Tube tester?

Joey_V · March 2023

Is this a good tube tester?
Do you guys have recommendations?

I need a good tester for 6h30, 6550 for my audio research

Can a tube tester tell if they are about to blow for example?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334751066249?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=Ad5pg_F-AaTn8tTZiQR-BZjXPxcoSMhwL76pGlQtcCMjeS8eNIAIfUIHqqo

F1nut · March 2023

The Hickok 539 or 750/752 series are some of the best. A tube can go bad at any moment, just the way it is.

Joey_V · March 2023

F1nut wrote: »

The Hickok 539 or 750/752 series are some of the best. A tube can go bad at any moment, just the way it is.

Are tube testers rather simple to use?

F1nut · March 2023

Joey_V wrote: »

F1nut wrote: »

The Hickok 539 or 750/752 series are some of the best. A tube can go bad at any moment, just the way it is.

Are tube testers rather simple to use?

Like most stuff, easy for some and not for others. You shouldn't have a problem.

Do none of your audio buds have one?

pitdogg2 · March 2023

Reach out to Paul Hart and ask him, tell him what tubes you want to test.
I had him work on my Hickok 600a, the guy knows he's stuff. He also sells testers that he has went through and brought up to snuff and fixed all that lost spec's.
I can give you an email and phone number to reach out.

Many old testers no matter how well they've been taken care of 50 to 70 years later they need work it's just the way it is.

skrol · March 2023

I can't talk my dad out of his Hickok 600a. He still uses it occasionally to service his test equipment and ham radio.

sucks2beme · March 2023

Regardless of how well it's made, time isn't
Kind. A refresh and calibration are in order
to be accurate. But if you just use it once in
A while to see relative tube health, it would
Be just fine. I have a Hickok stashed away.
Those are well regarded as also well
documented. Repair and calibration onto
are all over the web.

Clipdat · March 2023

Rare long plate getter
I might hear microphonics
Last Hickok calibration?

stereo55 · June 2023

Id recommend a B&K Precision 667 (solid state unit) . Nicely compact/small (compared to many) , super easy to use and accurate to the best of my testing and comparison to others such as the Hickok , etc over the last 10/20 yrs . ~ I do have other more pro/complete testers , but the 667 is my favorite for traveling to clients or sales where tubes need to checked . ~ I have two , one for travel and the second for home use when I dont want to breakout the big guns . ~ Both units still going strong and one has not needed calibration , the second needed mild calibration when first purchased , but nothing since . ~ Very nice units for the casual tester (or semi serious) , imo .

Toolfan66 · April 2

F1nut wrote: »

The Hickok 539 or 750/752 series are some of the best. A tube can go bad at any moment, just the way it is.

Old thread I know, but I have been on the lookout for a tube tester for some time, but just scares me to put out the coin, and not really knowing what I am buying. Don’t want a headache purchase..

I have passed up many over the last few years..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267623937728?_skw=hickok+tester+752&epid=1203549523&itmmeta=01KN84V8RYMH6XCB4EPXVZZ54E&hash=item3e4fa136c0:g:8d4AAeSwUxBpyc78&itmprp=enc:AQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xAIznRGd91lZGF40RAU3zur3PjulpJ7b/nfhv8yZ4NEOONVvsQlg3nIYpnisdjdAesPYD0dPiOS8ukTTjT4qnV7SZm7U+mtJeOAb32NMZi0+Z6LEfL2KTSRi/J7BR5nlZi8esJf4fWj79MdVPq1IC83z+1eOV9wHLmoL0HkRJCJSBN4whZnrJTM49tvYiCQR3KpXwZ5kASZ/EBfL2g9BhUfuN4ZWXjyFdjcuW7/Xy7Jx8X0hS+PMTrUd7VxHi4YW6U=|tkp:Bk9SR9CM7YSqZw

