What are Larry’s rings?
djreef
Posts: 72
I’ve seen them mentioned a few times in posts but have no idea what they do. All the links to more info have been taken down (404’d). I picked up a pair of 1.2 TLs that need a little tlc, so I’m exploring different avenues. Thanx ahead.
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Comments
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They're a more secure way to hold the drivers against the baffle. Unfortunately they are no longer being made so you'll have to look into something else like hurricane nuts I believe they're called.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Larry's ringI’ve seen them mentioned a few times in posts but have no idea what they do. All the links to more info have been taken down (404’d). I picked up a pair of 1.2 TLs that need a little tlc, so I’m exploring different avenues. Thanx ahead.
Seriously though, a simple search brings many threads to read through.
This one should explain everything you need.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2186767/#Comment_2186767
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Thanx! That’s what I thought they were.
All my searches and the links embedded in the searches that did produce something were dead ends.
DJ= 8-->{I> -
They're a more secure way to hold the drivers against the baffle. Unfortunately they are no longer being made so you'll have to look into something else like hurricane nuts I believe they're called.
How would hurricane nuts be secured without destroying the driver inset? I guess they’d have to be pretty small.
DJ
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With both the rings and hurricane nuts the holes in the cabinet have to be made larger to fit the inserts. It's a one way trip! Both methods also insert from the inside of the cabinet and then the drivers are bolted in place. As long as the hurricane nuts are not deeper than the depth of the wood there would be no problem fitting them other than tightening a bolt too much and deforming the driver basket.
Check Partsexpress for different hurricane nut sizes.
Polk used small inserts (not hurricane nuts) and bolts in their big speakers originally but when they switched to more mdf construction they just directly screwed drivers into the cabinets. The drivers would come loose over time and leak air and eventually after being retightened would strip the screw holes out. -
Ya, oddly enough only 2 holes are stripped out of all of them. Thanx.= 8-->{I>
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When installing hurricane nuts use a matching cap screw with a washer to slowly draw the nut in. Do not over torque when installing. Many apply a dab of 5 minute epoxy around the barrel of the nut as each one is installed being careful to not get any into the threads.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
When installing hurricane nuts use a matching cap screw with a washer to slowly draw the nut in. Do not over torque when installing. Many apply a dab of 5 minute epoxy around the barrel of the nut as each one is installed being careful to not get any into the threads.
I know this is a few years old, but I had a question. I was thinking about doing a dab of epoxy, so seeing that recommendation is reassuring. What are your thoughts about using a C clamp to press the hurricane nuts into each hole? -
As long as it goes in straight it shouldn't be an issue.
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I think I have a handful of rings in my garage, Driver Rings, Tweeter Brkts, but I think I only have 15in Passive Rings.
Maybe I will see what I have, and what I can put together, and do a karma, if there is interest in them. they are powder coated..
Fingers Crossed.. -
sevastra27 wrote: »When installing hurricane nuts use a matching cap screw with a washer to slowly draw the nut in. Do not over torque when installing. Many apply a dab of 5 minute epoxy around the barrel of the nut as each one is installed being careful to not get any into the threads.
I know this is a few years old, but I had a question. I was thinking about doing a dab of epoxy, so seeing that recommendation is reassuring. What are your thoughts about using a C clamp to press the hurricane nuts into each hole?
Best to do as described, which allows the nut to naturally twist into the hole. I can see a number of possible C- clamp disasters.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Best to do as described, which allows the nut to naturally twist into the hole. I can see a number of possible C- clamp disasters.
C-Clamp Disasters is one of my favorite bands!
Jay
SDA 2BTL * McCormack DNA 0.5 amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
If you go the C-clamp route be sure to arrange things so that the pad on the end of the threaded rod is against the hurricane nut flange.
The ability of the pad to swivel will allow the nut to turn as it twists its way into the pre-drilled hole.
