Frozen pipes upstairs

So...I left the outdoor faucets dripping and of course the pool pump running so everything downstairs is fine. But the upstairs is getting water in one bathroom but not in the master or the laundry room (which ironically is pretty close to the bathroom that is getting water). We are very fortunate in that we still have power and water, but I really don’t want to deal with busted pipes. Any thoughts on how to deal with this?
Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Crown XLS 1002 amp; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology SM450; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor350; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
Master Bedroom
Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology promonitor 800; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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Comments

  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,597
    edited February 17
    I’m catching up from yesterday. Rooftop seems to be in better shape today than yesterday. Sorry if my info was bunk. :(

    Joey’s Emm DAC has a frozen waterline that leads to his Pre. A little music should thaw that.

    And MSG is a wonderful person. ;)

    I’ll tell you this, in my world, if there is a hint of a leak, you cut drywall. If 1 pipe let’s go and you flood out 1...2...5 newly finished apartment units below/adjacent, your repair bill goes from $200 for tape and mud to $100,000+ pretty quick. It happens more often than you think. Plumbers on production jobs miss gluing a fitting all the time, or a dry Waller uses a pipe as a step ladder.
    Post edited by mrbiron on
    “If your eyes didn’t water, it means I didn’t go deep enough” says the nurse administering my COVID19 test. She was sweet...
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 1,576
    For the fellows that have turned off the water supply to their hot water heaters; make sure you turn off the power to the heater as well so you don't burn up the heating elements. Best of luck to you all in getting your lives back to normal.
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 2,929
    It may be a good idea for Texans who lost power and have had any signs of frozen pipes indoors to turn their water off at the street. Once the outdoor temperature goes back above freezing later this week the pipe ruptures will start to show up.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,250
    I would think a main shut off at house entrance would suffice. Well unless codes and things are different in Texas.
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,597
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I would think a main shut off at house entrance would suffice. Well unless codes and things are different in Texas.

    I would bet the farm that water isn’t > 4’ down to get below frost levels...
    “If your eyes didn’t water, it means I didn’t go deep enough” says the nurse administering my COVID19 test. She was sweet...
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,136
    Most Texas homes are on a slab. The water shutoff is normally out front between the sidewalk and curb. The pipes are normally less than 18" underground.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,250
    mrbiron wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I would think a main shut off at house entrance would suffice. Well unless codes and things are different in Texas.

    I would bet the farm that water isn’t > 4’ down to get below frost levels...

    Gotcha makes more sense now.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 18,250
    sucks2beme wrote: »
    The water shutoff is normally out front between the sidewalk and curb. The pipes are normally less than 18" underground.

    That's were ours is as well, but 48" deep. You would need water co or plumber to shut off as it is a special tool. also found out the hard way up here if it hasn't been shut off and say 30 years it ain't shutting off they're digging that hole and putting a new fixture in for it.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 9,639
    msg wrote: »
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Couldn’t the pipe still freeze if only a drip, or two, was all that was ‘flowing’?
    Yeah, Bud, it can freeze unless it's a fast steady drip. A slow drip doesn't work.

    Like @audioluvr mentions above, 3-5/sec. or faster.

    Just strange to me that cold lines are okay, but not the hot? Are those different pipe materials?

    We had a stretch of sub-freezing temps here a while back and my sink trap froze. Kitchen sink is on an exterior wall. Had to leave the sink cabinet open with a fan and space heater nearby.

    Now that is COLD. Did you loose heat in the house for a while?
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • Jazzhead
    Jazzhead Posts: 150
    If it stays cold for a while and the cold starts to penetrate deeper in the ground, you might want to stuff some fiberglass above the meter/shutoff at the street. Up here in Idaho everything is buried pretty deep underground, but the meter access can still freeze with prolonged sub-zero. I pile feet of snow on ours when I shovel to insulate it from sub-zero temps. All the old timers around here swear that the hot water will freeze before the cold... Keep it dripping and good luck.
    Polk Audio original RTA-12s w/ 12 inch Polk Stands; DHS Speaker Service upgraded crossovers w/ Sonicap/Mills; comb filtering mod (hyperdamped outer drivers/mirror imaged); tweeter diffraction mod; Cardas silver-rhodium binding posts; Neotech UPOCC internal wire; Sonic Barrier 3-layer; Dynamat Xtreme
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    Dedicated 20A/10 AWG circuit; Furutech GTX-D (G) outlet; Furutech eTP80; Shunyata Research Venom Defender; Synergistic Research Orange fuses
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 9,639
    edited February 17
    tratliff wrote: »
    I got water back this morning. Like a lot of others my cold is working but not a drop from the hot side. The other day when I lost water I was told to turn off the water heater. So I’m sure that with it being in the garage I have some frozen pipes in that line.