Toolfan66 · April 2

And they are pricey..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/385553832118?_skw=hickok+tester+539&itmmeta=01KN8541CMAMFRGXBKYSCG5P8Q&hash=item59c4cc98b6:g:S3wAAOSwZnlkPaqe&itmprp=enc:AQALAAAA8GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCc67GCAH9958VC7S5CI9e0T/6HO4SAt/XldJMbdTfwa+Zie9JKgpAUVn1z9aLW+IlKoTqitEP2vGuuDk09ZFdDjBnsOR93MhuzDsfqyGtdtPK7sJI9recTpZfKe5xQhWEGhxdbDr3noSUpMuuXiAcmuGTZIS2tYtltFRHCQhjIwNmxn/M7eDDztRN+jrj5HyYebIO/Unudfzavrx3hbinD1IT9k5g7qNNRzjSnsRews+U1qq+UoPJ3FIjTLOFenHg+cbzdAkOu9ilWml5SZvNYWOOy/X7lO4jsPt/swF1f7g==|tkp:Bk9SR7yWkIWqZw

pitdogg2 · April 2

Toolfan66 wrote: »

F1nut wrote: »

The Hickok 539 or 750/752 series are some of the best. A tube can go bad at any moment, just the way it is.

Old thread I know, but I have been on the lookout for a tube tester for some time, but just scares me to put out the coin, and not really knowing what I am buying. Don’t want a headache purchase..

I have passed up many over the last few years..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/267623937728?_skw=hickok+tester+752&epid=1203549523&itmmeta=01KN84V8RYMH6XCB4EPXVZZ54E&hash=item3e4fa136c0:g:8d4AAeSwUxBpyc78&itmprp=enc:AQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xAIznRGd91lZGF40RAU3zur3PjulpJ7b/nfhv8yZ4NEOONVvsQlg3nIYpnisdjdAesPYD0dPiOS8ukTTjT4qnV7SZm7U+mtJeOAb32NMZi0+Z6LEfL2KTSRi/J7BR5nlZi8esJf4fWj79MdVPq1IC83z+1eOV9wHLmoL0HkRJCJSBN4whZnrJTM49tvYiCQR3KpXwZ5kASZ/EBfL2g9BhUfuN4ZWXjyFdjcuW7/Xy7Jx8X0hS+PMTrUd7VxHi4YW6U=|tkp:Bk9SR9CM7YSqZw

This seller is trustworthy! I've bought a ton of tubes from him.

Honestly if you're going go to deep get a triplett 3444. The only tube tester that tests at the correct voltage and tube parameters. Triplett tests tubes at the same voltage that they will be getting in the circuit they are designed for.
None of the Hickok testers sustain the test at the correct tube circuit voltage. They do a decent job. The two hickoks you linked are the best of the Hickoks out of all the Hickok testers.
The biggest down fall is they rely on rectifier vacuum tubes, usually two different ones. If one of those goes bad you have to have the tester recalibrated after you put in new tubes.

invalid · April 2

The rectifier tube that does the heavy lifting in those Hickock testers is the 83 mercury rectifier, it's a durable tube in most applications except for the testers that use them, because they are technically supposed to have a warm up period with filament only which the Hickock doesn't do. It's also supposed to be mounted vertical, some tube testers mount it horizontal.

skrol · April 3

skrol wrote: »

I can't talk my dad out of his Hickok 600a. He still uses it occasionally to service his test equipment and ham radio.

I can't believe my father gave it away.... for free along with his caddy of tubes. :'( With my grandparent's old Philco 37-650, fathers 37-60 and a Macintosh MC-40 in my collection now, I really could use it.

pitdogg2 · April 3

That sucks!

SCompRacer · April 4

Sometimes you find the common 9 pin socket worn out. You have to constantly wiggle the tube to test it. It's no fun replacing the sockets on some testers.

If the socket is marginal, tighten them up one last time and insert a socket saver.

A tube pin straightener for the common tubes tested will help keep tube sockets from getting stressed out of shape from bent ones. You would probably make them yourself.

heiney9 · April 5

One of the downsides running tubes (especially power tubes) is that moment of possible catastrophic break down. I've seen it happen a couple times with my brother's BAT VK60's. Took out some other parts.

