SDA-1C Right Channel No SDA Effect

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  • PolksTillIDie
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    By the way, one of the right/left speaker tests I did was with Stereophile's first test CD, the one with the dog barking coming from right/left.

    "BAAAA-OOOO-WOOOOF!"

    Maybe this should be a euphemism for a right-left test on SDA speakers: "the dog's in the speakers" or "the dog's outside the speakers". :)
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Gardenstater, I didn't think of it as really loose before. Maybe its loosened up over the last few cycles of disconnect/connecting. Mostly I thought of the other one as too tight. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get the plug out of that one.

    But man, its working now... B)

    Spongebob, what are the advantages of the Speakons over the regular Polk plug? Before your suggestion, I was wondering about shielding vs. unshielded (OEM) and the wire gauge used. I got a huge volume/power boost switching over my speaker wire to high strand count 10AWG OFC from older, low strand count ones. So I'm wondering why I shouldn't complete the circle, by using that larger gauge wire with the interconnect too.
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • Gardenstater
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    Glad it's working out for you now! I definitely think you should upgrade the wire in the IC cable for sure. Not to beat a dead horse but I remember in your other threads we had this discussion about multi strand cables not being gaged by their outer diameters. You have to measure the diameter of each strand and calculate the cross sectional area and then multiply that by the number of strands and look up the gage in a chart. So what you think is 10awg is really probably 13.2awg. It's still a very large gage. It's because there is air space in a multi stranded wire bundle.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Gardenstater, checked for free voicecoil movement definitely, they're all moving free. DCR, that's checking them out with an ohmmeter? Haven't gotten around to that yet, but yeah, why not? Probably check 'em when I send out the crossovers in Jan.

    DeOxit and SilClear? Why not? My "wooden" input contacts on my M-80 could also use that help I bet.

    My buzzing/resonating tweeter is back. I think it never left and only occurs at one pitch in one track in a Max Richter album. The note holds for a few seconds, and the buzzing edges in, hitting a whole bunch of frequencies between 4 to 5kHz. Its a new Polk OEM from Midwest, so I might just ask them what they want to do about it. Haven't tried the untighten/retighten method yet. I'll do that before I email Midwest.
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • Gardenstater
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    Yeah I would definitely check the back of the tweeter plate for flatness, especially under the screw bosses. You might need to put thin spacer washers in to make everything flat. Also you should consider xschops suggestion somewhere else to put some dynamat or the like in the hollows of the back of the tweeter plate to dampen any resonances. Make sure you tighten all the screws evenly in a cross pattern and try to keep from warping the plate with uneven screw tensions.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Gardenstater, oh yeah the "Great Wire Gauge Discussion of 2020". :D I remember it as if it were just yesterday. I'll have to ask RapcoHorizon about the individual strand diameter. But I guess my real question is: ideally should I go with the same gauge/wire that I'm using for my speaker wire?
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • PolksTillIDie
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    OK, Gardenstater, I'll take those tweeter suggestions and see what I can do. So far, it only happens with that one track out of all my CDs, but you know it'll reappear somewhere else eventually.

    Just some incredible SDA I've been getting tonight off Radio Paradise. Really wrapping around me. <3
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
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    When some sounds come from far outside of your speakers, your SDA's are working just fine.

    Congrats!

    Now do as @Gardenstater suggested...Your new tweeter face-plate screw holes probably don't have support behind them. There's threads about that somewhere on this forum's history.

    Some have noticed that noise also. Some were cured by the washers being glued on and one said it helped a little but he was going to call customer service about that noise at that one area of frequencies that just wouldn't quit bugging him..

    I know I glued washers onto the backside of a few new tweeters I ordered. I did it before I even put them in. It is the thing to do.

    Mine were the new RD-0194s.

    Again, congrats.

    Now check out the SDA playlist on this forum. You might have many of the songs and music to re-listen to.

    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,184
    edited December 2020
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    I bet 4 of @xschop billet aluminum tweeter bezels would be the cure (hint) ;)

    The great 2020 wire gage shootout he he I like that. Memories. :D

    If they call it 10awg then it better be! That other one you were talking about previously gave the strand size and number of strands and it sure wasn't 10awg. Gotta keep em honest though and check. I find discrepancies often.

    They don't even specify OFC or 4N. I believe that's the minimum for hi fi. Your speakers deserve better definitely.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Gardenstater. Ok, I just sent off an email to Rapco Horizon asking about the strand diameter. I guess we'll find out. ;)

    But I just got some estimates and options back from David at DHS Speaker that set my mouth to watering. So many upgrades I can do piecemeal as I scrounge up the $$$. They have two premium IC cables that are 10 and 11 AWG, so that renders the practical reason for my question moot on that anyway I guess. I'll end up with one of them.