    The saga continues. I’ve had enough of this and ready to get back to normal!

    I'm so bummed to hear of so many members having these frozen pipes. It's a feeling I equate to like waiting for the cops to show up at your door at any moment. Not that I know, because I don't but I can imagine it.

    Our water lines here in Wilm. NC. are just a foot deep outside. That was the code back then. :# I was lucky the last hard freeze 20+ years ago but hundreds experienced the same nightmare that hits others. Our neighbor 2 doors down has had his PEX split a few times over the past 10 years on some of the very cold with high windy nights. I just thought about the copper pipe I used when I replumbed 95% of my home's plumbing and also added a bunch since I added a bathroom and moved the washing machine to another room.

    I learned from my Plumber boss, Copper pipe comes in two thicknesses. L & M I believe.
    I spent the extra and used the thick tubing for anything I did.
    I wouldn't have known there's a "good" and "a lot better" if I hadn't worked for that plumbing Co..

    I'm thinking about you all and hoping for the best.

    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,136
    Turning off the water in Texas isn't very hard. And they sell a tool to do it.
    You can do it with a socket and breaker bar.
    Here in Metro Memphis much the same.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,181
    Glad you got them thawed out without any damage.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,104
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Glad you got them thawed out without any damage.

    My wife has all kinds of co workers sending pics of downtown businesses with busted pipes and flooding, including magnolia table. And we have several friends and neighbors with frozen pools. This is seriously crazy...
    Living Room 2.1: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Crown XLS 1002 amp; Musical Fidelity A308; NAD M51 DAC; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology SM450; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology StudioMonitor350; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology promonitor 800; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 7,751
    Space heater to areas near the problem spots.

    Got all of them back today.

    Yess!!!

    I was beginning to worry that I would have to divert audio funds to fixing leaks... fingers crossed it all continues well!
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Primary:
    Digital: Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x
    Analog: VPI Avenger Reference w/ Rim Drive w/ ADS + 12" Fatboy Dual Pivot + Lyra Etna
    + Audio Research Reference 40th Anniversary -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Secondary:
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Tertiary:
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ARC Ref 40th Anniversary
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • tratliff
    tratliff Posts: 1,155
    Joey_V wrote: »

    I was beginning to worry that I would have to divert audio funds to fixing leaks... fingers crossed it all continues well!

    Never, the two funds don’t know about each other!!!
    2 Channel
    Legacy Focus SE, 2 REL Carbon Limited, McIntosh C50, McIntosh MC601's, VPI Prime w/SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC, Parasound Halo JC3, Denon DP-59l w/Ortofon 2m Bronze, Marantz SA-14s1, Oppo BDP-105, Technics RS-1500, Furman Elite 15PFi, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Interconnects, Douglas Connection (Furutech) Alpha Speaker Cables, Pangea Power Cables
  • jeremymarcinko
    jeremymarcinko Posts: 3,686
    edited February 18
    JSYK leaving a faucet drip doesn’t really protect against freezing pipes. The idea is that the pipe can freeze without building up enough hydraulic pressure to burst the pipe. The drip allows the the increased hydraulic pressure to escape. Leaving multiple faucets on both sides of the freezing condition would be most effective to prevent bursting. The caveat is leaving too many faucets open causes the water to freeze faster. The higher the pressure the less susceptible the water is to freezing but only by a few degrees. So by lowering the waterline pressure the pipes will freeze slightly faster, but it will be less likely to burst a pipe.

    I should add that if the faucets are left open enough where the rate of the warmer incoming water can keep the keep the pipe from falling to freezing temps than sure leaving the line open can prevent freezing. However the number of drops per minute would depend many variables, ambient temp, air speed-draft, water temp from the main, pressure, area of line exposed to freezing temperatures etc. However, I feel like a steady drip in many cases wouldn’t create enough flow of warm water to effectively prevent a freezing situation.

