Monitor 4 crossover help re veneering with wood?

JTW3303
JTW3303 Posts: 8
edited January 13 in Vintage Speakers
Long time lurker, and recently joined the forum, thanks in advance for all the advice I lurkingly learned!
SO decided to start updating my collection of speakers I have collected in a hoarding fashion. Decided to basically do a full update on the smallest set(monitor 4 with the peerless tweeters). In the process of removing the vinyl veneer (planning on putting a hickory wood veneer). Any advice on wood veneering is always appreciated!
It seems I have the weird crossover, that generally have me confused. The cap is a 5.8 cap, and have a sonicap to replace it will, but should I just cut out the old one and just move on? Or is there something I am missing to be able to get down to the bottom lead?
Thanks again in advance and thanks for all the advice you all have posted in the past!! Its been a great resource!!!

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Post edited by JTW3303 on

Comments

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 1,817
    If you aren't replacing the binding posts or associated ring terminals and wires at this time, I'd just cut that lead from the ring terminal, leaving enough for a twist and solder joint or a crimp sleeve backfilled with solder.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, all std. mods (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    Ok, was planning on just cutting the old one out and soldering a new one in, but this now brings up a good point. I was using these speakers as my learning curve, before jumping into the speakers I love, does it make sense to upgrade the posts on these, also understanding there is a point of diminishing returns(plus from my memory these are unique to the Polk crossovers and probably wont see these again)
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 1,817
    What will you learn if you don't? I upgraded all the wiring and binding posts in my 7B and it was very much worth it, sound quality wise and experience wise. But only you can really decide.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, all std. mods (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    Totally agree!! And definitely have looked at you 7b project several times! I have a pair that will be getting the treatment soon, just wanted to get some practice in veneering and see if soldering is like riding a bike!
    Appreciate all the advice, do you know if everything is held in via glue and the soldered leads?
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 1,817
    edited January 13
    You will probably find gobs of hot melt around the leads coming from the fuse block if your XO has an external fuse. There was some black brittle thread locking compound on the binding post nut and I had ring terminals which were crimped to the return and supply wires with a small amount of hot melt around the binding posts but nothing compared to the fuse block leads where they come through the plastic of the XO cup. There will be 2 nuts on each binding post with the ring terminals in between. I'd avoid trying to remove that hot melt glue on the inductor because of the danger of nicking the enameling on the wires and causing a short.

    That hickory veneer should look pretty nice. Flat "sawn" or quarter sawn?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, all std. mods (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • I recapped my 4's with a clarity cap. Took some time to to burn in.
    I veneered my 4's with cherry... https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/193145/my-monitor-4s-veneer-project#latest
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,608
    To remove the original hot glue apply denatured alcohol generously with Q-tips or whatever on and around the edges of the glue. After 5 or 10 minutes you can peel it completely off. Works like a dream.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    wispolkboy, those look amazing!! Did you end up cutting and making the front ribbon or did you find some prep cut ribbon(not sure which way to go), any tips on pre drilling the emblem holes, luckily I was able to remove both of mine without any breaking!!!....also would you do the same method of laying the veneer again....seems like there are several ways and just wanted to know your opinion!
  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    F1nut Thanks!! Appreciate that tip.....once everything is replaced, is there the need to go hog wild on the glue once I am putting it all back together?
  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    Gardenstater I hope the hickory will look good! I am thinking of just a light sanding and lacquering once its finished.. As far as the "sawn" I believe its plain.....currently its under some books to lay flat.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 45,608
    JTW3303 wrote: »
    F1nut Thanks!! Appreciate that tip.....once everything is replaced, is there the need to go hog wild on the glue once I am putting it all back together?

    You definitely need to secure the components.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Thanks JTW.
    For the front face, I cut a strip of the veneer and let it overlap the edges by about 3/8sc and trimmed after. I did dry fit all the face first. And I started the veneer process with the face of the speakers.
    I have another set of 4s that I am thinking of doing but with PSA type of veneer, also known as peel n stick. My thoughts of using psa is that if any glue gets on the face of the wood it is hard to clean off and not a lot of wood there to sand it away. As for contact Cement, there isn't any forgiveness.
    Can't wait to see them in hickory, that was one of my top choices.
  • As far as the hole for the badge, I just measured the exact location a hoped for the best... One of my badges broke, the pin part so I just used some automotive trim tape.
  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    wispolkboy wrote: »
    Thanks JTW.
    For the front face, I cut a strip of the veneer and let it overlap the edges by about 3/8sc and trimmed after. I did dry fit all the face first. And I started the veneer process with the face of the speakers.
    I have another set of 4s that I am thinking of doing but with PSA type of veneer, also known as peel n stick. My thoughts of using psa is that if any glue gets on the face of the wood it is hard to clean off and not a lot of wood there to sand it away. As for contact Cement, there isn't any forgiveness.
    Can't wait to see them in hickory, that was one of my top choices.

    Thanks for the advice!! haha and I am glad I asked, not sure where in my head the fronts would be the last step!! Again sorry for the potentially dumb question, but did you just use a straight edge to cut the veneer(I am worried about chipping the veneer) or do have a "veneer cutter"
    This being my first attempt at veneering I wanted to stay away from the Peel n stick....buddy who has some experience in veneering was telling me its much less forgiving then the cement, and better for the steady handed experienced ones!
  • I cut the strips from the sheet of veneer with a straight edge. I cut the veneer from the speakers with a stiff (because it will not wander with the grain as a flexible one would) utility knife by laying it on the newly glued side and had a scrap piece of lumber under it. I did by a veneer cutter for $50 and was a total waste of money...
    No stupid questions here... I did the front first because I would have it covered by the speaker's grill and I will be viewing the sides more.
  • JTW3303
    JTW3303 Posts: 8
    Just a quick update......veneer is on and trimmed, some time this week I will be sanding them down and putting a sanding sealer/lacquer combo on. Wanting to go for as raw wood look as possible.
    Also decided to not mess with the binding posts on these, so in a drunken state, I decided to attempt soldering again from a long hiatus but got the new sonicaps in, not the best looking job, but just the right amount of liquid courage in the moment really helped (drunk GF was some encouragement, sorta)!!
    Thanks all for the advice here on this thread, and all the threads here, there is a wealth of information on this site!

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  • I'm anxious to see them all finished... How do they sound... I used a clarity cap... And still run them a couple of hours a day, I don't think that they are completely burned in yet. I did find that they sound better after an hour or so each time....
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