) a more high density.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    Yeah, I have a 3/4 of a roll of the same Armacell. Will look for open cell
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,086
    Options
    alexanikin wrote: »
    tbh, I didn't consider doing this. Will take a look starting here.

    @xschop, do you know, if the same foam used for gaskets is good for the insides of the drivers? Is it only for mids or for PRs too?

    Do NOT put that foam crap inside your driver baskets.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,837
    Options
    ^^^ Mod Envy ^^^
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,086
    Options
    xschop wrote: »
    blah blah blah

    ^^^Audio knowledge envy^^^
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • plastic_avatar
    Options
    Basket foam = There are other ways to accomplish this mod (xschop's and Gardenstater's).

    The Armacel was difficult for me. It's super sticky and I don't have steady hands.

    The mod is reversible, but I don't think anyone who tried it thought it was a mistake =)

    And tell us more of the speaker wire diy. I'm impressed by the look of them.

    Good work on everything!
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * custom 5B on a system for my Dad * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,086
    Options
    I don't think anyone who tried it thought it was a mistake

    You are mistaken.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,837
    edited May 2023
    Options
    Secret Closet Modder? keep it on the DL.
    Again, someone here already has a full-blown modded set of SRS-2's and reported back great results with the foam frames...and phase-plugs. ;)
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    F1nut wrote: »
    Do NOT put that foam crap inside your driver baskets.

    Yeah, I will not go this route for sure.

    Had to go back to my car audio past when I built a full analog music system based on Eton components. And I recall some of my memories on how we’ve been fighting different types of resonance from car’s body parts. Never touched the insides of any drivers.

    Honestly, this foam upgrade feels a bit unnecessary and too much for my project.


  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    I don't have steady hands.

    Same here :( That is why I decided not to do crossovers myself and don't want to poke my cucumber fingers into mid drivers.
    And tell us more of the speaker wire diy. I'm impressed by the look of them.

    Thank you, man. I need to gather photos and my scattered notes on speaker cables cuz I made quite a few in the last couple of years. But I actually use only two pairs. The second one is my office: 11AWG based on a copy of Kimber Kable 8TC from Aliexpress.
    OD of these is over 5/8".
    kfsopl42dk66.jpg

    Comparing to a few other speaker cables, these make a difference in my setup, which is relatively simple:

    1. Streamer: Wiim Mini and AirPlay2, connected over Toslink to the dac
    2. DAC: Schiit Modi 3E
    3. Interconnects: Audioquest Evergreen
    4. Amplifier: Maverick Audio TubeMagic A1
    5. Speakers: Polk Audio S15

    ay4oo4mg366f.jpg
    kngpk9oo6dyl.jpg
    h03p3pxhqmza.jpg


  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    edited May 2023
    Options
    A story about my speaker cables.
    I respect the opinion of those who think that speaker cables are snake oil, but I do not engage in conversations on the matter.
    It is here for those who want to have fun like I had. The sound has been different for my ears than the other dozen cables I have tried.

    Main system: 12TC 8.2ft 9awg - $120 for all materials
    o09joduie18j.jpg

    Office system: 8TC 7.5ft 11awg - $90 for all materials
    0b9z178eh6j0.jpg

    Both cables follow the same approach, except for a different number of strands in the bare wire.
    I made 8TC in a few days, so they look pretty. But life happened and it took me over a year to finish 12TC and I skipped noiseless sleeving for the body of the cable.

    A while ago, I started reading about cables just for fun and found a lot of good words about Kimber, most probably first from Hans Beekhuyzen. I love how they look, but $945 for the pair is out of my price range.
    48ixzkh1gslb.png

    At some point, youtube pushed this video to my feed. Fascinating video, but my first thought was: "I can do better. It will be fun". Turned out, a copy of Kimber is available on Aliexpress and you can buy the bare cable for a reasonable price (much cheaper than Danny offers).

    Researching and looking for the right parameters for all the parts took me about two-three months actually. Only tubes took me to buy over ten variants in different materials and sizes. I can't not appreciate Amazon's return feature.

    The list of things that I picked as must-haves:
    1. Cable in bulk: 12TC and 8TC
    2. Internal insulation. PTFE Teflon Tube used for 3D printer: 3mm x 5mm for 8TC and 4mm x 6mm for 12TC
    3. The best touch-and-feel black noiseless sleeving: Techflex Flexo Noise Reduction
    4. No-soldering banana plugs that fit 9AWG, resulting in an inner diameter of over 4mm. These are 5mm: aliexpress and amazon.

    There are more, less important parts. Happy to share the entire list if somebody is interested. Let me know.

    The process. Danny in that video uses cotton rope, which IMO looks ugly and is not ideal for the job. Some form of Teflon tube will be better, but it has to work well with a speaker cable. Luckily, PTFE tubes are widely used in 3D printers. They are not expensive, pretty flexible and have a low coefficient of friction.

    rntos47y00cm.jpg
    0umxmgtur94c.jpg
    apsfgosqrfft.jpg
    lij406u28i29.jpg
    np6q8daidl21.jpg

    A few more photos of finished cables.
    oa9cuwqjt3p8.jpg
    2s2x6ry5iofb.jpg
    l7damdfmaqba.jpg
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    Utilizing the same approach, but inside-out, I made interconnect, too, for my SDA 2b. $40 for 10ft.

    This 1-conductor OFC wire fits perfectly into 4mm x 6mm PFTE tube and these Deadbolt RCA Plugs are the perfect fit for the SDA pin connector, just cut off the skirt (or how to call it). Finished with noiseless sleeving in 1/4".