    In theory an entire community leaving faucets open may create a lower pressure situation on the mains and provoke a mass waterline freezing situation. Not to mention any leaking/broken main that might cause low pressure or air in the line.
    Post edited by jeremymarcinko on
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 7,751
    Either way, leaving a faucet running is better than not.
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Primary:
    Digital: Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x
    Analog: VPI Avenger Reference w/ Rim Drive w/ ADS + 12" Fatboy Dual Pivot + Lyra Etna
    + Audio Research Reference 40th Anniversary -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Secondary:
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Tertiary:
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ARC Ref 40th Anniversary
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 7,751
    tratliff wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »

    I was beginning to worry that I would have to divert audio funds to fixing leaks... fingers crossed it all continues well!

    Never, the two funds don’t know about each other!!!

    They all intertwine!!

    New tonearm... or pipes?
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Primary:
    Digital: Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x
    Analog: VPI Avenger Reference w/ Rim Drive w/ ADS + 12" Fatboy Dual Pivot + Lyra Etna
    + Audio Research Reference 40th Anniversary -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Secondary:
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Tertiary:
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ARC Ref 40th Anniversary
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • Rick88
    Rick88 Posts: 13,558
    edited February 18
    Hope you Texans (and everyone else) are hanging in there!

    I saw this photo online yesterday. Crazy!!

    knehdvqksatl.jpeg
    "Life is one grand, sweet song, so start the music." ~ Ronald Reagan

    “I love songs about horses, railroads, land, Judgment Day, family, hard times, whiskey, courtship, marriage, adultery, separation, murder, war, prison, rambling, damnation, home, salvation, death, pride, humor, piety, rebellion, patriotism, larceny, determination, tragedy, rowdiness, heartbreak and love. And Mother. And God.” ~ Johnny Cash





  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 11,558
    A friend mine in Dallas area suburb-
    Neighbor across the street had a pair of water heaters in the attic that froze, leaked, the leaks froze and both water heaters came crashing through the ceiling

    :#:#:#
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,181
    edited February 18
    It's funny how construction varies from state to state.
    JSYK leaving a faucet drip doesn’t really protect against freezing pipes. The idea is that the pipe can freeze without building up enough hydraulic pressure to burst the pipe. The drip allows the the increased hydraulic pressure to escape. Leaving multiple faucets on both sides of the freezing condition would be most effective to prevent bursting. The caveat is leaving too many faucets open causes the water to freeze faster. The higher the pressure the less susceptible the water is to freezing but only by a few degrees. So by lowering the waterline pressure the pipes will freeze slightly faster, but it will be less likely to burst a pipe.

    I should add that if the faucets are left open enough where the rate of the warmer incoming water can keep the keep the pipe from falling to freezing temps than sure leaving the line open can prevent freezing. However the number of drops per minute would depend many variables, ambient temp, air speed-draft, water temp from the main, pressure, area of line exposed to freezing temperatures etc. However, I feel like a steady drip in many cases wouldn’t create enough flow of warm water to effectively prevent a freezing situation.

    In theory an entire community leaving faucets open may create a lower pressure situation on the mains and provoke a mass waterline freezing situation. Not to mention any leaking/broken main that might cause low pressure or air in the line.

    I'm sorry but nothing here is even close to truth. I grew up in Minnesota and we would snowmobile on the rivers in winter. The shallow rapids would always be open even when the ambient temperature was -20+ F. I often camp in the mountains where wind chill can reach 20 below and I've never had my pipes freeze in my 5th wheel if l leave my faucets /shower running at a trickle.
    Post edited by audioluvr on
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    Polk SDA 1C's modded
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

    by Dr. Sardonicus
  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,597
    edited February 18
    audioluvr wrote: »
    It's funny how construction varies from state to state.

    Kind of like having ceiling fans installed in common apartment corridors?

    Just hope nobody was standing under that spinning death when the power came back on. :D
    “If your eyes didn’t water, it means I didn’t go deep enough” says the nurse administering my COVID19 test. She was sweet...
  • Joey_V
    Joey_V Posts: 7,751
    The construction here is so subpar
    I have learned from mistakes on this build.
    If I build a next house, I’m going to centralize the pex water pipe system and invest in upgraded pex piping.

