Installing Tweeter in Monitor 5jr

The SL2000/RDO-194 are both the same size bezels and are about 12% larger than the SL1000 and also the mounting hole spacings are a bit off. You will have to either route out the cabinets a bit larger or you can sand down the bezels evenly as needed all around on the RDO replacement. A benchtop belt sander or disc sander would be ideal. A scribe or a large needle for a makeshift tool would be ideal for marking the black plastic bezel for where to sand to. The corners will have less radius than you need and you may need to round them to fit the cutouts in the cabinet. Another tool that could be used would be a dremel tool with a drum sander attachment. Just not as good really.
Best to remove the plate from the dome/magnet assy I would say, carefully, to avoid damage. You will also have to fill the holes with wood putty or JBWeld or the like and redrill them in the correct locations. Might be a good idea to do Hurricane Nuts at that time since you are going to all the trouble. The thread "Tale of 5 Tweeters" has the bezel dimensions. I don't think he gave the terminal sizes. Easy enough to wait until you receive them and measure. Sometimes a smaller gauge Faston connector than the gauge of the wire will actually fit. Crimp to the bare twisted copper and then backfill with just a little solder.

The proper way to do it is to route out the cabinet a bit larger. Even better would be billet aluminum adapter bezels but I don't know if xschop on other forum is making those. My concern with cutting down the plastic bezel would be that you may entirely lose the lip around the perimeter, especially at the top and bottom. You could put washers at screw locations first to bring them up flush and fill the bezel with JB Weld or the like, prior to sanding the edges to the new size.

What is the production date of your speakers? Would be on the MW drivers and/or the crossovers. I am beginning to suspect more and more that when Polk went from the Peerless to the SL1000 in some of the monitor series speakers, they may have made no other changes. If so, it should be a no-brainer to go back to Peerless. Gotta verify that though, which may be tough.

The correct size female Faston/Quick Connect is .110.
Original internal wiring should be #16 gauge copper or tinned copper.

In my 7B's the MW wires were 19awg (16 strands, 0.009" ea.) and the tweeter wires were 20awg (16 strands, 0.008" ea.). Doubt yours would be larger gage unless they made the wires much larger in 1984 vs 1979. It would be a good idea to replace the tweeter wires with something better while you're at it. I used 15.5awg Cardas Litz. Most people use a solder pot to work with those wires. My Peerless tweeter fastons were 7/64" (0,109") but that doesn't really help you but westmassguy gave you that anyway.

PS: If you want to look into the billet aluminum tweeter bezels for the RDO-194, talk to xschop over at audiomilitia.proboards.com. I think he could cut down some billet ones for you and then all you would have to do is fill the holes and redrill in correct locations, in the particle board. It is possible you might be able to work something even better out with him because I know he wanted to do CNC adapter bezels at some point but his CNC may be in need of repair still.

Necesito un tweeter SL 2000 para mis cajas monitor 5 jr. Si alguien lo tiene me gustaría contactar o indicarme dónde lo puedo conseguir. Vivo en Madrid-España.