My subwoofer PSW125 does not power up
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Jimmi328
Posts: 2
My subwoofer PSW125 worked well for a few years, then no use for a few months, and now it will not power up. I checked the fuse and it was blown. The inscription on the original fuse (hard to read) is "1.6AL 250VP". I'm assuming this means 1.6 AMPS and 250 Volts. The closest two fuses I was able to find locally has an inscription that states "1A 250 V" and "2A 250 V". I tried both and the power indicator light did not come on. I hooked up my subwoofer anyway to my computer but no sound.
I considered replacing the circuit panel in the back of the subwoofer. I called Polk; this panel would cost me $150. Still, I could not be sure if this circuit panel is the problem.
Any suggestions please?
I considered replacing the circuit panel in the back of the subwoofer. I called Polk; this panel would cost me $150. Still, I could not be sure if this circuit panel is the problem.
Any suggestions please?
Comments
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In all likelihood the problem is the bass amplifier. When you replaced the fuse did it blow again? The only other component is the woofer itself and you could test it by completely removing the bass amplifier and disconnect the red and black wires that run to the woofer at the amplifier. Then at a very low volume try touching a pair of speaker wires to the red/black wires to the woofer. The woofer should produce sound when powered directly from your amp.
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The fuse I put in there "did not" blow again. When you say "bass amplifier", is this what I referred to as the "circuit panel"?
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Yes, the amplifier that powers the woofer.
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Or, a commonly used term for it would be the plate amp...
BTW, you can use the 1A fuse but I do NOT recommend using the 2A fuse. Bad juju can happen if you do and that fuse may render catastrophic and irreparable damage to the plate amp. You can always order a 1.6A/250v fuse online for chump change.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
The fuse I put in there "did not" blow again. When you say "bass amplifier", is this what I referred to as the "circuit panel"?
It’s not worth repairing, sorry. Unless you are going to replace the driver and the plate amp. Parts express is a good place to look. These should fit with a little missing and be a huge improvement:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-250-Watt-Subwoofer-Amplifier-300-803?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdiTBhD5ARIsAIpW8CKAUbnZjQoPpeGyiaZHjalhJ5Au0LH261iMBSaLKFlMfjUFZY5hQvEaAtkiEALw_wcB
And if you want to replace the driver while your at it:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-RSS315HO-4-12-Reference-Series-HO-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-295-466?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdiTBhD5ARIsAIpW8CJ-HUtSseIlkf6uPCSkRg0roLC6Ed1gzDKiIkZh6NY__bA7hHrd-XAaApTjEALw_wcB
Or at that point just save your pennies for this:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=42843&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdiTBhD5ARIsAIpW8CLtSK6jPQdSbUIjh20ry5M72jsDt0FbGuvxnZZm7HqemdFfMc8y_uMaAkh5EALw_wcB
Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