    Need something like this to allow easy shutting off of systems within the house rather than just shutting the main line when there’s a leak.

    pmj7gf4kpb0i.jpeg

    I’m gonna have a generator also.

    I’m not gonna get caught with my plaid shorts down on the next one.

    Or I’ll just move to Tampa.
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Primary:
    Digital: Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs TSDx/Bluesound Node 2 -> Emm Labs DAC2x
    Analog: VPI Avenger Reference w/ Rim Drive w/ ADS + 12" Fatboy Dual Pivot + Lyra Etna
    + Audio Research Reference 40th Anniversary -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers + JL Audio F113v2 x2
    Secondary:
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Tertiary:
    Oppo 105D -> Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2


    Main speakers system evolution over the years:
    Klipsch Promedia 4.1 -> Axiom M22ti -> Sonus Faber Concertino -> Sonus Faber Concerto -> Polk LSi7 -> Polk LSi9 -> Martin Logan Mosaic -> AV123 Onix Ref 1 -> Martin Logan Vantage -> AV123 Strata Mini -> Martin Logan Summit -> Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor -> BW 802D2 -> Sonus Faber Stradivari -> Rockport Avior -> BW 802D3 -> BW 800D3 -> ???

    Old Gear:
    Speakers:
    BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source:
    Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification:
    Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased) -> ARC 5se -> ARC Ref 40th Anniversary
    Amplification:
    HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer:
    Infinity Entra2 -> SVS 25-31PCi -> SVS 25-31PC+ -> Dual JL Audio F113v2
  • audioluvr wrote: »
    It's funny how construction varies from state to state.
    JSYK leaving a faucet drip doesn’t really protect against freezing pipes. The idea is that the pipe can freeze without building up enough hydraulic pressure to burst the pipe. The drip allows the the increased hydraulic pressure to escape. Leaving multiple faucets on both sides of the freezing condition would be most effective to prevent bursting. The caveat is leaving too many faucets open causes the water to freeze faster. The higher the pressure the less susceptible the water is to freezing but only by a few degrees. So by lowering the waterline pressure the pipes will freeze slightly faster, but it will be less likely to burst a pipe.

    I should add that if the faucets are left open enough where the rate of the warmer incoming water can keep the keep the pipe from falling to freezing temps than sure leaving the line open can prevent freezing. However the number of drops per minute would depend many variables, ambient temp, air speed-draft, water temp from the main, pressure, area of line exposed to freezing temperatures etc. However, I feel like a steady drip in many cases wouldn’t create enough flow of warm water to effectively prevent a freezing situation.

    In theory an entire community leaving faucets open may create a lower pressure situation on the mains and provoke a mass waterline freezing situation. Not to mention any leaking/broken main that might cause low pressure or air in the line.

    I'm sorry but nothing here is even close to truth. I grew up in Minnesota and we would snowmobile on the rivers in winter. The shallow rapids would always be open even when the ambient temperature was -20+ F. I often camp in the mountains where wind chill can reach 20 below and I've never had my pipes freeze in my 5th wheel if l leave my faucets /shower running at a trickle.

    That’s not the same situation. The shallow rapids consists of the warmer moving water from under the frozen river surface.

    Believe it or not even moving water freezes. Ever seen an icicle?
    Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 3,181
    Again. You are making no sense.
    Cambridge Audio 851N Streamer/DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Belles 350A Reference modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
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    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January.

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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 24,385
    Those distribution systems are a nightmare, atleast round these parts. When we see them pop up, it's almost an automatic replumb.

    Either way, the best investment I have ever made is a Flo by moen device. 24/7 water monitoring... Auto shut off with unusual activity and can shut off anywhere in the world with a wifi connection

    - Not Tom

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 11,558
    VR3 wrote: »
    Those distribution systems are a nightmare, atleast round these parts. When we see them pop up, it's almost an automatic replumb.

    Either way, the best investment I have ever made is a Flo by moen device. 24/7 water monitoring... Auto shut off with unusual activity and can shut off anywhere in the world with a wifi connection

    So Trey, you don't like those pex manifolds?
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
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