Monitor 7 project!

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Hello,
I have been lurking here for years. The information is wonderful. Thanks to all who take time helping newbies like me.

I have a couple pairs of Monitor 7bs. After many, many years of wanting to address the XO's I bought two 7c crossovers from eBay and had them re-worked recently. I bought the extra XOs so I wouldn't have a pair of speakers down during the crossover rebuild. I plan on redoing the original 7b crossovers soon. I hope to do them myself this time. I will need some help then I am sure.

I bought this pair of 7s off eBay about 20 years ago. I had already snagged a couple pairs of 10s a few years earlier thinking the 10s were the way to go. I still remember when my stepfather bought home a brand new pair of 10s in 1978 and a Sherwood Receiver. I was amazed at the sound and couldn't wait to get my own one day. I bought the 7s for my fish room because the size of the 10s were too large for the space. I didn't expect the 7s to sound better than the 10s but I always thought they did. Much better I might add. I told my stepfather shortly after getting the first pair of 7s I thought he bought the wrong speakers in 79. He still has his 10s, by the way, and unlike me with my stuff he takes care of his and these still look new today.

I am going to attempt to post some pictures of my project and I welcome any advice/criticism.

I wanted the pictures to show the sound damping material the way it was when these were made.

I also wanted to note how I snugged up the hurricane nuts using another hurricane nut. I used the #8 hurricane nut from parts warehouse and a 13/64 drill bit.

Dynamat was used, the first two speakers turned out quite sloppy. I had to trim the dynamat from the radiator's basket down by the flange on the first one I did as I had it too close to the gasket and it wouldn't fit in the speaker hole with the dynamat this far down on the frame. It was not easy to get off after pressing it to the cage.

I used all new gaskets on all speakers and crossovers to insure they were sealed well.

I used loctite powergrab on the drivers. I should have done this last month as much to my surprise one of the drivers had locked up. I just checked it a few weeks ago and it was fine. I am glad I had a few spare MW-6502's laying around.

As far as the tweeters I broke a terminal on one of the original peerless tweeters last winter trying to de-solder the wire, so I replaced them with two from mid-west. As far as the replacements from mid-west...I placed these next to my other 7bs with the peerless tweeter, I stacked them right side up then I inverted the top pair to get the tweeters next to each other. I listened long and hard to these two pairs trying to compare the sound of the new with the old. I couldn't tell a difference with my 56 year old ears. I did replace the mid-west tweeters with a couple peerless I picked up of eBay a few weeks ago just to be authentic. However these didn't come from a pair of polks, as some of you probably noticed, because there is no hole in the dome.

I finished these yesterday. The entire project took about 8-9 hours, but I think I could do it in 6 now that I have done a pair. I listened all night to these and the sound is much better than before of course. I am happy, I just wish my wife was!

Thanks,


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Comments

  • theebisonman
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    I forget to post the completed pictures.wxgej86wgded.jpg
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  • Gardenstater
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    Nice work and it's very rewarding. I found it to be so. Just so I understand, you have 2 pairs of 7B's both with silver basket MW6500's and Peerless Tweeters and in one of them you swapped the crossover out for a 7C crossover and you now have MW6502's and Peerless Tweeter in that one? If so, I don't believe that the Peerless Tweeter was ever used in the 7C and was probably the SL2000. MW6502 and MW6500 have different nominal impedances (4 Ohms vs 8 Ohms) and other Thiele Small Paramters, but apparently they did in fact go with the MW6502 in the 7C.

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/133992/thiele-small-parameters-for-mw6500-drivers

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-amp-more-all-models-except-sda#latest

    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • theebisonman
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    Thanks for your time and advice it is most welcomed. I will try to be clear, which is hard for me they say. Both my 7s are 7bs. They both had/have the peerless tweeters and the mw-6502s drivers. The radiators they came with are the ones with the large damper. I dropped my speaker cover and the corner put a hole in one of the original radiators so I went to my parts closet and found two radiators with the small damper which I used for a couple weeks. I remembered the other day I had a spare m10 in the garage for parts with a good radiator. I have been curious if there is a difference in sound between the two damper sizes?

    Now I am worried about the 7c crossovers I just had rebuilt in Michigan. I will call the fellow and see if he wired this for 4 ohm drivers or 8 ohms drivers.

    I bet in one of my pictures there is a mw-6500 I just removed from the spare m10. I was curious which driver it had so I took it out.

    I just called the man who did the crossover and he assured me it was wired for a 4 ohm driver. I trust him. I never heard of the JFX stuff he used but I searched it and JFX seems to have great reviews. Any thoughts here?