    There's also an apparent no-brainer replacement inductor coil that supposedly improves bass, but renders the speakers 4 ohm. He cautioned some amps won't be able to handle that. I think my M-80 can, ah ... handle that with no problem. B) Driving only 4 ohms, an M-80 goes up to 330W and THD down to no more than 0.002% !! Anyone heard of this upgrade?

    I'll look over the possible crossover upgrade combinations and ask for you guy's input.

    I think it was someone from Midwest who suggested I un-tighten, then re-tighten the tweeter faceplate screws. Easy enough, but anything I oughta check while I have them off? Probably ought to do the same for the other screws on the problem tweeter too just in case I didn't tighten them evenly.
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
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    I suggest you read the 2nd post above yours.

    There's proven diagnostics by many here on the forum and a 99% cure to your tweeter problems.

    loosen the screws...

    glue washers on...

    What-ever.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Didn't realize the resulting conclusion was that settled. So #10 stainless steel washer? Got a glue preference?
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
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    Didn't realize the resulting conclusion was that settled. So #10 stainless steel washer? Got a glue preference?


    Yup. #10 I believe.

    Aleene's craft glue;

    xg1hj37bgx97.png
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Ok ordered the glue. Now more on washers. 1/2 inch OD do the trick?
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Hmmm... looks like I read those specs on the M-80 wrong. Its 0.02% THD at 330w. That would have to be some great improvement in bass response for me to add that much distortion back in. Anyone have an opinion? (me: ducking and cringing) :D
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,434
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    I wouldn't worry so much about distortion specs. It's what sounds good to you that matters most.
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,277
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    Hmmm... looks like I read those specs on the M-80 wrong. Its 0.02% THD at 330w. That would have to be some great improvement in bass response for me to add that much distortion back in. Anyone have an opinion? (me: ducking and cringing) :D

    You really think you can hear 0.02% distortion.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
    edited December 2020
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    Ok ordered the glue. Now more on washers. 1/2 inch OD do the trick?

    I don't remember.

    I literally have a hardware store's worth of stuff here. I might've just gone to my washer hoard OR took another's advice and went and bought some. I'm going to look back into this forum's history on this matter.

    How about #10 standard size...
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • PolksTillIDie
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    I think #10 specifies the inner hole dimension. So the outer dimension has to be specified separately. So I didn't wanna glue on the wrong size and get "stuck" with something to big to fit back on. Or, you know, I could actually use my eyes and estimate. But I'm ordering them online because I'm really lazy and I'd rather not buy a bunch I won't use.

    I found a post "RD-0194 Rattles" with these two images along in the thread:

    This one supposedly shows part of the voice coil abutting the magnet. The poster thought this was the problem:

    eru9t6jifthw.jpg

    versus a "normal" position:

    4syz77pukmf3.jpg

    And then this one shows the washers in place. I guess I could just measure them off this pic.

    e0etauudcv3d.jpg


    This is why I didn't necessarily think this was settled. Several posters said the washers didn't make a difference. Guess it couldn't hurt.

    OK. Ordered them. Didn't even have to stand up and go get 'em. It was close though. :D
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • PolksTillIDie
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    audioluvr and invalid: As I think I stated waaaaaay earlier, or maybe on another post, I can hear, I know THD at 1% and above with my various ... dare I say it ? ... "test tones", and not below, but this is kind of an artificial construct for comparison, no? That's at the standard 1kHz. You can look at other frequencies, like 125Hz or any other. And they may be higher. But one thing just effing amazing about, at least my M-80, is the incredibly low noise floor and distortion. You can listen to something like a jazz quartet playing quietly and yet turned up, there is just nothing in the way of background noise, hiss, or anything "between the notes" ...... nothing. B)

    And I ain't gonna mess that up for bass that my neighbors might have me killed for. :D At least, not yet. So I'll wait on that, however tempting... >:)
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • PolksTillIDie
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    Merry Christmas guys. Thanks for all the help. :)
    Polk SDA-1Cs with RD0194-1 upgrade tweeters, SoniCaps, Clarity PX, Gimpod boards, Cardas BPs, Erse inductors, Canare 4S11 IC; Yamaha Aventage RX-A1080; Yamaha M-80; Yamaha C-80; Yamaha CD-S1000; Sony UBP-X800M2; Technics SL-1400 with Ortofon 2M Bronze PnP; Vincent Pho 701; PS Audio Dectet; AudioQuest Red River ICs; WAudio PCs; RapcoHorizon High Def High 413-Strand 10AWG Speaker Cable; Auralex Isolation Pads
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
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    Merry Christmas.

    rikvoq7vpu27.png
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,017
    edited December 2020
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    This is a great example of why washers should be placed behind the tweeter's face-plate holes.

    sfywdp2xeng5.png
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.