Just part of the "allure" of tubes. Pay attention and never leave tube gear with power tubes alone for long. I caught one of my SED =C= 6L6GC starting to go. Caught it before it red plated. It started to smell and was in the middle of thermal runaway. Had I been out of the room, I probably wouldn't have caught it.

Most of my gear uses signal tubes and rectifiers. I've managed to get along without a tube tester and I've got about 300 tubes. It might be time for me to look into one. I fear getting a shoddy unit and not being able to keep up with the maintenance.

Tube wisdom of the day - BTW, no one asked, but I just have to say if anyone's gear uses a 5AR4/GZ34 rectifier.....there is NO contest. Mullard f31 smooth edged plate, fat bottle and f32 - 5 notch edged plate w/dual 0 getters is by far..........by far the best PERIOD. The smooth edge being a big more euphoric and lush and rounder, the 5 notch having a huge 3D sound stage and tighter, more controlled lower end.

Sorry, had to get that out. Spent the past few weeks swapping and evaluating (GZ34's) in a new piece of gear for the office rig. The difference and dominance of the Old Stock Mullard is quite impressive. I've known this for a long time, but this just reiterates.

H9

pitdogg2 · April 5

Never underestimate the lowly Sylvania fat bottle. Mullard or Sylvania is all I run. Both of my preamps came with Russian 5ar4 equivalent, one a Sovtek, they other Tung Sol. Both were in the suck an egg column.

invalid · April 5

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Never underestimate the lowly Sylvania fat bottle. Mullard or Sylvania is all I run. Both of my preamps came with Russian 5ar4 equivalent, one a Sovtek, they other Tung Sol. Both were in the suck an egg column.

I'm glad I don't have to use mainstream rectifier tubes.

pitdogg2 · April 5

Me too, more for me and @heiney9

😉😆

Toolfan66 · April 6

I have a few Mullard’s, and Sylvania’s.

heiney9 · April 6

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Never underestimate the lowly Sylvania fat bottle. Mullard or Sylvania is all I run. Both of my preamps came with Russian 5ar4 equivalent, one a Sovtek, they other Tung Sol. Both were in the suck an egg column.

I also have a Genelax Golden Lion here, came with the new toy I'm playing with. It's marginally better than the Current Production Mullard.

Nowhere close to the 1965 Mullard f32. Music with the current production rectifiers sounds like a card board cut out. With the OS 1965 Mullard, sounds very 3D and life like. I can hear every nuance, the recording studio space, the decay of cymbals, the size of the recording space, leading edge "attack" of a plucked acoustic guitar. Mids and vocals soar and sound natural.............quite an amazing difference.

H9

heiney9 · April 6

Toolfan66 wrote: »

I have a few Mullard’s, and Sylvania’s.

I think I sold you one of my spare Mullards.................which btw, I recently had to rebuy....lol.

H9

heiney9 · April 6

pitdogg2 wrote: »

Never underestimate the lowly Sylvania fat bottle. Mullard or Sylvania is all I run. Both of my preamps came with Russian 5ar4 equivalent, one a Sovtek, they other Tung Sol. Both were in the suck an egg column.

What year/construction Sylvania?

Mullards are just about priced out for me since this is my secondary rig. I was able to find a strong Mullard somewhat reasonably priced, but I had to hunt for a bit. I can't believe some of the asking prices. $250-350 for a used f32 mid 60's - 5 notch, double O getter Mullard. They seem to be plentiful, 7 pages on Ebay although 20-25% were Japanese made, not always disclosed as so.

It'd be nice to have an alternative that's almost as good in the Sylvania. It is a true 5AR4? I see some 5R4 Sylvania's. Never researched them all that much since Mullard is the king. Many American branded tubes are Mullards.