    Can't find photos :((
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,326
    Options
    I think the reason Danny uses cotton is because of it's dielectric constant.
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    Black Hole 5 - (18"x 24"). Way too big of a piece, but it is the only one I could find.

    I made 8 pcs 3.5"x4.5" for an overall simplified cutting. 18"x16" is left. Happy to share with somebody.

    tqlk8ziav5du.jpg
    qgt9m9e18ym2.jpg
    0tpcs5j6oet1.jpg
    am92eekfoug9.jpg
    hsqje73nnwis.jpg
  • bcwsrt
    bcwsrt Posts: 1,757
    Options
    alexanikin wrote: »


    I made 8 pcs 3.5"x4.5" for an overall simplified cutting. 18"x16" is left. Happy to share with somebody.


    Sent you a PM.
    Brian

    One-owner Polk Audio RTA 15TL speakers refreshed w/ Sonicap, Vishay/Mills and Cardas components by "pitdogg2," "xschop" billet tweeter plates and BH5 | Stereo REL Acoustics T/5x subwoofers w/ Bassline Blue cables | Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum III integrated tube amp | Technics SL-1210G turntable w/ Ortofon 2M Black LVB 250 MM cart | Sony CDP-508ESD CD player (as a transport) | LampizatOr Baltic 4 tube DAC | Nordost & DH Labs cables/interconnects | APC H15 Power Conditioner | GIK Acoustics room treatments | Degritter RCM
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    This time steel spikes and corresponding threaded insert nuts.

    bhwhwsukoiv2.jpg


    My first idea was simply to find spikes to swap with the original feet, I couldn't figure out the thread pattern, and internetting didn't help. And it is for good, cuz I like how the original slide on the floor in the house.

    So now there are holes 1" apart for two sets of feet so that the spikes can be easily installed onsite or removed.

    o30tgbyxfxfy.jpg
    f1yvayvwtazm.jpg

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,086
    Options
    All you had to do is ask. The thread is 1/4-20.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    F1nut wrote: »
    All you had to do is ask. The thread is 1/4-20.

    Yeah, I understand. But thinking about the thread patterns made me question how I will use the speakers on spikes, for example, moving back and forth if needed. And instead of asking, I decided to have two pairs for convenience.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,928
    edited May 2023
    Options
    alexanikin wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    All you had to do is ask. The thread is 1/4-20.

    Yeah, I understand. But thinking about the thread patterns made me question how I will use the speakers on spikes, for example, moving back and forth if needed. And instead of asking, I decided to have two pairs for convenience.

    Most of us just put the glides back in, it's very little inconvenience.
    Or just take spikes out rearrange and put back it, once again very little inconvenience.
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Most of us just put the glides back in, it's very little inconvenience.
    Or just take spikes out rearrange and put back it, once again very little inconvenience.

    Yeah, the general approach is pretty obvious. Don't see any downsides with the one I picked, even visually. By the end end of this week, crossovers should arrive, so this will be a moment take on the final result including how my spikes look.
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    Nothing fancy here. Got crossovers back from Loudspeaker Chef. Standard upgrade of internals + rd0198 support + new binding posts. I assembled everything right away, but close to midnight, so no photos yet.

    3og8o26c0qag.jpg

    vne8i7ufl1re.jpg
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    7i17g6mczp4h.jpeg
    qhq7rfhdurqe.jpeg

    After playing my favorite music for 5-6 hours in the last couple of days, I love the result. Sounds amazing, looks great, match with other components in the setup.

    For now it’s finished.
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    edited January 22
    Options
    The story of these SDS2 is finished for me. They are on a few marketplaces.

    The new story is about SRS 2.3TL '90, which I picked up from the first owner a couple of weeks ago. I mean, he passed away, and his wife sold the speakers to me. They are in pristine condition except for a sidewall that is already put in place with Loctite Power Grab Ultimate, which has been advised many times on this forum. Only interconnect was absent, but I had one that I'd made for my old SDA 2b.

    Even before rebuilding, I like them much better than SRS2: both visually and sonically.
    c6wimqy04jgi.jpg

    Also, I got lucky and acquired for pretty cheap Parasound HCA-2205AT, specs in everything are 2x better than the Parasound A23 which is sold already.
    jj85osqrocic.jpg

    Right now speakers are disassembled and waiting for some work. I plan to do pretty much the same set of things as for SRS2.

    Don't want to create a separate thread and will keep using this one.


  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    HCA-2205AT is great, cuz I can bi-amp SRS 2.3TL. That's why another pair of the same 12TC cables is in the process. I don't care if the sound is better with these cables or the same, I just like the process of making them. This time will be a cleaner execution for new one and a clean-up for the old ones.
    00bql84zixi3.jpg
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,837
    Options
    Looks like an SL3K in the lower slots?
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    alexanikin wrote: »

    1. Streamer: Wiim Mini and AirPlay2, connected over Toslink to the dac
    2. DAC: Schiit Modi 3E
    3. Interconnects: Audioquest Evergreen
    4. Amplifier: Maverick Audio TubeMagic A1
    5. Speakers: Polk Audio S15

    This set is pretty much entirely gone. I rescued and rebuilt a set of RTA12, which became my desktop speakers. DAC and amp are Parasound Z-series, Zdac v2 and Zamp v3. I didn't know before about these units, cuz I consider them desktop too, and they sound just awesome.

    0uvqmyfrei2k.jpg
  • alexanikin
    alexanikin Posts: 105
    Options
    xschop wrote: »
    Looks like an SL3K in the lower slots?

    You right. I swapped RD0198 from SRS2 and ordered two more, which arrived today.