Need a DSL modem/router

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muncybob
muncybob Posts: 2,970
in The Clubhouse
It seems we go through one pf these things every 18 months or so. Currently have a CenturyLink and it does a decent job accessing the internet and wireless streaming to the TV. Lately I'm having to reset it just about every day which from past history tells me it's on the way out.

Sure would like to find one that can give us a few years use for less than $100.
Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub.
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  • CGTIII
    CGTIII Posts: 1,027
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    If it has an external power supply you might try changing just that first.
    Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

    Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
    Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
    Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
    ​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,185
    edited June 2020
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    Personally, I prefer a separate router and modem. A good router should last for many years and it is much more configurable than what you get from your ISP (CenturyLink?) DSL modems are sometimes locked to the provider, but I'm sure if you go out and do some Googling, you will figure out what is possible with your ISP.
    A quick search found this:
    https://www.centurylink.com/home/help/internet/modems-and-routers/compatible-modems.html

    Looking at that list, it seems most of the compatible modems are all-in-one with routers. There is one (Zyzel Q100) that is a stand alone modem, but it seems to be out of stock or unavailable.

    I have Comcast and I've been using a Linksys/Cisco DOCSIS3.0 modem since around 2015 with no issues. I bought a replacement around 2016 to keep in the closet, but I haven't needed it. My router has been up and running since around the same time with no issues.

    For a wireless router, I've had good luck with the offerings from Asus. I usually stay away from their latest and greatest (fastest) models. Most of the time, they have a model that a few years old, which is proven and gone through a few minor revisions (like the RT-AC68u). Those are the ones to get.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
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  • CGTIII
    CGTIII Posts: 1,027
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    All routers that aren't provided by your ISP should be updated at least once a year with the latest firmware. It improves resistance to attacks, which have increased dramatically. If you're using an approved all-in-one modem/router, firmware will be managed for you by the ISP.
    Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.

    Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
    Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
    Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
    ​Thompson Adventures, Inc.
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,973
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    Well this isn’t much help, but I use Motorola surfboard cable routers with google mesh WiFi system and it’s awesome! Just like audio, I would definitely go separates if you can...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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