[Monitor 10A] What is this crossover part?

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shellshox345
shellshox345 Posts: 2
in Vintage Speakers
Hello all. I'm about to proceed with a x-over upgrade on my Monitor 10As. I'm clear on everything except I have no idea what this large "spool" of wound copper wire is. Should I just reattach it when I finish installing the other components?

My current plan is to replace the caps, resistors, and binding posts, are there any other upgrades I should do "while I'm in there?"

Thanks in advance!


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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
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    That is the large inductor (coil) for the Midwoofer drivers. If you don't re-attach you're not going to like the way they sound :)
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,856
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    What do you mean reattach it?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • shellshox345
    shellshox345 Posts: 2
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    F1nut wrote: »
    What do you mean reattach it?

    I was assuming I'd have to disconnect it to get under the PCB while I'm working on it
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  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,204
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    shellshox345 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    What do you mean reattach it?

    I was assuming I'd have to disconnect it to get under the PCB while I'm working on it

    It is best to desolder the wire and re-attach when you are done with the XO work. I tried the other way and it just ended up stressing the wire and the solder joint, which had to be re-flowed, and it made the work more difficult.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,856
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    shellshox345 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    What do you mean reattach it?

    I was assuming I'd have to disconnect it to get under the PCB while I'm working on it

    Got ya. Just desolder the connection on the board. Do not cut the wire and do not unwrap it.

    Pinch the tops of the 4 standoffs with needlenose pliers one at a time to remove the board from them. Be careful with the standoffs as they can be a bit fragile.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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