H9

I have a 1958 Mullard f31 GZ34, but it's a bit too thick and slightly bloated for the system I'm running. The 1965 f32 - 5 notch is, tighter, has a wider sound stage and more linear midrange.

pitdogg2 · April 6

All the fat bottle Sylvania 5ar4's look like this. I've seen them with RCA, Philips labels as well, ALL were made by Sylvania. I do find those that have a thicker black base a bit better, not enough to worry about for me.
Yep I chuckled they other day when you were going on about the smooth plate Mullards. A $500+ rectifier is NOT in my budget now or ever. A year or so ago I lucked into a very nice 1956 Valvo labeled Mullard with the 5 cut plates for $140. Decent Mullards are still out there at a reasonable price BUT they are getting fewer and fewer. Prices have jumped 35%-70% in the last two years. In my discussions with others it is my understanding that the 5AR4 was the last rectifier to come to market and had the least amount of production numbers than the rectifiers that came before it. So there is that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116963329703?

When you get a tube tester, that has been refreshed and calibrated do not be shocked when you start testing your tubes and find more than a few are near death.
Actually I'm shocked that with as many tubes you have bought a good quality tester was NOT something you thought you needed.

heiney9 · April 6

At some of the prices I've paid for my tubes (years ago) if one was a dud or only lasted a year or so, that was fine. I knew I was buying 30-50 year old glass bottles and I thought it was "the price of being into OS tubes". Now, the prices are quite high and I'd be a lot more angry if I got a dud.

I have been lucky as I think 90% of the tubes I bought were above adequate. I've had a few noisy ones pop up these days. I tend to have 3-4 pairs of my favorites. So, if one goes, I've a replacement. Although the spendier ones like Mullard or Amprex long plates and some Brimar black plates I only have 2 pairs of.

I just never took the jump for a tester because I didn't know anything about them, thought they were finicky to use and maintain. And frankly I've had very issues with the tubes I own. If I look in my dead box, I see maybe 6-7 signal tubes that are weak and noisy.

I do have a pair of 90's SED =C= 6L6GC's I think one or both are bad, started to red plate on me (not really sure if it was one or both). It would be nice to get those tested. Don't want to put them back in.

I just paid $110 shipped for a 1965 f32 B5G5 - 5 notch, double O getter Mullard. No label but etched codes in tact. Construction is 100% correct.

There's a plethora of 60's and 7 notch 70's Mullard 5AR4 because they were used in every Dynaco and knock off amp made back then. Count in the organs and guitar amps of that era and that's a lot gear.

They are virtually indestructible and seem to run forever.

heiney9 · April 6

RIch @SCompRacer sold me 3 Mullard GZ34 about 18 years ago. I had a Nohr EL34 amp that needed a GZ34 rectifier. I forget what I paid, it wasn't as much as today (I maybe gave $125 for all 3). IIRC, it was the 1958 f31 I have now, a mid 60's 5 notch and 70's 7 notch. I sold the Nohr with the 7 notch and sold someone here the mid 60's 5 notch and kept the '58 smooth edge in my "never sell" box. Didn't need a GZ34 until very recently. Then I replaced the 5 notch, these will stay in my "never sell box"

H9

tonyp063 · April 6

In addition to the Sylvainia fat bottles, the GE coated copper plate 5AR4s are quite nice & very robust.
Robust enough that my Dynaco ST-70 hasn't killed one. They don't cost silly money either.

The deals are still out there, to a degree. Bought a pair of 7 notch Mullards (f32 b13e) tubes last year for the princely sum of $130 the pair.
RadioShack "Realistic Lifetime Tube" rebranded

invalid · April 6

tonyp063 wrote: »

In addition to the Sylvainia fat bottles, the GE coated copper plate 5AR4s are quite nice & very robust.
Robust enough that my Dynaco ST-70 hasn't killed one. They don't cost silly money either.

The deals are still out there, to a degree. Bought a pair of 7 notch Mullards (f32 b13e) tubes last year for the princely sum of $130 the pair.
RadioShack "Realistic Lifetime Tube" rebranded

I'll take a pair of 866a or 3b22 tubes at $15 a piece any day over the price of these mainstream rectifier tubes, of course I could run 300b tubes as rectifiers.

Tube tester?

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