    Thanks again for bringing this to my attention as it sounds like problems would have occurred if it was wired for the 8 ohm set up?
  • Gardenstater
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    Well I am pretty darn sure that the 7B only came with the Peerless Tweeter and the MW6500 midwoofer. I don't know if they ever shipped them with different Passive Radiators but I doubt it. I think that the earlier 7's at one point had a smaller Passive Radiator, but that's beside the point. I don't think MW6502's are the proper speaker for your 7B's, especially with the date I am seeing on the crossover, which looks like the exact same crossover as I have in my 1979 7B's that came with silver basket MW6500 and Peerless Tweeters. It has a 1amp fast blow fuse, 4.5 Ohm 5W resistor, 12uF Mylar Capacitor, .23mH Inductor and 2.7 Ohm 5W resistor in the high pass (tweeter) section. For the low pass (MW6500) section there is a 34uF Electrolytic Capacitor and a 1.55mH Inductor.

    However, MW6502's are the proper midwoofer driver if you are going with a 7C crossover BUT you shouldn't have a Peerless Tweeter, you should have a SL2000, which is usually replaced by RDO-194's for a much improved upgrade. If I understand you correctly, this is only a temporary setup though until you can upgrade all of your original 7B crossovers?

    Phew lol. This is the crossover in the 7C. Compare the values to what you have in your temporary setup. I am not familiar with the JFX capacitor line but I'm curious and will look it up. Why didn't you get another pair of 7B crossovers? Not sure why you went with 7C's when you have 7B's.

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    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • theebisonman
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    Thanks for your reply. As far as I know all 7bs came out with the 4 ohm MW-6502. Heck I thought all 7s had the mw-6502. Both pairs of 7b here came with the MW-6502. The MW-6500 was put in the early Monitor 10s, at least in the few pairs I have.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,182
    edited November 2020
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    I don't know if it is an optical illusion but it DOES NOT look like the right capacitor in your 7C crossover. I see one 12uF which, if it is on the tweeter circuit, is correct, but the other one should be a 34uF, which is a big boy and around as big in dia. as that 12uF is in length.

    https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/jb-jfx-series-polypropylene-capacitors.html

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    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • theebisonman
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    Thanks for the charts. I am a carpenter and do not understand the crossover components so I have been relying on these schematics. I believe these are the schematics for the 3 types of M-7 each showing the MW-6502.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,182
    edited November 2020
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    Nope. We don't have the schematics for the Monitor 7, 7A, or 7B. I don't know why. What are the dates on your crossovers (originals!) and what are the serial #'s on your "7B's"? I see the 8/1979 date on the one crossover which firmly plants that in 7B timeframe. I am the original owner of these 1979 7B's serial 19XXX and they came with silver basket MW6500 and Peerless tweeters. At some point in later models they did switch to MW6502 as you see in those later schematics. Check the dates.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • theebisonman
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    Sir the schematics for the 7s 10s 5s and more are on the vintage speaker section right next to the schematics for all the SDA speaker. They are easy to find, one of the first posts on the vintage speaker page. That is where I got the Monitor 7 schematics I posted a little bit ago.
  • theebisonman
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    Not to be disrespectful, but you are confused when it comes to what driver the 7s use.
  • theebisonman
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    One other thing I want to point out. Both of the MW-6502's I pulled from the 7s have a 1979 date, as you pointed out the same date as the crossovers. The speakers in this post had never been messed with until I got them 20 years ago.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,182
    edited November 2020
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    Again check the dates on your crossovers THEN check the dates on those schematic drawings. You will find that those schematics are only from late 1984 and later, which are the Model 7C's and M7 Series II. Again, we DO NOT have the earlier schematics for earlier versions of Model 7's. Do you have trust issues? Trying to help you here. It's all good though. I know what it's like to be stuck in a mindset. Don't ask me how I know lol.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • theebisonman
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    Again, you are mistaken. If you look at each of the three schematics I posted two have the external fuse. This means pre 84 speakers. Again I don't mean to be disrespectful, however bad information will steer others in the wrong direction. My intention on this post was to steer others in the right direction by addressing issues I had questions about before I started. Someone else chime in here please!
  • theebisonman
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    From this forum!

    DISCLAIMER: I have begun work on the schematic archive for all Polk Audio speakers. I have every known schematic from Polk although, when additional ones turn up, they will be added to the respective area.

    If you have any questions or comments, dorokusai@verizon.net

    Here are the SDA schematics per our friendly neighborhood Darque Knight.

    You can download a FREE copy of Adobe Acrobat 7.0 here.

    I hope that this saves Ken, Kim, Helen & Eric a little time in the future. They have better things to do than photocopy schematics and mail them to a bunch of Polkies.

    The schematics are listed by MODEL SERIES(e.g. Monitor, SDA, LSi, etc.) If it's an older, vintage series, with a current model in production(e.g. the Monitor series...) they are identified individually as: Current and Vintage.

    When you find a listing for a speaker like yours, for example the RTA12A and all you find is the schematic for the RTA12B...that's the only one that is available. Most of the time very little changes occur and even so, this will help you determine exactly what you need. If you have any specific model questions, simply contact Polk Customer Service @ 800.377.7655 or polkcs@polkaudio.com